goofy springalicious antichop autococker bolts

[AssassN]

I was wondering where to get those autococker bolts with a spring that prevents chopping?

[CpSuPeRkId]

warped sportz in Merrilville, IN has them. i dont rememebr how much though.

[AssassN]

ne websites have them?

thansk for telling me but i dont live close enuf to go get one.

[TRIAD]

https://www.apbbolts.com

I have a pre-2k one for sale, check my sig, pm if interested.

[AssassN]

Thanks very much!

[big E kingpin]

do those actually work, my buddy has one, andhasnt used it yet, it seems that the spring is awfully stiff, to actually pinch.

[TRIAD]

yes, they work, i heard about the fact that there may be a problem at high rof, because the spring will allow the bolt to fly back beyond the full open position, and thus has to play "catch up". However, it worked great for me, and yes, they will pinch, i've done it a coupla times, and i put my finger in there. only problem is the bolts are a little long, but they work great.

[milf350]

if you put a light main spring in, and lower your cocking pressure you don't have to worry about that bolt. I've managed to get my bolt to stop several times on evil paint ... pretty good if you ask me, and you don't have to worry about the bolt having to catch up either.

[AssassN]

thanks for all the info guys... i really appreciate it.

[Kevmaster]

i dont see what a mainspring would have to do with chopping(since the main spring has no contat/effect on the bolt)

however, setting your LPR right should eliminate 95% of chops...even with a stock autococker

[SlartyBartFast]

But while changing the air pressure to the ram will decrease or eliminate the possibility of chops it also has the undesirable effect of lowering the bolt cycle speed.

That is why the spring bolts were devised. To get a high ROF and be softer on paint.

[314159]

Originally posted by milf350
if you put a light main spring in, and lower your cocking pressure you don't have to worry about that bolt. I've managed to get my bolt to stop several times on evil paint ... pretty good if you ask me, and you don't have to worry about the bolt having to catch up either.

you can't lower the spring tension too much, or other wise that equal and opisite reaction is going to blow the bolt tip back while there is still pressure in the barrel, and launch the paintballs in your feedneck up into your hopper.

[milf350]

Originally posted by kevmaster
i dont see what a mainspring would have to do with chopping(since the main spring has no contat/effect on the bolt)

however, setting your LPR right should eliminate 95% of chops...even with a stock autococker

Yes, your right setting your LPR right will eliminate most if not all chops. But you need a lighter main spring in order to lower the LPR. Think about it a standard cocker LPR is set at I beleive 85 psi and they do chop. The older FreeFlows had the LPR set at 40 psi, the reason they were able to do this is because of a lighter main spring. The LPR regulates the pressure that the ram uses to push the bolt/hammer/backblock back, now with a lighter spring in it, it will require less pressure in the ram to push it back, also lessening the pressure when it comes back, which in turn lessens the chance of a chop.

Originally posted by SlartyBartFast
But while changing the air pressure to the ram will decrease or eliminate the possibility of chops it also has the undesirable effect of lowering the bolt cycle speed.

That is why the spring bolts were devised. To get a high ROF and be softer on paint.

That is also why Ethan at Professional Paintball developed the Tungsten Carbide hammer, it was made specifically for the purpose of being able to have a lower cocking pressure and still keep the marker firing at 20+ BPS.

Originally posted by 314159
you can't lower the spring tension too much, or other wise that equal and opisite reaction is going to blow the bolt tip back while there is still pressure in the barrel, and launch the paintballs in your feedneck up into your hopper

That actually isn't correct, unlike the spyder the bolt and hammer aren't connected. The hammer in the cocker moves independently of the bolt so no matter how light the spring is the bolt won't be affected. Like I said in the above quote, the LPR controls the bolt so no matter how the the main spring is, it's the pressure in the ram that is closing the bolt (unlike in the spyder where the main spring closes it). And just as an example, with a gassed up cocker (try it even after lowering the LPR a little) try pulling the bolt back with out pulling the trigger, all the air pressure in the back of the ram makes it virtually impossible to pull it back with out blowing one of the hoses off the 4-way.

I hope this cleared things up a little bit, if any of this was unclear LMK and I'll try to clarify my statements more.
~Brian

[Butterfingers]

I dont think I've ever seen any cocker firing at 20 bps not even the half block raceguns.

The heavy tungsten hammer is more reciprocating mass and with the low cocking pressure of a free flow 20 BPS is probably a physycal impossibility. Normal cockers with high pressure rams running without hammers have trouble hitting 20 bps.

The tungsten hammer was designed for the purpose of lowering the cocking pressure down to the point where there is little chance of chopping a ball.

[*ArKfEaR*]

heh... or you can just use a nickel plated z-cut lightning bolt by aka and get the right pneumatic setup, and a couple others things and never chop ever ever ever.