who would be interested in NiMH battery packs for warps?

[hitech]

Originally posted by Thordic
I tried using a 9.6V 1600 mAh battery pack in my warp, and Pyro has tried it to.

Both of us fried our rectifiers.

I assume you are talking about rectifiers in your warp. Unless there is a design flaw with the warp, using 9.6 volts shouldn't hurt anything (as you know, it's rate to 12 volts) and 1600 mAh wouldn't either. It has a higher current potential, but how much current it draws is up to the warp. I would say that something had to be wrong with your warp. Unless it was somehow hooked up wrong (not much chance of that). Otherwise it just doesn't make sense.

[sniper1rfa]

yeah, that makes no sense. mine seems fine, ive played two full days with it, and it shows no signs of majick smoke (though i DID fry my guns board. but that was my fault...). current draw is up to the components, not the battery. the battery can only limit current draw, not increase it. also, i used to run 18 volts into it without a hitch...

hostage: though the one i made is wires an e-tape, i have shrink wrap on they way, and am using cells with welded tabs, and the 9V snaps will be integral to the battery, and will be strain relieved on both ends of the leads. quality control shouldnt be a problem.

i refuse to try to make one that will FIT in a rev though, unless its a nine volt revvy. An 18 volt would be no better than the 9V's your using now, or maybe even worse.

[sniper1rfa]

well, mine was running strong till today (the warp spins up faster, and just plain spins faster). of course, i forgot about it and put it on for three cycles on my cheapo 9v battery charger (instead of two), and blew it up. nickel metal hydride smells BAD. :-)

but anyway, i have the heat shrink and tabs for about 15 batteries, and cells and charger for a battery on the way.

anyway, i was VERY impressed with my old battery, the setup lasted for a long time, even though i had charged the cells in the beginning of september, and not again until today.


I will update this thread when i get the new pack made with the components i will be using on the ones I sell.




(The battery popping was MY FAULT, BTW, i was using a totally improper charger, and made a mistake doing it.

the board problem ended up being a short through solenoid two's transistor. though related to the batt, it wasnt CAUSED by the batt)

[hardr0ck68]

could you set up my hyperframe/warp/halo (if not halo how about rico?) all off one pack that i could recharge on gun? with some kind of assurance i wouldent be needing to replace $100+ in electronics in a month, (or years for that matter)?? thanks!!

[sniper1rfa]

hmmmm. i can do the warp and gun off one pack, but i think adding the HALO would overdraw the batteries, possibly damaging them. it wouldnt last too long, either.
BUT, what i could do is split the pack up. make a AAA pack in the warp, and wire it in parallel with a AA pack in the halo. this would split up the draw between the two packs, be chargeable from one spot, and last a REALLY long time. i could also just do the AA pack in the HALO. itd be expensive though, like 80-100 bucks.

PM me if your interested.

[sniper1rfa]

bah, anybody think im overcharging (or worse, undercharging?). its going to cost me almost precisely 20 for the cells and shipping, im absorbing the cost of heat shrink, 9V snaps, and tabs, and the charger is 18.00 (so 23 or so shipped).

hrm, methinks im undercharging something awful.


so we will do it this way. who is willing to pay what?



*EDIT*, im starting to think like 60 or around there is reasonable. i was kinda hoping i wouldnt have to charge too much, bummer.

[hostage]

Having to many devices might draw more amps than the battery can dish out. I'll ask some EE buds what they think about running a lot of things off one battery. BTW where did you get the shrink wrap?
-Doron

[sniper1rfa]

the way i figure it is, these cells are good for about 7 amps. the warp draws 3 and ill give 1 to the solenoid in the hyperframe. assuming the halo took two, it would really be pushing the battery. thats why i said i would do both the warp pack and one in the halo, both batteries working together would take the hit nicely.

im running my gun and warp off the battery, so i know thats isnt a problem.

im getting the cells and shrinkwrap from dynamo electrics (www.dynamoelectrics.com)
cells: HR-AAAU http://www.dynamoelectrics.com/Batteries.htm

shrinkwrap is the 90 mm: http://www.dynamoelectrics.com/Supplies.htm

im getting the charger from airsoftextreme.com (accessories>batteries>5 hour quick charger)

[hostage]

I got some AAA cells at 1.2v nimhs for pretty cheap on ebsy. I use the p.6v battery chargers for the race cars and the conectors, they had a clearence 1 buck for each charger, I have about 5 extra 5 or 7 hour charges.
They also have shutoff and can charge both 9.6v nimh and nicads.
-Doron

[sniper1rfa]

really? nice...

how much you want for them?

the ones im getting are pretty much the same thing, but can do 7.2V-9.6V

i never even thought of ebay...

[hitech]

For anyone who is interested here is my 9.6 volt battery pack mounted on my marker. It runs my hyperframe, warp and revy. It sits between the flatline and the warp. The flatline has been removed for clarity.

[BarryTolar]

I'm working on a Lion/Poly setup for myself

Barry

[RamboPreacher]

The NiMh setup that I got from sniper1rfa:

[RamboPreacher]

and installed:

[RamboPreacher]

closer up: