GZ Timmy + Equalizer + Roller Trigger METHOD + Stock grooved Trigger = 20 CPS

[Jack & Coke]

Originally posted by manike
Jack is walking a trigger in the spirit of the rules? What about doing it with say 3 fingers?

IMHO... "spirit of the rules"? NO.

Originally posted by manike

...Yeah I have some triggers designed to help you do this...

Oh yeah! I forgot about that one... you talkin' about this trigger?



(http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...nd+up+and+down)

What ever happen to that trigger?

[Jack & Coke]

Update - review

WOW!

I just installed the Wicked Switch.

http://www.wickedairsportz.com/products/equalizer.htm#BM10

At first glance, it looks like the same exact switch as the stock one which came with my gun... except for a couple of differences. This switch appears to be from the same manufacture... the only visible difference is the model number inked on the switch.

The switch is noticeably softer to activate. :tup:

I installed the Wicked Switch normally. It worked great. However, I could still feel the "click" of the button. I wanted to reduce the feeling of the click as much as possible.

I ended up installing the Wicked Switch Upside down - trigger set-screw contacting the mid portion of the leaf - as oppossed to the trigger set screw sitting directly over the "button".

This made the switch even lighter due to the leverage advantage of the leaf.

Now, if I did not have a trigger return spring installed, the speed and distance of the trigger return would depend only on the inverted Wicked Switch.. which is not enough! The effective return pressure is too short (contributes to bounce) and not quick enough to reset for super fast finger action.

The solution was to use a trigger return spring. However, as we know, the stock trigger return spring is too stiff. Most Timmy users end up just removing it anyways.

What I did was to pick up a special soft trigger return spring from http://www.centuryspring.com/ (their LA warehouse is a few blocks from my work.

They have ANY spring you need! Millions...

Anyways, I tested out a few samples of varying strength.

They were .36 #/in, .59#/in, and .75 #/in...

I liked the .36 #/in spring the best... although the .59#/in spring was also a good choice.

In the end I choose the lighter spring, since I could always adjust the spring tension to stronger by using the set-screw... whereas I would not be able to make the .59#/in spring any softer by the same method.

What I have now is a soft yet quick return trigger with a comfortable and safe amount of trigger travel. NO BOUNCE WHOOPEE!! My Equalizer de-bounce is at 3 ms... so far so good

I don't know if its just me, but I am able to walk my fingers on the trigger better(maintaining a more consistant rhythm) if the trigger travel is around 1 - 1.25 mm as opposed to as small as possible... (i.e. 0.25 or less)

WHEW!

Oh yeah... my GZ rips EVEN easier than it did in my first post of this thread!

Muhahahaha!!!!! :P :P :P

EDIT: (Correction: in the attached photo, the force of the spring should be in #/in not #/ft.... ma bad )

[boomerfoxtrot]

Jack..

I own a GZ... and am looking for the best way to soften the pull.... could I take the stock micro switch and flip it? I've also though about playing with it in other ways to come up with a good quick soft pull... Thanks for the advice on what your doing...

also, what are the "part numbers" on the lightest spring your using? so I can call and get some....

[Jack & Coke]

Originally posted by boomerfoxtrot
Jack..

I own a GZ... and am looking for the best way to soften the pull.... could I take the stock micro switch and flip it?

Yes!

But keep in mind that the original reason for orientating the switch, where it's button sits directly under the trigger set-screw, was to minimize the occurance of trigger bounce caused by any flex or resonance in the leaf of the switch. This idea was considered a factor which, IMHO may or may not, contributed to trigger bounce when the triggers were dialed in for minimum travel and maximum sensitivity (i.e. bump the air tank and the trigger fires).

However, with the creation of the Equalizer and it's "debounce" feature (trigger scan delay), any such unwanted trigger bounce can be dialed out.

Originally posted by boomerfoxtrot
...also, what are the "part numbers" on the lightest spring your using? so I can call and get some....

I'm using Part Number 2505 (.36#/in) in combination with the Wicked Switch.

Good luck!

[boomerfoxtrot]

one more thing..

the pro shop here.. their team shoots the 02 timmys and dragons...
they all run the WAS board... but when I asked about it for the GZ they said that there was no need for it, I have a GZ with the 2.02 something SOB in it...

they said that the WAS board was for the LCD models.. and that there would be no way to adjust them in the GZ cause it doesn't have an LCD... now, with that said..
what makes it worth the $120 to get the WAS board in the GZ?

[Jack & Coke]

Originally posted by boomerfoxtrot
one more thing..

the pro shop here.. their team shoots the 02 timmys and dragons...
they all run the WAS board... but when I asked about it for the GZ they said that there was no need for it, I have a GZ with the 2.02 something SOB in it...

they said that the WAS board was for the LCD models.. and that there would be no way to adjust them in the GZ cause it doesn't have an LCD... now, with that said..
what makes it worth the $120 to get the WAS board in the GZ?

Not true. You can program dwell, debounce, and eye modes very easily via the trigger.

Soon you can program everything via the equalink (PDA or PC)

The Equalizer is FASTER than the 2.02 board.

The Equalizer has FORCED mode for the eyes... this feathure alone is worth the upgrade.

more info here: http://www.wickedairsportz.com/produ...alizer.htm#BM4

My GZ is much FASTER now than before... BIG DIFFERENCE!

Get it... great product... you'll love it!

[Curly]

Yes the was board is definitely worth it. My GZ just rocks with this board. The forced eye mode as J&C stated is worth it alone.

[boomerfoxtrot]

ok, so soon you will be able to work and set it via pc... will that be the same was board, or a new one? if it is a new one, then I will wait...

[Curly]

Any new was board you buy now will work fine with the computer link that is suppossed to come out in the next three weeks acoording to www.wickedairsportz.com

[thecavemankevin]

You can make you switch just like the WAS one on your own

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37414&highlight=trigger+job+on+hyper+frame

This should save you 10 bucks or whatever WAS charges.
I did this on my hyperframe and yes, it feels a good bit softer and shorter.

[Jack & Coke]

Great tip!

How does the new switch mode feel?

Do you still get a "click"?

Thanks for sharing

[thecavemankevin]

very soft now

3 quarters and a penny....i forget how much that is 7/10 of an ounce i think?

[boomerfoxtrot]

I fliped the switch over, and I still have the "click" ...
but it is softer...
=]


working on ways to make it even softer...

[rdb123]

Hate to bring this one back from the dead, but Jack, you might find this post interesting: http://pbnation.com/showthread.php?s...1&pagenumber=1

...especially because I mentioned your test in it and someone asserted that it was a hoax.

-Ron

[SlipknotX556]

J&C, while I was playing with my friends 2k2 today, I decided to try the roller trigger method, it works, but it was harder to do because he has a dragon trigger on his timmy, the stock GZ triggers are better grooved for rolling. But the method really does work.