Tom: Info About Eblade

[BarryTolar]

You asked so here goes

Battery life is not good on Eblades (they don't get 10K shots of a battery) (E-Class Orracle if you care)

But they are very much nice

I like Race's way of dropping the sear better but that's about the only point that the Race Has over the Eblade. (And that's not only from a battery life point of view - the Race way just seems better - Eblade big honking solenoid versus the Race little solenoid and complicated drop device)

Well the sear and the fact that a Race frame takes normal grips

Anything else you need to know I'll answer as best I can

Barry Tolar

[AGD]

So what is the battery life? Does the Race use a solenoid or an air piston to drop the sear?

Thanks,

AGD

[manike]

The race also get's much better battery life and has a rechargeable battery pack (which I personally way prefer over using 9 volts, I hate 9 volts with a vengeance). I can't say how many shots my Race gun gets on one charge (quite a lot though), but you can happily use it for a few weeks and then charge it up, or just charge it for a few hours before use.

The race also uses a solenoid to drop the sear but it does it with the help of a little mechanical advantage lever set up so it can use a very tiny solenoid. I believe they have a patent on their solenoid/sear method... It's very unlike the E-blades large and 'brute force' smack it hard method

I do prefer the trigger set up on the E-blade, the opto eye and way it feels to shoot is very nice. And the adjustability is excellent and easier to get just perfect. It can be set scary short if you want... shorter than any other gun I've used (but then I don't like my triggers too short anymore...)

But I definitely prefer the fact that the race can use standard 45 grips. Although the E-blade grips aren't bad (they are comfy) I just like the choice and options that comes with a more standard grip. There is something to the smooth and polished edges of the E-blade which makes it look better also...

Both work well. I own a race frame, but have used an E-blade quite a few times.

[cledford]

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...=race+AND+sear

website: www.racegun.dk

Bill Mills also did a Race review:

http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/paintguns/autococker/racegun/

-Calvin

[Me]

the eblade runs longer with a lighter main spring
and i personally would rather have 2 full 9 volts @ a tourney then 1 rechargable thats empty.
the trigger is magnetic, and has 3 set points. 1 for before the fire point, one after and one to make the magnet have more or less force
once i get mine i'll post more
Later

[JAM]

Ditto on two points-

1.the eBlade is horrible on battery life... when i (briefly) owned one, my battery meter showed only 25% left after only 3500 shots. I thought it was cool that it used regular 9 volts, but if you have to buy a new one every day, that gets expensive... 9 volts aren't cheap.

2. the eblade's trigger is AWESOME. I like that it's optical - nothing to wear out. plus, it's wide and super adjustable externally.

-j

[ogre55]

I can concur on the battery life problem with E-Blades. A case of paint will eat through about half the charge off a 9 volt. I have invested in rechargeable NiHM batteries.

However, besides the very sweet trigger on the E-Blade, another nice feature is that there are three default timing modes: slow, medium and fast. You can also time manually, but I am using it in fast mode (Freeflow cocker) and I have yet to feel the need for more speed, even with my as yet unmodified trigger.

Ogre

[mykroft]

The Race has a better internal design, unfortunately, it has the singularily worst trigger I've ever encountered. The Eblade is a Brute force design, and screams out to be teamed with an E-Mag battery, but has one of the nicest triggers I've ever seen (To this day, it's the only trigger I can juggle), only the Matrix comes close IMHO (For electro's that is, RT and Eclipse Hinge are tops for mech triggers)

As a guy without a car, I'm a huge fan of 9v powered everything. I just make sure to have a half dozen Duracell Ultra's in my bag at all times. I even sold my Angel primarily because of the battery issue.

Also: Battery life on EBlades, what batteries were you using? A Duracell Ultra should get significantly better life than a stock Duracell or Energizer alkaline when used in high drain devices like an EBlade (Personal experience is anywhere from 33% to 50% longer life). But the Eblade does scream for a E-Mag battery mod (Or that Benchy Battery)

[Me]

Rayovac Alkaline 9 Volt (Bulk) $ 301.00
$1.26 each!
Rayovac high-quality alkaline 9 Volt cell. Packed 240 per box. Sold in box quantities only.
on

http://www.epower2go.biz/index.html?target=dept_6.html&lang=en-us

yoooow. thats a lot, but very expensive

I think i will check out those rechargables.
I always thought the rechargables lasted much less/. any one know if thats true?

[BarryTolar]

Manike is dead on as usual.

Rechargable 9vt have 150 or 200 mah ratings on them

an Energizer Max 9vt has 625 mah an Energizer E2 has 655 mah

So if 625 mah get's less than 5K shots in an Eblade how long to you think 200 mah is going to last ?

But that trigger in the Eblade is very very nice. I prefer it to the Race.

Also the point about the Race having a serial port for timing is true but that's not always a good thing. If you don't have a laptop or palm with the right cable you can't change the settings at the field. Can be a big pain in the rear.

But the Race's way of dropping the sear is just so much more refined than Eblade's. It's still a solenoid but a really little one.

We've got a Professional Race frame (Called the "lite" by some folks) and It's got 60K cycles on the first battery and it's down about 2 volts from fresh so.

Barry

[Me]

can someone explain the differnce between the race and eblades sear dropping? o wait....this is what i kno....the Eblade is just a sear tripper like spyders ect....and race kicks it out from underneath it or something?
am i right?

[e1ement5]

Does it really matter? Racegun has filed for chapter 13. Pour management and the CEO's running off with cash have forced the company to reorganize in hopes of not going out of business. Currently the future of the racegun system is in question, though distributors currently have to right to manufacture components to keep existing systems up and running. At least with the E blade your using a system that will hopefully be around in the future.

[cledford]

Originally posted by BarryTolar

Also the point about the Race having a serial port for timing is true but that's not always a good thing. If you don't have a laptop or palm with the right cable you can't change the settings at the field. Can be a big pain in the rear.

Doesn't the Eblade require you to remove the grip to access the LCD? Does the grip removal require a screw-driver? I time my Race using a Palm which I take to the field with me. To be honest I've never needed it there - but leave it in the car just in case. I'd do the same with a screw-driver and therefore would still have to walk back to the vehicle to get into the grip.(This is assuming you need a tool to access the Eblade)

-Calvin

[Me]

well a screw driver costs 2 bucks, and a palm costs 200 bucks. I'd rather pay 2 bux to get my timing right. cuz i would never buy a palm for anything else

[cledford]

Originally posted by Me
well a screw driver costs 2 bucks, and a palm costs 200 bucks. I'd rather pay 2 bux to get my timing right. cuz i would never buy a palm for anything else

If you've got a palm it isn't an issue. Also, the UI is much easier to use.

-Calvin