i've noticed w/ my intelliframe and x-valve, i only need about 1/2 the trigger pull length for it to fire. it's a little hard to get a good judgement cause everytime it fires my finger goes back forward becuase of the reactiveness. now i know all i have to do it just take the trigger out and put a set screw in there but any 1 else ever do this? any 1 have an idea on the size and length of the set screw? how about any have any pics? thanks
trigger stop?
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trigger stop?
AIM- TheJester493 IM me some time
take a look at my minimag
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http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=64837Tags: None
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i would rather not burn that kind of money when i already have an intelliframeAIM- TheJester493 IM me some time
take a look at my minimag
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http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=64837
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the point of it is that i only need about 1/2 the pull, and what's the point of having all the extra slack? it will actually increase my rate of fire more because it would bottom out at the same spot it shoots, so i'm not still pulling it back further after it's already firedAIM- TheJester493 IM me some time
take a look at my minimag
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http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=64837
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Yes, you can put a stop in. Just make sure the trigger pull stops past the point of the sear releasing the bolt. That way your gun will fire every time.
I agree, why pull the trigger farther than needed. Its wasted time in both directions, both pulling and returning.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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This is what I did, and it works great. You know those coin rollers that banks ask you to use if you're going to deposit a whole bunch of coins? Well, I took one, ripped it in half, doubled it over a few times, and just placed it where you would have put a screw inside the frame. Then i screwed the trigger frame back on the gun, and it works wonderfully. Best of all, I can just take it out if I want with no hassel at all. You could probably do this with any paper.
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