Stripping anno?

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  • Remington
    AGD E-mag Faithful
    • Aug 2002
    • 1671

    #1

    Stripping anno?

    Does anyone know how to strip anno or know someplace that does? I'm looking to get my Emag trigger frame and battery pack stripped and then polished. Or, is there such thing as a chrome anno(probably a stupid question)? Post some ideas, thanks!

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    TunaMart

    TheMagSmith

    Mint Paintball

  • BajaBoy
    Registered User
    • Jun 2002
    • 2158

    #2
    u could search to find that you can use Lye.

    and also its crome/nickle plating
    RT
    Ace'd Emag (sold)
    Xmag (sold)

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    • Teen
      -Mag Master-
      • Oct 2002
      • 159

      #3
      with sand paper. start with a lower grain, about 320, and work yourway up to about 1200. It would be pretty much the same way as you would sand and polish a teflon coated mag body. i did it to mine and it turned out great. there should be a thread somewhere that tells u how to do it step by step.
      MY MAG:
      -SS P/F right body
      -Nickel Intelliframe
      -NW nickel drop forward w/quick disconnect and on/off
      -Nickel CP mini forgrip
      -X-valve
      -Lv X
      -SP blue splash kit with matching AA barrel.

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      • Mossman
        habitual line stepper
        • Oct 2001
        • 3751

        #4
        Originally posted by Teen
        with sand paper. start with a lower grain, about 320, and work yourway up to about 1200. It would be pretty much the same way as you would sand and polish a teflon coated mag body. i did it to mine and it turned out great. there should be a thread somewhere that tells u how to do it step by step.

        You have to strip the anno first. John, you use a lye/water solution to do it, like red devil pipe/oven cleaner or Drain-o crystals. Hell, I could do it for ya too. Then to polish it either a polishing compound on a buffing wheel or something like Mother's Mag Polish will work wonders.
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        • BajaBoy
          Registered User
          • Jun 2002
          • 2158

          #5
          Originally posted by Teen
          with sand paper. start with a lower grain, about 320, and work yourway up to about 1200. It would be pretty much the same way as you would sand and polish a teflon coated mag body. i did it to mine and it turned out great. there should be a thread somewhere that tells u how to do it step by step.

          that works better for ss, when u use any kind of wet/dry paper on alu your always gunna have lines left over. Even with a brillow pad u wont have a Perfect surface. I lurned it the hard way, just use lie... then clean the metal really good, polish it, clear ano it.. then polish the crap out of it agian.
          RT
          Ace'd Emag (sold)
          Xmag (sold)

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          • Remington
            AGD E-mag Faithful
            • Aug 2002
            • 1671

            #6
            Awesome, thanks for the help guys.

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            TunaMart

            TheMagSmith

            Mint Paintball

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            • Teen
              -Mag Master-
              • Oct 2002
              • 159

              #7
              oooppps. i didn't even thing about that. i was thinking like it was stainless steel. my bad, im stupid, don't listen to me
              MY MAG:
              -SS P/F right body
              -Nickel Intelliframe
              -NW nickel drop forward w/quick disconnect and on/off
              -Nickel CP mini forgrip
              -X-valve
              -Lv X
              -SP blue splash kit with matching AA barrel.

              Comment

              • BajaBoy
                Registered User
                • Jun 2002
                • 2158

                #8
                Originally posted by Teen
                oooppps. i didn't even thing about that. i was thinking like it was stainless steel. my bad, im stupid, don't listen to me
                lol no, if i didnt make that mistake then i would have said the same thing as u
                RT
                Ace'd Emag (sold)
                Xmag (sold)

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                • magking1971
                  Team Fart Factory
                  • May 2001
                  • 1089

                  #9
                  Oven cleaner works well also

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                  • Load SM5
                    Scruffy Administrator

                    • Oct 2000
                    • 6772

                    #10
                    Drano-o crystals and warm water. Wear rubber gloves, use tongs and do it outside but that is the fastest and neatest way to strip anno. After it's off you can polish it right up with no scratches to worry about like sanding.

                    If you need more details PM me. I've stripped quite a few parts that way.


                    Moorewatch

                    If you read this, thank a teacher.
                    If you read this in English, thank a soldier.

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                    • magman007
                      I <3 my Penis
                      • Jun 2001
                      • 7579

                      #11



                      Originally posted by Tom in reffrence to a post saying he acted like my dad...
                      "That's right!
                      WHO'S YOUR DADDY!!"
                      ALL QUIT AND NO GO!!! Team Icky Forest-Shatnerball 2003!!!
                      www.tunamart.com
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                      • Remington
                        AGD E-mag Faithful
                        • Aug 2002
                        • 1671

                        #12
                        How long does the Drano method take and how well does it strip it? Mossman suggested a sodium chloride mixture(lye) but it's starting to sound like the Drano thing works better.

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                        TunaMart

                        TheMagSmith

                        Mint Paintball

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                        • Load SM5
                          Scruffy Administrator

                          • Oct 2000
                          • 6772

                          #13
                          Lye is also used in drain cleaners and they both work equally well in my experience. You should only leave the part in there for 10-15 seconds at a time before pulling it out and wiping off the losse anno with a rag. Repeat until the anno is off. If it's a bigger part like a body rail you may have to change the drano/water solution to keep from cooking the old anno back on some. If the solution looks pretty murky then change it. Use tongs as much as possible because the part will get pretty hot. And do it outside because the fumes are a killer, literally. And rubber gloves will keep off those pesky chemical burns.


                          Moorewatch

                          If you read this, thank a teacher.
                          If you read this in English, thank a soldier.

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                          • Jonesie
                            All Around Good Guy
                            • Oct 2002
                            • 1123

                            #14
                            You wouldn't know anything about those chemical burns, would ya Jeff?

                            Later ~ Jonesie
                            David M. Jones
                            AO Member #1111 - Formerly davej946
                            Member of Team AO, MGO 2003

                            Wildfire :: Division III X-Ball
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                            • Smokee_2_7
                              Registered User
                              • Nov 2000
                              • 823

                              #15
                              Yes, as others have said- - drano or lye oven cleaner works well to remove the ano layer.

                              The problem that you can anticipate is what happens AFTER you get it all stripped off. You will be left with bare aluminum. Bare AL tends to oxidize rather quickly- - and will not hold a nice mirror shine like stainless steel will. Mother's Mag polish will help put a nice shine on there for you, but expect to have to re-polish every couple weeks if you want it to stay looking like that.


                              Yes, there is a "silver" anodize available. Basiclly what we do is strip the part, polish the living crap out of it (super-mirror) and then anodize the peice for relativly short period of time. (the reason for this is that parts that are allowed to anno for the full time look kinda 'lemony' when they come out.) Then we simply skip the coloring process, and promptly seal the pores created by the anodizing. What you wind up with is a nice, silver looking part that does not have that SUPER reflective, shiney 'chrome' look. The reason we annodize it is because the anno layer is prevents oxidation and is a more scratch resistant than raw aluminum. You don't have to worry about re-polishing with a compound such as Mother's or anything like that.


                              Hope this helps answer your question,

                              Carl

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