RT need answers (Sorry if this is a dup, me 1st time posting)

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  • Chaos
    1TimeAtBandCamp...TwEaK!!
    • Oct 2000
    • 721

    #16
    dunno if it has been answered or not since I only read the first couple posts, but I think i know what you did.

    A common thing many people will do is adjust their velocity accidentally. Turning the pressure (velocity) up or down will change the reactiveness of you gun. This makes it a blender, which is what many people complain about, when really its because they adjusted something. First thing, chrono your gun. The sears are built very well, and are expensive to replace (last I checked, a new RT sear with the carbide tip or whatever it is, was $75). I'd say you adjusted the velocity accidentally.

    Go to a chrono, and chrono your RT (Make sure you know how to do this) if you dont know, you pull the trigger and hold it back, then let it out and pull it back in again, but do that as fast as possible. This simulates the RT firing fast (the velocity rises as you shoot faster), so you can check your velocity properly. Try to keep it below 280fps if you are playing with ur friends rebel style, or if you're at a field go by their guidlines (east coast is normally 300fps, west coast is normally 280fps from my experience).


    Next thing you may want to check, is your input pressure. I'm not sure if you have an adjustable tank on your RT, but if you do (I think its much better with one), then you are able to adjust your reactiveness much easier. I'd say start with an input of 700-750psi, then turn it up to get more reactiveness, firing about 20shots in between each adjustment, till you get the trigger the way you want it to be and the reactiveness you like. Almost all preset nitro tanks put an input at 850psi, which is a little on the high end of reactiveness for me, but it may suit you. If it doesn't try turning your velocity down some, or as a last resort use a regulator to turn down the pressure (you may loose some air flow tho...).

    If none of that works, then your sear very well be worn down....
    ~Chaos
    [email protected]
    NutBuster.net
    Team AO, SoCal

    Wanna talk to a REAL skanline guntech? Email [email protected]

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    • Mild 7
      The True Wang
      • Nov 2001
      • 140

      #17
      I called up AGD in Illinois today and explained the situation to them. They told me since my gun is still under warranty, all repairs will be done for free. And I guess my gun needs repair probabily due the cleaning that was done a few weeks ago. AGD told me that RT is NOT suppose to go in the run-away mode. That's usually done by a customer intentionaly or accidentally in my case. The point is, its not good for the gun at all, and not good on my behalf.

      I don't think my velocity have anything to do with it really. I know how to chrono the RT after a few practice and usually set it at 270-275 fps. The extreme reactiveness was still there despite of the velocity. In terms of input pressure, I really am not sure anymore. When I first bought my RT, it came with a 114/3000 Nitroduck that was set at 675-700. This summer, I traded that in for a Nitroduck Tuffskin 68/4500. But I didn't ask what the input pressure was, and it is not adjustable. I think the input pressure is fine. All the problems begin to occur after the cleaning.

      Anyway, I don't want to take up any of you guys precious time and thank you all for being patient with me and helping me out with my RT glitches. AGD will take it over from here.

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      • PsychoMag
        the Franchise baller
        • Jul 2001
        • 906

        #18
        Hey mild, I have the same tank and have never had a problem with it, I believe the tank pressure is 850psi preset. I didnt realize it was the older style RT with the banjo bolt.

        AGD will fix it, they fix anything good luck.
        Max Lundqvist's 1 of 2 Angel Joy A1
        DEMONIC Freeflow Cocker No. 4 of 13 My Feedback

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