I just got shot in the mouth by my on/off valve

[yeahthatsme]

do a search for proper degassing methods, there was a thread a while back on how to do this correctly....

[Will Wood]

*Points*

Haha

.. Yea I've done it do.. A while ago, I put the on/off in upside down, so I gased it up to get it out lol. But I was smart and put it in my pillow when I did it.

[cphilip]

...its well known that you must have a device to degass the marker BEFORE removing the valve and that macroline cannot be released at preassures over about 100 psi to do this. You need to put at least a quick connect on there. And then it will not and CANNOT retain pressure. YOU MUST REMOVE ALL PRESSURE. Its a must. Its a part of the service line to the valve that you need to construct to do this.

Do not remove the valve with any pressure in the line. None. It will be potentialy hazardous and even damage the on off pin.

If you do not have the proper set up there is another way to degass the line pressure. Take a short piece of dowel rod and depress the bolt to the side and it will leak it out. Takes a little effort but it will work.

[Miscue]

I had to pull it out of the wall once... took me a while to realize where that bugger went.

The problem is when... people don't use a QD to degas. If you have just macroline... like many people do... it's really tough to degas completely.

Scared the hell out of me first time it happened... I had no idea that would happen. I'd like to see some solution to this, as it is a hazard.

Don't stare directly into the on/off assembly!

[xen_100]

this is a known issue. with LX there is residual pressure posible even after you degas the gun. that is why Tom said to pull and hold the trigger as you remove the valve from the gun. that way any left over pressure will be vented when the bolt moves slightly forward, safely.

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

I also believe that the issue of shooting down your gun with the level 10 installed was addressed by saying that the new bolt springs were stronger and would hold the bolt tight enough that some residual pressure would remain.

[Hexis]

Help me wrap my brain around this. If the on/off is open (sear in the resting state) how is it possible to have residual pressure if the valve's input is open to normal atmospheric pressure? Shouldn't the dump chamber degas through the on/off?

[xen_100]

degas to where? if your regulator is doing its job, then the pressure in the dump chamber will be enough to push the reg piston back and keep the cup seal up against the reg seat. in an ideal situation, it will keep the pressure in the dump chamber and the airway to the reg. since the LX will stop shooting at about 400 PSI, this is why you still have some pressure in the gun.

[Troy]

you can degas macro line using a pliers on the fiting to blead the left over gas in the line.

[j.t.]

Ok, first of all, I understand that removing the valve without totaly degasing the marker is very dangerous, and that all of the air needs to bled from the air lines before removing it. For those of you who said that we need to do this, please re-read my original post. This is not the problem we are having. I run a screw in/preset tank so bleeding on the pressure in the lines is not an issue because this is done when the tank is removed.

I have tried the methods said above but none of these have been working for me. I have tried releasing the air from the valve by moving the bolt around and could not yield any results from this.

The other way mentioned was to shoot the marker or hold the trigger back while removing the tank. The reason this does not work is because my level 10 mag with classic valve (if having a classic valve makes a difference) will fire until I run low enough on pressure that I can pull the trigger repeatedly without dumping the remaining air in the chamber. THIS is when the problem occurs.

It seems the only way to avoid this would be to simply not run the tank pressure down low enough for this to happen.

[xen_100]

Originally posted by Troy
you can degas macro line using a pliers on the fiting to blead the left over gas in the line.

thanks for playing along......that is not what we are talking about.

and that is a really dumb way to degas any gun. it ruins the hose and the fitting, why not just get a slide check, they are $10!

[BTAutoMag]

i always pull it out slowly so when it does de gas it will hit the metal and not me

[xen_100]

Originally posted by j.t.
..........The other way mentioned was to shoot the marker or hold the trigger back while removing the tank. The reason this does not work is because my level 10 mag with classic valve (if having a classic valve makes a difference) will fire until I run low enough on pressure that I can pull the trigger repeatedly without dumping the remaining air in the chamber. THIS is when the problem occurs.

It seems the only way to avoid this would be to simply not run the tank pressure down low enough for this to happen.

if you are referring to my suggestion, that is not quite what I meant, I think. you still have to degass the gun. slide check, proconnect, remove the tank, however you do it. the residual gas in the valve can be explelled by slowing removing the valve. (you have to hold the trigger to get the on/off pin to stay up)

[AGD]

Guys,

We are looking into this now. Please tell me if this was with a standard valve or a retro valve, there is a big difference.

Thanks

AGD

[BlackVCG]

The solution to all degasing problems.