Shortening the classic mag triger travel.

[Carbon]

Im pretty sure there are some folks that have already done this. Im guessing there are some excessive/premature wear issues on the sear or bolt flange as a result of this mod. Void your warranty i suppoese, but can someone give me the smackdown on this particular setup.

Ive manage to shim the trigger so the travel is a litte less than 1/8 of an In. or so. Im guessing its about 3/64 In. of travel before firing.

I have achieved a higher rate of fire because of it, but im still not going to use this mod. Its only been dry fired, ihave not short stroked it, but from what i can tell, by the sound, it sounds like i might be getting shoot-down.

Im using a sliced up guitar pick as a shim. From what i gather the shim is about 1/16 of an in.

Hope this picture will clarify what i mean.

In anycase, if it bad for mag, which i dont doubt it will be... lay the info on me.

Thnx!

[Carbon]

ok here we go

[Dave]

This post more or less belongs in the tech forum, but I'll say it now...

Take it out.

Here is why>>>>

I've been tinkering w/ mags for a while and I'll tell your that what you are doing is shortening the time for the on/off to open and close, and moving the sear to the edge of the bolt. I accidentally forgot to shorten my trigger rod for one of my mags before a game, to lend to one of my buddies, and by the end of the game, the mag was short stroking, double firing, and when I took it apart, had a 45 degree flat spot on the tip of the sear where it contacts the bolt. Not happy.

You absolutely cannot play with the trigger rod if you don't know what your doing...and creating a spacer is another way of doing that...and trust me, it doesn't work. I actually did the same thing. Heck, I even fashioned a custom spacer specifically for my z-grip, for the exact same thing your talking about. All it did was cause trouble. I threw it away.

-Dave

[Carbon]

Cool thnx for the info dave, that whole thing is 86'd.

[Meph]

Well I'm sure if you removed the on/off pin assembly section, made a custom trigger frame that was mounted a bit further forward and had a regular sear (like a Tippmann, Spyder, Piranha) instead of the pivot one. You could make it a bit shorter.

But then if you did you'd just have a Desert Fox!

[Miscue]

I wrote this a long time ago:
It's not about putting in shims, but adjusting rod... which has pretty much same effect as adding shims.




Adjusting your trigger rod does absolutely nothing to help you. As TK put it, there are 4 points of interest in the Automag trigger. Where the trigger is fully released, where it is fully pulled... and the two intermediate positions where the gun fires and where it recharges. Adjusting your trigger rod DOES NOT change the distance between the fire/recharge, all it does is change where it sits between the ends of the trigger pull.

Ideally you want a little slack after where it fires, and a little slack between the point where it fires and is completely pulled

| | = Distance between fire/recharge
[ ] = Ends of trigger stroke
&nbsp

[&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp|->&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp<-|&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp] Correct trigger rod

[&nbsp|->&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp<-|&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp] Improperly adjusted trigger rod.

As you can see, you have to let go ALL the way with the screwed up trigger rod. Or if you went the other direction, you have to pull the trigger harder. This is why you don't screw with your trigger rod!

[SIGSays]

if you got xtra sears.. go for it!