Question on Pre BE Revy

[-=Squid=-]

Originally posted by Spaceman613
Star base... if you dont have a USEFUL comment, dont post.

Its pre-BE, plain and simple. If you want to get rid of it, I dont know what a fair price is, but i might know someone that may want it. He has an older cocker (#406) that he wants to put all older parts on.

Im sure you could sell it at the tinkers guild classifieds.

No, in all honesty his idea wasnt bad.

[Spaceman613]

Yes it was a bad idea... you can look at it,it says vl2000. There its pre-be. No debate, no nothing. BE NEVER ,made anything before revs. ALL evs are be, revs are in the interim area. And the way to see if they are pre or post buyout is to look at the feedneck. And even that doesnt work all of the time.

Besides, I have 2 BE revs.. they havent broke and Ive been using them for years. Lots of hopper shots, lots of dropping them, and lots of puttng them on guns... Havent broke yet.

[jdev]

or, try the 2 foot drop.

hold it about 2 feet above any hard surface, if it cracks/breaks, congrats, you have a BE product. if it doesnt, its a keeper.

[UThomas]

I didn't know people still liked these. I have 2 View Loader 2000's if anybody is interested in buying them. PM me.

[hAppy]

listen i love my pre BE shells as long as all my friends
we bought them USED for 25! and damn they re still quality

my friend bought a brand new one for 50 and god those shells are terrible, you knock on them they sound cheap, the lid sounds terrible when you close it and open it, feels like the whole revy is gonna break

but the PRE BE shells you can knock as hard as you want and the lid is like bendy so it wont crack

when i buy revys i only look for PRE BE hehe

[Creative Mayhem]

I have two of those... on all purple(not see through) and one clear/black these things will take anything you can throw at them... they are extremely sturdy. I still have my original one(all purple.)

As for the slowness... there was a kit called the Shredder kit, basically it was;

a larger paddle

an extra 9V lead

a new eye for the extra voltage

a battery box that mounted to the bottom of the hopper

All you did... was basically solder the extra 9v lead to the motor or board... (i cant remember, and i am too lazy to take mine apart) the replace the eye and paddle... and BINGO you had a 18v hopper that would spin like crazy. Well, better tan just the regular hopper anyway...

Here's a pic of mine on my Minimag.

[jpdgas]

since this is the only plave ive erally seen this come up, ill put in my 2. I have the vl2000 and its great except for its speed, super durable. i bought a new revy x-board and put it on my warp...the feed neck cracked. i taped it and it stayed for a while, then the lid hinge snapped. pure crap. i hate BE for screwing up a great product, hold on to rour old shells! if you have any 12 volt pre-be shells im interested...

[hAppy]

Originally posted by jpdgas
since this is the only plave ive erally seen this come up, ill put in my 2. I have the vl2000 and its great except for its speed, super durable. i bought a new revy x-board and put it on my warp...the feed neck cracked. i taped it and it stayed for a while, then the lid hinge snapped. pure crap. i hate BE for screwing up a great product, hold on to rour old shells! if you have any 12 volt pre-be shells im interested...

thats what i expect will happen to my friends revy

its like revy w/ xboard and it comes w/ cancer free!