How many Emag users have adjusted their trigger ?

[CFD323]

I think I'm going to mess around with my trigger and I was just wondering how many people out there have done the same ? If so, what did you do to it ? Soften the pull, shorten the pull etc ?

[Evil Bob]

Yes. Removed one of the magnets and put in a spacer (spare on/off o-ring) at the bottom of the magnet stack. Also shortened the trigger travel (magnet adjustment in the trigger itself and the trigger stop screw in the selector knob) just far enough that it wont fire when the safety is on.

-Evil Bob

[BradPalooza]

I went the opposite route. I turned the magnet in so it fires later in the trigger pull. Or, in other words, when it fires, the trigger is closer to the trigger rod. In hybrid mode it rips. I never play in straight E mode.
-Brad

[Frank (the spank)]

Pretty basic.

1 magnet, o-ring to space it, the pull is VERY short so I can just touch the trigger and it shoots.

[BlackVCG]

I wrote a thread about E-Mag trigger adjustment. It's in the Gun/Airsystem Maintenance thread in the Tech Forum.

You do want to set your fire point just before the end of the stroke in E-Mode. This way, when you're ripping on it, you don't have to let the trigger back all the way to reset the HES.

[CFD323]

Hey Black, is this gonna cause the much talked about trigger bounce ?

[Duke Henry]

I took out 1 of the magnets in mine (leaving 1 in it), but I also put in 2 spacers (teeny tiny o-rings that came with the emag).

I believe I also shortened up the trigger pull a bit, and so I had to quicken the firing cycle a bit.

I run the gun in Emode only, and can walk the trigger without problem. I tend to walk when dumping off of the start, but after that have been known to switch between walking and simple pulling in game. I guess I still have to get used to the trigger from the old RTP.

[fire1811]

Originally posted by Frank (the spank)
Pretty basic.

1 magnet, o-ring to space it, the pull is VERY short so I can just touch the trigger and it shoots.

ditto

[Russ]

Yeah, you could say I adjusted it...

I reamed the trigger pin holes in the frame and trigger, then installed an oversized (.1265", IIRC) precision hardened gauge pin (cut to length, of course)

Then shims were added to either side of the trigger, to further eliminate side-to-side play. It will not accept a .001" thicker shim, or the trigger will bind.

The travel is set to exactly .020", measured where Tom suggests in the video (at the "bottom" of the top finger groove) I also ground down the "hump" in my trigger.

I run 3 magnets, because I like the snappy trigger return. It helps me fire faster, and just rips in Hybrid mode...

[CFD323]

Hey Russ, do you know what the stock trigger travel is ?

[IcantBelieveit]

Sorry. for the stupid question. but i am a new e-mag owner.
What is Hybrid mode? Is it the same as e-mode?

[Russ]

Hey Russ, do you know what the stock trigger travel is ?

It's whatever the Tech set it to the day it was assembled...you could always measure it with a set of calipers. All Paintgunners should have calipers

[darklord]

Originally posted by IcantBelieveit
Sorry. for the stupid question. but i am a new e-mag owner.
What is Hybrid mode? Is it the same as e-mode?

hybrid is e-mode with the RT valve return to it. Set your switch to M with the yellow pin out, and voila!

[Army]

One magnet in frame, with 2 O-rings under that. Travel is VERY short, and pull is nearly non-existant. The magnet in trigger was epoxied into place, as there is no thread left to allow the adjustment screw. I did the work to create the blade trigger, it is not a factory option.

[SHAZAM-AGD]

one magnet

one magnut with many spacers so that the magnet is as far up away from the top of the trigger as possible.

I was lucky nothing else needed tweeking...

this makes for the lighest pull with out totally removing the magnet.