With the reactivity going down, I doubt it.
ULE triggers at iao?
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Ok the basic therory behind this is a change in piston size in the on-off assy. adding shims basicly moves the point at which the on-off pin contacts the O-ring and allows it to recharge. Adding shims moves the recharge point closer to the fire point in the trigger swing. Eventually you can add enought shims in which the fire and recharge points are close enough to be within the distance the reduced reactivity pops your finger forward (this is bad news) so you have to remove a shim and get it just on the verge of runaway without crossing it.
basicly it installs alot like the LVL 10. But its far easier to break if your rough with it.
Oh and to counter the comments of the reduced reactivity... the ratio of reactivity is the same. its just reduced to allow you to have a shorter effective trigger swing (I fail to remember the spiffy H-word TK used for it) with out insane bounce. After all a 1 pound pull and 6 pound bounce would runaway even if the trigger pull was as long as a stock spyder
So.....
15 oz pull- 2 pound-ish bounce is balanced
AFTICA 4 Life! the low rent (unsponsored) AGD team at IAO
Team Sandbaggers: 2k4 Texball Champs of the world!
SFL Emag
RTP abomination
Sydarm + scenario project VM-68 to be featured later.
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I think the whole gun concept safety thing is that if you have a 2 pound trigger pull its more difficult to accidently pull the trigger. Thats why Tom said there would be safety issue with the gun.All your farm animals are belong to us.
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My ULE trigger is now up and running. I have not completely tuned it but it is very nice. I am running 1 LX shim (.010) and 2 ULT shims (.005 each). Tonite I will get a chance to tune it further.
the trigger seem suited to my finger since I don't go for 47 BPS. I like 4-8 BPS with each shot a unique pull so I haven't had any short stroking problem.
I'll update on the tuning effort.
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one mod I may do myself is to tap a hole for adding a set screw at the top of the trigger to shorten the distance between the fire point and the forward stop
it seems logical enough and the next step in the process
AFTICA 4 Life! the low rent (unsponsored) AGD team at IAO
Team Sandbaggers: 2k4 Texball Champs of the world!
SFL Emag
RTP abomination
Sydarm + scenario project VM-68 to be featured later.
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Now I am sad. I almost came to IOA completely to go to this class, hoping to get one of these and the knowledge on how to use it. But I held myself back. Stupid me!
Jamie
Minimag with X-valve #VV02908
Palmer Pursuit Custom Brass Barrel // J&J Ceramic // Dye Aluminum
Intelliframe and Warp Feed
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Edwierd, I went out at lunch and got a tap and drill and screw so I could do just that, tap the trigger for the post travel.
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I dont konw how well it will work for post travel... but pretravel would be an easy mod
AFTICA 4 Life! the low rent (unsponsored) AGD team at IAO
Team Sandbaggers: 2k4 Texball Champs of the world!
SFL Emag
RTP abomination
Sydarm + scenario project VM-68 to be featured later.
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wolnt REALLY work?...does this mean there is none, or just very lil hope for me (i have a classic valve, and appear to be stuck with it 4 life!)Originally posted by Dayspring
Classic valve- won't work really. Possible short stroking.
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If the force to pull the trigger and the force returned on the trigger are both reduced by the exact same amount, why wouldn't it sweetspot? It would still have the same push/pull ratio on the trigger correct?Cobalt DM4
Team Synapsis
THE GARDNER BROS ARE AS COOL AS HERPES
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ok, so it will work with the classic valve, but not very well, and only with practice, WOO HOO! im gettin a ULE trigger!
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