E-Mag foregrip/battery pack

[raehl]

Ok, so I just got a 1.37 E-Mag yesterday. When I put the foregrip/battery pack on and screw it in, it never quite gets a "solid" feel to it. I've noticed that the groove on the back of the battery pack is not as wide as the trigger frame, so it never actually "sits" over the foregrip. Is this right? If so, why is there a groove in the back of the battery pack at all?

Thanks,
Chris

[raehl]

erm, right..

That should be "if not", not "if so". oopsa, I hate misplacing negatives.

And another question while I'm at it: (I got this as a package offa EBay if anyone wondering, havn't had a chance to watch the videos yet) There are wires coming out the bottom of the grip, black and red. One of thm has a plug on the end which is obviously meant for the warp feed. There's another set which has a little black thing on it right before ending in a 9-volt adaptor. (i.e., that black thing with the two metal "circles" you'd attach a 9-volt battery to.) What's the deal with that?

A "RTFM" response is ok, if it's in there, havn't gotten there yet.

Thanks again,
Chris

[Load SM5]

I'm not sure what you mean by groove being as wide as the trigger frame. The battery pack slides on the dovetail joint in front of the frame like you would slide a site on top of a site rail. Unless yours has been milled away somehow it should be a nice tight fit with the battery pack screw in place.

It sounds like you have wires coming out for an intellifeed and the other set is to run the revy off of the e-mag battery pack. If you don't have a warp then you should be able to remove the wires were they are plugged into the board under the grip panel. As far as the other wires you can re-run them to the revy on top of the gun or get rid of them.

Sounds like someone did all the hard mod work for you.

[BlackVCG]

The front of the grip frame is dovetailed as is the battery pack. It should slid onto the dovetails on the grip frame and then slide straight up to the connections. With the field strip screw holding the battery pack tight, it shouldn't be able to move around.

The plug coming out of the grip panel is for the Warp Feed. I have no clue why there'd be a 9V snap coming out also. Trace the wires and see where they go. If you could get a picture of it, that would help a lot. Also a pic of your battery pack on the gun would help me to see if you have it on properly or not.

[raehl]

Yeah, so, I'm a moron....

OK, I was taking the battery pack and sliding it BACK onto the marker instead of dovetailing it on the trigger frame and sliding it UP - so problem solved there.

As for wires, right, intellifeed is there. I have a richochet on a warp feed, so I'm assuming I use the 9v connector, wire it up through the little hole in the WF battery cover, connect it to the 9V connector in there, and use that to power the warp feed? The Richochet doesn't have the battery connectors to pull that off. How long is the E-Mag battery going to be able to power the marker and the WF?

And yes, I got it used, so someone else has apparently done all the hard stuff for me. How nice of them.


Thanks a bunch,
Chris

[zads27]

If you are comfortable with your ability to solder, you can solder another 9v battery clip in parallel to the one you already have coming out of your emag, making sure you solder it in parallel on the battery clip side of the voltage regulator (black thing on the wire between emag battery and 9v battery clip), so that means solder your new wires in between the battery clip and the black voltage regulator. I'm not sure of the amerage ratings, perhaps someone else knows the standard, but you may want to just solder another 9v regulator in parallel, so you don't burn the first one out. That powers your warp, and then solder a 9v battery clip to your ricochet's battery terminals. Connect one battery clip to your warp, one to your ricochet, and voila!
BUT~! make sure you test the voltage coming out of the emag, passing through the 9v battery clip, because the person you bought the emag off of may have only regulated the voltage from the 18v emag battery down to 12v, which is the max voltage for the warp.. However, your ricochet is only designed for 9v input, and if you put more juice than that into it, you'll probably fry the richochet board or something. If the current output is 9v, then you're good to go, but if it's 12v, you need a 9v voltage regulator in addition to your extra battery clip.

With all that said and done.. It's really a simple process, it just really depends on how it is currently set-up.

p.s. i'm not responsible for damage, blah blah, you know the deal.

[raehl]

Heh, well...

Being a computer engineer by trade, if I decide on such an undertaking, I could pull it off, but considering I'm planning on "going HALO" when they're available, I'll probably just avoid the bother and use rechargable AA's in the halo and use the Richochet to tide me over until then.

I'm not sure on wether installing the regulators in parallel is such a good idea or not, but I have a headache, and I'm not going to succumb to actually drawing the circuit out.

Thanks for the tips though.

- Chris

[BlackVCG]

Before you plug that 9v harness into a Warp, power up the E-Mag and use a multi-meter to test how much voltage is coming through that 9V snap. If it's more than 12V, do NOT use it on a Warp. Anymore than 12V going directly to the Warp board and you risk frying the board, not to mention it spins so fast that with all the jumpers on it still spins too long. This is assuming it has 18V coming into it, which would mean the previous owner is taking power straight from the battery pack.