OK its time for me to make a cocker....

**1stdeadeye** · 08-09-2003, 03:58 PM

Stop the insanity!

No Bill don't! Stop the insanity!

Good luck and maybe start a thread showing you building your own custom cocker!!!

**Ov3rmind** · 08-09-2003, 04:00 PM

If you buy used parts, then maybe. Brand new there's no way you could keep it under $200.

My personal suggestions:

PPS Micro Rock LPR
WGP CT 3-Way
Freeflow Ram
Belsales Sider Frame Kit
Freeflow Tungsten Hammer
Freeflow Valve
AKALMP Lightening Bolt
CCM Clamping Feedneck

As far as beavertails, frontblocks, and grips, just go with whatever you think looks best. And of course, barrels are up to you.

Also be sure that when you're buying your pump arm and timing rod, they'll need to be mini sized. You'll also need a vertical adapter to mount on the frontblock (it needs to be the one that has the same thread size as a bottomline hose, not a standard vertical adapter).

**magman007** · 08-09-2003, 04:06 PM

Yes, im planning to go used!

thats the plan here!

altho the feedneck wont help much, since the neck i ordered is pressed in?

also, why the wgp 3 way and not to bomb? and why the ff ram over the palmers quick switch?

**Ov3rmind** · 08-09-2003, 04:15 PM

Oh, I didn't see that part about the feedneck. I'd go CT over bomb for a few reasons. The Bomb is a little more finnicky when timing as far as leaks go, plus I trust the quality of WGP products over Shocktech's (I've heard of a few Bombs that weren't threaded correctly).

Either ram will work fine really (both are really high quality products). The Freeflow is capable of higher rates of fire, but that's irrelevant when using a slider. I just fealt I had to suggest one, so I suggested Freeflow, but either are top notch. If you think you might E-Blade it later on down the road, then I'd say the Freeflow does have a slight edge over the Palmers.

**NukeGoose** · 08-09-2003, 04:19 PM

The CT 3-way is a lot smoother than the Bomb, you might also want to look for a Belsales Hollowpoint.
The Ram won't matter as much as many of the other parts, i'd go with whatever you find cheaper (FF or Palmer's), as your trigger will probably be the limiting factor of your ROF unless you have a wicked fast finger.
The AKA Lightning bolt is, of course, probably the best cocker bolt, but many good imitations exist, and you might wanna check those out.
For a LPR, the new AKA SCM is supposed to be very good, but pricy.

**Ov3rmind** · 08-09-2003, 04:27 PM

Yeah, the CT is smoother, but honestly I can only notice the smoothness between 3-ways a tincy bit. The Hollowpoint rocks if you can find one, Belsales is one of the few companies I entrust completely with Cocker upgrades (others being Freeflow, Palmers, WGP, and AKA).

Despite the good imitations of the Lightening Bolt, they are still imitations. AKA makes their stuff with such high quality, it's hard to beat. I have heard good stuff about the bolt that Compulsivepaintball.com makes, but have never shot a Cocker with one. However, past experiences with the Compulsive were top notch.

I don't doubt the SCMs performance, but I don't know too much about them yet. Knowing AKA though, it will probably be the best out there (just look at how well the Sidewinder turned out).

**misfit** · 08-09-2003, 04:37 PM

the ct is eaiser to time because it has the knob on it, i have that and a bomb and i like the ct more

**magman007** · 08-09-2003, 04:48 PM

misfit, would you be willing to sell one of them? please lmk!

**AzrealDarkmoonZ** · 08-09-2003, 10:26 PM

Buy Stock

Stock parts...

Look on PBNation, Air-powered or any other site that has classifieds and look for stock parts. Cheapest and largest bang for the buck and still under budget.

The stock LPR flows and works fine and it has the amazing ability to not be screwed by people that think turning the knob is good, since it lacks any external adjustment.

The stock 3way is fine, been running one for quite sometime, trigger is nice and short and does not leak.

Ram, Stock Ram works fine, keeps up with any speed you want assuming the LPR pressure is decent.

Bolt, again stock is the best bet, super cheap and if you get one of the 2k3 (make sure you have a compatible backblock) it has the nifty Evo style pullpin which is FAR superior over the ball bearing pin style.

Hammer, IVG, Cocking rod, All stock, stock works as well as anything.

Again the stock valve works fine, just grab a 2k3 or 2k2, not an older style valve.

Grab a WGP Hinge for 50 bucks used and you should be good to go.

This should cut it under 200 with some significant money left over for other things.

If money is no object...

Palmer Front Kit, everything palmer makes is high quality.

AKA internals matched with AKA bolt.

Eclipse Hinge.

Az

stop over at www.air-powered.com and say howdy.

**magman007** · 08-09-2003, 10:33 PM

AzrealDarkmoonZ

I appreciate your help, what i would like to try to do is find good parts cheep, like palmers and AKA if i can find them used, i will. Ive considered stock pneus, and im very open to getting them, but id like to tune my stuff, you know, get the low pressure return etc so i can be "free flow" soft...

**no_doz** · 08-10-2003, 01:05 AM

number 5 is a sweet body, i may also build a cocker, but with the cheapest parts i can find, then upgrade later. So could anyone possibly write a list of the items needed to complete a cocker from body #5?

**kosmo** · 08-10-2003, 07:52 AM

Alright Im gonna take a shot at getting it all no doz, no promises though.

Detent
Front block w/ asa
front block screw
ram
3 way
lpr
hose kit
pump rod
cocking rod
3 way actuating rod
bolt
bolt pin
back block
hammer
hammer springs
either a hinge trigger or
slider frame with trigger and sear
valve
beaver tail
all associated screws and seals probably found easiest in a parts kit

**AzrealDarkmoonZ** · 08-10-2003, 08:55 AM

FreeFlow like pressure is not a result of quality parts, it is a result of quality tuning. I have tuned countless stock cockers that could not break paint unless you were really trying. All that is simply required is a valve tool and a spring kit. The freeflow like pressure is simply a result of a light main spring. Sure you can throw in delrin vs oring, back block weights, tit pump arms but that is just a very small percent of the whole ordeal, the mainspring is 90% of the force needed. Simply drop in a lighter mainspring and adjust pressure and you should be able to acheive "freeflow" like anti chopping.

Unlike the mag in which the lvl10 is needed to get no chop, all parts perform the same function and most perform it closely together. IE stock frontblock will perform the same function as a tricked out palmer front block with just a few probably unnoticable exceptions, the only notable being the lpr.

In Cockers quality of parts is not the most important function as the tuning of the cocker. Drop in a bunch of AKA parts, Palmer Front Block but don't both with springs, hammer weight, valve spring...

And you could very well have an expensive gas hog.

I touch up on a few topics here...

http://www.air-powered.com/index.php?act=ST&f=17&t=3235

Az

**no_doz** · 08-10-2003, 12:05 PM

i found a website that shows everything i need. Im going to see how cheap a cocker can be made lol.

OK its time for me to make a cocker....

OK its time for me to make a cocker....

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