The Power of Magnets!!!

[powerofthegospel]

Alright guys, i think this works (meaning doesnt hurt your gun in any way), and if it does it just halved my trigger pull. I superglued one magnet to the back of my trigger, then superglued another to the frame, so they attract eachother. I gased it up and the result: the magnets caused my trigger to only go half way back to its origional position. The bolt still recharges fine and it shoots faster than i've ever seen it (it's a classic by the way). If ANYONE has any ideas on how this will hurt my gun in any way please let me know. I'm gonna get some pics up as soon as i can, but my camera's actin up.

Peace,
J.J.

Oh ya, and if anyone else tries this out on their trigger frame let me know how it works for you.

[tony3]

I did a mod similar to this except i put a spring over the sear rod, dont do it, it chips your sear, agd says not to do trigger jobs for a reason, it cost me 30 bucks to fix it

[powerofthegospel]

sorry, but in what way is that similar to putting magnets on your trigger frame?

[TheTramp]

Magnets are the wave of the future. Most markers can be quickly and cheaply moded with magnets. I've replaised the trigger springs in both my Tribal and my Impulse with magnets. A bit different feel than my E-Mags trigger (opposit direction of force) but I still really like them.

Good job working it out with the Mag frame!

[JAM]

along this magnets line,

I was thinking that taking the trigger magnet and the HES on a EMag and moving them down to the bottom of the trigger might be good. It might interfere w/mech mode, but let's just talk e-mode-

the bottom of the trigger would move further than the middle of it as it swings, so the trigger could be set a lot shorter while the magnet still moves enough to trip the HES- PLUS, it would make the trigger super easy to make into a blade...

thoughts?

[JAM]

this is what i was talking about... the bottome of the trigger moves the most, so having the "switch" there would allow for the shortest pull...

[hAppy]

we did that to my friends bushy 3 weeks ago, works great, feels great. works well for any electronic trigger frames that have a microswitch

[powerofthegospel]

dang, i am too excited about this for my own good. It looks like i finally did something that works! Here are some pics, they're really bad quality, but my digital camera was like $10 (because all my extra cash goes to paintball). Anyways, the frame is a medusa in case anyone is wondering. This is a pic of the trigger when it's gassed up.

Peace,
J.J.

[Gadget]

Anything that adds resistance to the 'return' stroke of the trigger (and re-latching of the bolt) is going to impede the sear's return in some way - that can lead to the bolt not being gripped fully which can lead to chipped sears and bolts.

If it works for you, great - but this kinda thing has been tried by a bunch of people for the last decade - there's a reason why no-one does it for long :)

[magman007]

Originally posted by JAM
this is what i was talking about... the bottome of the trigger moves the most, so having the "switch" there would allow for the shortest pull...

sorry JAM, you are forgetting trigger hysterisis. The trigger stil needs to travel a certain point through the mid way or the hysterisis, before it can fire, also the trigger needs to have enough pre and post travel ,for the swith to reset its self, this conts micros witches HES etc

[kilaueakid]

Here's a pic of my latest creation....I completely relocated the hall sensor and went with smaller magents mounted in the part of the trigger that hits the selector switch.

[wobbles82]

What is that beast you post of? BANISHED I SAY TO YOU. Lol, is that an emag with a foregrip or wha?

[FooTemps]

Originally posted by wobbles82
What is that beast you post of? BANISHED I SAY TO YOU. Lol, is that an emag with a foregrip or wha?

linky to it... here: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=97400