Viking or E-blade Orr-acle

[ZyperioN]

i have one thing to say:

viking = over 2000 shots off a 68/45, and it's hella fast

'nuff said

[Steelrat]

I gotta tell you, my freeflow eblade is every bit as efficient as my viking, so its possible to get very efficient eblades. I think the primary reasons why I would recommend the Viking are ROF, ease of use, and ease of maintenance.

The viking is a faster gun than the eblade, plain and simple. Not to say eblades arent fast, they are. Its just that a properly setup viking is as fast a gun as you can find. Its also an easy gun to shoot quickly, and using it only requires that you switch it on. Thats it. And kiss breaks goodbye. The only reason I had a break yesterday was because I left it in simulate and outran my Halo. And the maintenance required on a viking is 3 drops of lube in the ASA, and a little oil on the bolt. Thats it.

You are not paying for the AKA name, because its still relatively unknown (I am always asked if its a Matrix). Its price alone shows that it is a veritable bargain. About $800 for a gun that equals, if not outperforms, the $1000 DYE matrix. And dont forget that the price includes a LIFETIME warranty, including parts and labor.

But, to be fair, you would be happy with an eblade to. They can be fast, efficient, light, and smooth. I have no problem shooting well with mine. Just please, in the name of everything holy, do not by an e-orracle. Shocktech, Eclipse, and especially freeflows are all far superior, with better parts and performance. Heck, freeflow even includes a lifetime warranty and lifetime upgrading of parts as they produce better ones.

[sneakyhacker420]

viking

and what do you mean e-blades have no kick? they have plenty of kick


plus the viking has WAS and eye, which makes it just as good, if not much better than an e-blade cocker

it also has less moving parts, is easier to service, already has top-of-the-line parts from AKA, and AKA has MUCH better tech service IMO


just my .02

[Steelrat]

Eblades do not necessarily have a lot of kick. Kick is a function of the weight of the back block and bolt, and the pressure driving the ram. If you have a light back block, and use lower pressure on the ram (Like freeflows do) then it produces very little kick.

And some manufacturers, such as freeflow, provide service that is better than AKA, though AKA does give some great service

I enjoy shooting both.

[GT]

Good call Steel.

To be perfectly honest there are only a hand full of high end guns that I wouldnt mind owning that are actually worth the price of admission. that being said a viking is probally the best deal in paintball right now next to the BKO.


I played, well screwed around, with my vik this weekend. It is insanly fast and much smaller than an angel lcd.

pic what you like and dont listen to anyone eleses opinion.

[GT]

Originally posted by afrankart

Think about it, due to its closed bolt design, the eblade would have to perform 3 functions faster than the Viking performs 2 functions to complete a full cycle.

My .02

that donest make much since considering that while under rapid fire no matter what gun, open/closed, is used must all have the same cycle.

[MaChu]

If you do go the Eblade Cocker route here are my top 3 suggestions for Eblade canidates:

1.Works
2.Freeflow
3.Shocktech

[louie]

If you have money to burn and want an Eblade, get the Nexus. Its Planet Eclipse's flagship cocker. They have them in really nice colors too. But MSRP is $1400-$1500, I think, I'm not sure.

Custom Vikings are nice but the problem with them is the insane waiting time. Although the Destructive, Immortal, and Featherlights are uber sexy. PBNation has a really good AKA forum (I don't know of others to compare to though). The AKA techs over at PBNation keep hinting that they are coming out with something new, so it might be a good idea to wait until spring comes around to get a new marker from AKA.

As for eblades giving kick, it really just depends on your set up. How high your LPR is set, how heavy your bolt and blackblocks are, if you have your backblock distanced properly from the body, etc. My eblade and mech cocker have no noticable kick from what I notice when I play. Unless your marker is kicking like a mule, is kick really that much of a problem?

I think either gun can shoot faster than you can pull the trigger so I don't see why speed is such a big deal.

An Eblade set up will set you back more if you get it new but a used cocker is priced pretty low even with Eblade + upgrades. Vikings on the other hand have really good resale value. Used Vikings with WAS/eyes/new noids sell for pretty much around the same price as a new Viking with WAS/eyes/new noids.

[Rope a Dope]

Viking.

I have used both in games by friends that have both.

My buddies Viking had the WAS board, razor trigger and WAS eyes with covers. That thing ripped!!! I very much liked it.

The e-blade....

eh.. some people like cockers.. I really don't. Just me. If you like cockers, then it will be tough to figure out which one you want, I never liked cockers so I'd go with a viking any day.

[afrankart]

Originally posted by gtrsi


that donest make much since considering that while under rapid fire no matter what gun, open/closed, is used must all have the same cycle.

Correct me if I am wrong, but a closed bolt goes through these cycles. Shoot paint, open breech, close breech.

Open bolt has close/fire (one function) and open.

If open is no faster than closed, why are Vikings noticeably faster than the excalios?

[Acer12]

I keep hearing there is a long wait for the viking. How long is the wait? is it worth the wait or should i just go down to kent and get one?

[Steelrat]

No, you can find new vikings right now. The wait tends to be for custom ones, like JMJ featherlights, JMJ crusaders, or immortals. Just make sure that, if you order one, you order the eyes and the eye covers at the same time. Its a completely different gun with the eyes.

[Acer12]

Sounds good. i think i am getting unmilled. so i can get it custom milled in kent.

[Steelrat]

Keep in mind that once you mill it, your warranty is voided.

[Ov3rmind]

Actually steelrat, I think you can have one milled and retain the warranty. The onyl thing is you have to buy a raw body (among other raw parts) directly from AKA. Then you can send them off to be milled and anoed, and once they're back, send it to AKA for assembly.