Do e-mags have the same 3.2 problem?

[NJPaint]

My micro-Emag is enroute to me and the previous owner said that he got it back from AGD a week ago with the new 3.2 software. Is it possible that this gun will have the same problem as the X-mags have been having with 3.2?

[hitech]

Yes. It just depends on the solenoid.

[Dayspring]

It will happen to ANY emag version if the solenoid is wired a certain way.

Only way to find out is to turn it on and find out.

If you DO have the issue, you re-solder the wires in the opposite locations.

If you don't, you're good.

The reason behind the problem is that the HES was picking up the megnetic field from the solenoid. If it's wired a certain way, the poles on the field won't trigger the gun. If it's wired another way, the magnetic field from the noid will trigger the gun.

[tmnothing]

So what exactly does the gun do if it has this "issue" that I've been reading about. My new xmag has 3.2 on it and I havn't noticed anything wrong with it, but what should I be looking for? I havn't read exactly what the problem with the new software is.

[Dayspring]

3.2 includes a shot buffering feature. Helps smooth out the rhythm of shots.

The "problem" is that you can feather the trigger and find a certain point in the stroke where the gun will go full auto. Some get full auto just by pulling and holding the trigger.

It wasn't there in 2.x software b/c the solenoid dwell time was enough to release the noid and it's magnetic field before the window to accept another shot opened again. 3.x software has a smaller window and saw the noid's field as a trigger pull, and would get into a loop, hence the full auto.

[tmnothing]

Alright I've determined that my x has that problem. I took apart the x down to the trigger frame but I cant figure out how to get the solenoid out of the frame. I took the screw off the back of the frame underneath the grip but I cant figure out how to get it out with the sear still attached. Also, I see that the wires arent readily exposed on the solenoid, are they easy to get to once the solenoid is out?

[Wynken]

I think that most people are soldering the points on the board, not the solenoid.

It's a fairly easy job, if you know what you're doing. I wouldn't recommend it you don't have much soldering experience.

I did it without taking the board out. It's kinda cramped in there, but it seemed easier than working the board out of the frame.

[Miscue]

I've been just snipping the wires, strip insulation, switch, twist together, solder, electrical tape.

[tmnothing]

Actually yea after looking at the board I realized I would just switch them on the board. I posted before I took a closer look at the situation. I put it all back together and I'm not having the problem anymore but I didnt try it with paint, I'm gonna try it with paint tomorrow morning.

I did run into a problem though, I couldnt find an allen key that would fit the grub screw to adjust the trigger pull. Does anyone know the exact size?

[pbzmag]

Originally posted by Dayspring
3It wasn't there in 2.x software b/c the solenoid dwell time was enough to release the noid and it's magnetic field before the window to accept another shot opened again. 3.x software has a smaller window and saw the noid's field as a trigger pull, and would get into a loop, hence the full auto.

I have the 2.4 firmware and had that problem when I pulled the trigger to a certain point. I changed the leads and the problem went away. A few others also reported the problem.