New Warpfeed electronics

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  • WickedAirSportz

    #121
    Yes, faster (9.6 x 2 = 19.2 volts vs the normal 18 volts). The problem is life. You don't want to have to charge your batteries between games!

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    • Da1spaz247
      S.S Bandit Captain
      • Jan 2003
      • 288

      #122
      So, I just want to be absolutely sure of one thing. Will the new board work with my intelliframe like the old one does? It is just a roller switch inside the grip.


      Also, I used to be OBCESSED with RC cars!!! What contributions did you make to ESCs etc.
      Check out our lame little website I threw together with the little HTML that I taught myself!
      S.S Bandits Home Page

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      • WickedAirSportz

        #123
        If your Warp trigger plugs into the Warp's 3/32" phone plug, then yes, the TurboWarp will work with your existing setup.

        I designed the battery conditioning electronics that took the industry by storm. I had two products rated #1 by R/C Car Action magazine. These were the Battery Wizard Jr. and the Smart Tray. Pro-Match Racing now owns these products. I also designed the battery blaster that Pro-Match Racing uses to get the insane numbers out of their cells!

        I did some work with ESCs, and transponder systems, but I got out of the industry before these were finished.

        I still race periodically (GT, T3, B3, and RS4-Pro). I also have a T-Maxx for the backyard. :)
        Last edited by Guest; 08-21-2003, 06:51 PM.

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        • sniper1rfa
          (Not a Wang Force member.)
          • Aug 2001
          • 1107

          #124
          Jim, you forgot to mention that alkaline batteries are rated down to .8V per cell, iirc. :)

          the problem is not wholly rechargeable batteries, but instead is rechargeable 9Vs. The cell stack in those things makes any sort of high current draw impossible. I agree with you on this point, and tend to stay away from rechargeable 9Vs where possible. They definately cant run a warp.

          However, larger cells, such as those used in my packs, act a little differently. For applications such as warp feeds and HALOs, where the voltage actually plays a large role (you dont want to bring your HALO down to .8V a cell, it will suck), mAh tends to even out. An AA NiMH will last almost as long as an alkaline AA, and be capable of much higher current. Remember, not many people use alkalines in RC...

          Just making sure you dont shed the wrong light on my products. :)

          On a different note, did you ever fly r/c planes? I do with my grandfather, mostly pure sailplanes (2 gentle ladys, a segita and a couple others), with some motor-launch sailplanes and three powered electrics (my fav is the piper cub).
          "The Fine Print: Discontinue use if your eyeballs suddenly get way smaller."

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          • hitech
            Not a shedder of vortices
            • Nov 2001
            • 4775

            #125
            First a comment on batteries. I have used 8.4 volt rechargeable batteries (in parallel) in my warp without any problems. You just have to recharge them every time. Then again, I don't use them anymore...

            Second, even though I don't have any problems with the stock warp board this sounds like a good idea. Jim, as the voltage of the batteries drops are you going to maintain the spin rate? Interesting ideas.


            Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
            Hitech is the man.... :eek: - Blennidae
            The only Hitech Lubricant

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            • WickedAirSportz

              #126
              Yes, I fly planes. I fly mostly 1/2A pattern ships. Gotta have the 100+mph with no throttle control. :)

              Yes, the motor speed is maintained constant regardless of the battery voltage (until the low battery warning comes on, indicating that the battery voltage is no longer capable of producing constant motor speeds).

              I agree that Nimh and NiCd batteries are the way to go with the AA and C sizes. You just need to use an additional battery to make the difference in voltage.

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              • Lord_Whoopass
                Capt. of U.P. RAGE
                • Feb 2003
                • 813

                #127
                Very Interested in this Board... Too long have I had to wire up my warp with an on/off and 12volt mod.. But you said that you put the On/off switch where the primer is? Is there still a primer on the gun?

                Tyler
                CLICK TO AIM ME!!!

                "If you can't stand the RAGE, get the hell out of the CAGE"

                WWW.PAINTBALLER187.COM <- For all you trading needs!

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                • WickedAirSportz

                  #128
                  The prime button is also now the on/off and program button.

                  Comment

                  • xXhAppyAznXx
                    Ken, Eagle Scout
                    • Mar 2003
                    • 2473

                    #129
                    hmm i like that board

                    tom is gonna be jealous!

                    how much you sellin em for, im sure you ve already said how much, but this thread is huge, and im not gonna read through it...


                    I do know the AO sig rules, I just want a free sig pic, that's all! :mad:

                    My Gun CollectionhAppy's Official B/S/T thread - Feedback

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                    • WickedAirSportz

                      #130
                      There has been no price set yet.

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                      • ReTro Boy
                        Ultra Evil Specialist...
                        • Jan 2002
                        • 576

                        #131
                        Ok, I'm too lazy to read all of this, so sorry if it has been covered...

                        WAS, I have an intellifed warp. Is there a way to make a jumper to go from the warp to the revvy...In other words, could the warp activation trigger the revvy to spin? Also, could the revvy be powered with the warp batteries...possibly through the same intellifeed cable?

                        My Feedback

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                        • WickedAirSportz

                          #132
                          Please read the entire thread. I addressed this same question already.

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                          • thecavemankevin
                            the living un-banned
                            • Feb 2001
                            • 4346

                            #133
                            Originally posted by WickedAirSportz
                            Yes, faster (9.6 x 2 = 19.2 volts vs the normal 18 volts). The problem is life. You don't want to have to charge your batteries between games!
                            i just wonder, i never had a problem with them running out either. I probably don't shoot as much as you either. but shooting even a case a day they are still ripping it up at the end of the day. I also only use one plain view at 9.6, not 2.

                            They have been working great for me for over a year and a half now....but hey your the expert and keep on using what works for you. Just not sure why plainviews rechargables aren't working for you?


                            Quote: MarkM
                            "virus attacks have been dealt with, same with back door nasties. ."

                            My feed back

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                            • Hoplon
                              Registered User
                              • Sep 2002
                              • 222

                              #134
                              Realistically, how many bps could i expect this to feed at? I never saw this question answered but i saw the part where you mentioned that the motors will spin faster so i just though i'd ask.

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                              • WickedAirSportz

                                #135
                                I won't know exactly how fast it will be until the new PCBs arrive and one is tested.

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