Help with advice for frustrated Mag owner

[MagMcBride]

I live in WVA near the VA/WV/MD line and NOONE around here really even knows what a Mag is so I get little to no experience with upgrades and such on the Mag b4 I buy it. My question is this: How good is the X-Valve? I want to get a LX but if want upgrade later to a X-Valve then I have a LX just laying around. How difficult is it to get the Reactive trigger to start getting into a rhythm and how fast does it shoot in its rhythm? How much lighter is the X-Valve than the classic AIR Valve? Any help would be killer since even the "pro" shops around here dont even service mags, let alone carry upgrades for them. Thanks

[GA Devil]

X valve is awsome. Its a new world to a classic valve. If im not mistaken on numbers but a classic valve will only cycle 16 times a sec max where i believe the x is 26 a second. If staying mechanical on it i would recommend a intelleframe. If you want to convert it to electronic the hyperframe by centerflag works great.

[MicroMiniMe]

Pick up a used Emag or RT Pro valve here on AO in the misc sale section if you want Level 10 and a good RT valve. That will only be slightly lighter than an AIR valve but probably $50 less than a used X-valve. X-valve has both still and is used around $230-$250 and is like a couple oz lighter than the others. But used aluminum versus used stainless and you might have scratches. Just be sure to have your stock on/off if you get a used emag valve or RTP valve, the on/off is different in those.

Althought with a full ULE mag the whole gun is lighter than an AIR valve :)

[Muzikman]

The X vavle is 3oz lighter than the Retro valve. I am not sure how mich lighter the retro is than the classic (if any). There are a few things to think about when you are talking about an X valve / Retro valve. Input pressure can control the amount of reactivness the trigger has. On/Off pin length can control the amount of reactiveness the trigger has. That being said, an adjustable tank is nice so that you can get the reactiveness you are most comfortable with.

Getting use to a reactive trigger does take some getting use to and it can be short stroked, so you have to watch while you are learning. the best thing to do is sit in the house with the gun gased up and just practice with the trigger(but please remember to put a barrel plug in).

[Thourne]

The Retro line of valves are awesome. I just upgraded from a Classic valve to an Emag valve (same as RT just has Emag written on the side of it), and I will tell you the difference is beyond awesome. Even not getting into the rhythm it shoots significantly faster that the classic and it is much easier to rip on.

Like MicroMiniMe stated, I would recommend getting a used RT (old modular type that will fit the Classic body) over getting the X Valve. The X valve is nice, but it is so much more expensive. You have to completely lose your old classic valve and then pay $225 plus shipping. I payed $135 for my Emag valve (shipped) and I still have my classic valve. With the price of used parts I picked up all the other parts to make a complete gun for $55 (minus barrel I already have an extra) and now I will have two mags, a RT and a Classic. They both shoot good and if I ever decide to sell the classic I'll almost recoup all the money I invested in getting 2 mags and I'll still have a RT.

Now if you want to eventually go ULE I would get the X, but since everyone else is going ULE getting the old stuff is very cheap right now and you'll get the same performance.

[MagMcBride]

See I also am looking for a LX for the Mag do you still think I should get a Retro Valve and then buy a LX too?

[personman]

Ahh Man the ReTro valve is SOO much lighter than the Classic valve. Pick up an Xvalve/Retro and then pick up the classic and it will feel like a big hunk of stainless steel... and thats what it is...

[MicroMiniMe]

X-valves and emag valves come stock with a level 10. Hence the reference to buying an emag valve used for like $160-$180 with level 10 included and tuned in.
:)

[MagMcBride]

Help

I knew about the X coming with Lx, but I did not know that the emag's bolt did as well....but the crisis I am having is whether or not I should buy a X-Valve, or if I should look for a used Retro Valve with LX...O BTW, what is the difference between the Retro and EMag Valves?

[personman]

No, none of them are 1/2 alluminum and 1/2 stainless. The regulator on the retro and emag valves are made out of alluminum if that is what you are talking about.
If you put a Automag on/off in a Retro, RT Pro or Emag valve, it wont work. The only difference between the retro, RT Pro, and emag valves is the lazer engraving on the outside, the on/off pin length, and the emag has a quad oring as opposed to a urathane one.
The main reason the RT Pro style rail is better than the automag rail is tighter tolerences. You will see a little less wear with the RT Pro rail, but it isnt worth the price, unless you are looking for something that looks a tad better.
You dont have to change the quad oring out if you happen to get an emag valve. Hell I still have the quad oring in mine from when my xvalve used to be in my emag. I personally dont see a difference.. I dont know what it is. The only thing you need to look out for is the on/off pin. You will most likely have trouble with this little doodad. You might have to take a file to it to make the gun fire if it is too long, or you might have to buy a longer one if your gun is going runaway. If you get one that works fine, thats great.
The emag valve did not come with level 10 until the all alluminum 'EMAX' valve came out. If it does not have EMAX on it, it might not have level 10 (ask the seller), as it did not come stock with it. However, the seller has most likely upgraded it to level 10. Make sure you know whether it has level 10 and all the level 10 parts included in the kit when you buy the valve.
By the way, there is only about a 3 ounce difference between the Emag/RT Pro/Retro valves and the alluminum versions. The only other reason to get an all alluminum one is because they look nicer, and colored versions are about to be released. I hope I answered most of your questions.

[MagMcBride]

Yes, thank you.... now all I have to do is find a Retro Valve with LX for a decent price lol!

P.S. Where would I find a longer on/off pin?

[nerobro]

Guys you're a little off on a few things here. The RT's ALWAYS had an aluminum back half. Even the "classic" RT's. If you want to get really technical, X vlaves still have a SS powertube.

Any mag on/off will work for you, in any valve. (more or less) Emag, with quad o-ring. Classic on/off assembly. And if your valve is a 2 o=ring type (classic, early retros, emags), even a ULT.

The total weight loss form a classic to an X is something on the order of 8oz. there's a 3oz weight loss between a retro and an X.

[S.S Bandit1]

You might have to take a file to it to make the gun fire if it is too long, or you might have to buy a longer one if your gun is going runaway. If you get one that works fine, thats great.
[/B]

[personman]

Originally posted by MagMcBride
Yes, thank you.... now all I have to do is find a Retro Valve with LX for a decent price lol!

P.S. Where would I find a longer on/off pin?

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?action=cat.prodInfo&productID=108&categoryID=23

That is the item in the store.. for some reason you cant pick the length, so I would call up AGD to order one. Or you can talk to Tunaman here on AO and he could most likely hook you up. Or you can just send it to a tech if its not working right, and they will fix it for you.. :)

[MagMcBride]

Thank you so much guys I can't tell you how much this helps to just get some friggin' input. All of my friends here keep telling me to sell my Mag, but it is just so easy to work on, and it looks so killer (all chrome and ss, except for gay plastic Powerfeed plug). I am just tired of everyone here (including licensed AGD dealers) telling me to sell my Mag for a Cocker (not that I wouldn't like to have that as my second gun).:)