Poll: Logic LT-3 or Fireblade triggers for mech mags?

[LudavicoSoldier]

I dont know about you, but I am quasi unhappy with the slop in my y-frames trigger. I had the exact same slop on my intelliframe trigger. We need a drop in, fully adjustable aftermarket trigger for our mech mags! I would like a rear travel stop, as well as provision for eliminating side-to-side slop. I LOVE the look of the Fireblade, but I am not all that interested in an EMag. Coolhand: with AGD stopping production of their E line, are you going to consider offering triggers for mech mags? AO: would you have any interest in aftermarket intelliframe triggers?

[LudavicoSoldier]

Ack! So many views but no replies to the poll or post!

[LudavicoSoldier]

ttt!

[Z-man]

well you know that you can adjust the length of your sear pin dont you? That is how you adjust the trigger on a Mech Mag. It should be ~1mm from the trigger when the gun is gassed up.

The TL-63 and FireBlade triggers are for the electronic markers and other than looks, I see no advantage to them. It's not like you have magnets on your gun to adjust them.

[LudavicoSoldier]

Yup, I am aware that you can adjust the sear rod. I simply think the trigger could look better (a real blade trigger? straight?) and be a bit less sloppy. Just my 2 cents...

[Vanced]

spleefstylez,

Well... I don't know if this option will give you all your looking, and I am not totally 100% up on it.. but the frame in the works from Benchmark the Medusa is a fully adjustable Mag Trigger run with magnets that might give you more of what you want.. here is a link to an old thread with a lot of info of it.. I know a few of the proto types are also floating around but haven't seen one up close to give an opinion but if you use the search feature you might find more on this frame... I did ask PTP about them the other day when I was on the phone with them and they said they are close but tweeking final bugs out of um...

Hope this info might help you...

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=45271&highlight=Medusa

[LudavicoSoldier]

Ive seen those, they do look nice, BUT I am in love with my Y-Frame. Thanks for the info!

[RRfireblade]

I might consider making a Mech trigger if there was enough interest.

I also don't like the Blade/Double trigger hybrid thing that is offered for the Intelli/Y grip.

Say,a Fireblade minus the magnets with an overtravel stop built in.It's not out of the question.

Jay.

[Automaggot68]

I'm actually having alot of trouble adjusting my sear rod. Any tips? I just bought a used mag, and I've tried to mess with the sear, but well It's really tight. I've tried pliers, vicegrips, and heating it up. Argh. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

[chizle97]

DO NOT MESS WITH THE SEAR ROD. it is set like that so you couldnt change it easily because if you mess with that, you will throw the timing off and totaly be screwed. BTW ide totaly by a Fireblade if it was for mechs.

[LudavicoSoldier]

Originally posted by RRfireblade
I might consider making a Mech trigger if there was enough interest.

I also don't like the Blade/Double trigger hybrid thing that is offered for the Intelli/Y grip.

Say,a Fireblade minus the magnets with an overtravel stop built in.It's not out of the question.

Jay.

Now THATS what I like to hear. I'll keep this near the top to try and gauge interest.

[CoolHand]

Originally posted by chizle97
DO NOT MESS WITH THE SEAR ROD. it is set like that so you couldnt change it easily because if you mess with that, you will throw the timing off and totaly be screwed. . . . .

Man, its guys like you that scare newbies into never learning how to work on their markers.

The sear rod does NOT control the timing. The sear itself has the timing built into it (when the On/Off is pushed verses when the bolt is released).

What the sear rod DOES control, is how far you have to pull the trigger to get something to happen.

Too long, and the sear wears on the bolt (cause it never fully catches), too short, and the marker chuffs (cause you can't get a full stroke on it before the trigger bottoms out).

You are supposed to adjust it, that's why its threaded.

Sorry to vent in your thread, but that comment is one of my peaves, so I can't let it go unanswered.

[RobAGD]

Actually the Rod is thread to allow factory adjustments from the factor to account for tolerance issues with the Sear piviot and clevis holes.

IT IS NOT USER ADJUSTABLE !!

and it controls the speed at which things happen in the guns as far as the timing of the On/off pin closing and the sear releasing. The Rod length changes the speed and timing that these happen at.

You can search the History forum for long talks about this between BlackVCG, Tom, Me and Brad and Kayle.

There is a reason for over travel, it HAS to be there. The side to side wiggle prevents binding on the trigger from dirt.

You can remove some of the side to side with .005 Shim stock. Just like a Electro trigger you cant get your best speed from a trigger thats too short or too "tight", you need over travel to insure full pulls and releases.

In Simple words Dont F withit.

-Robert

yea yea yea the word 'the' and I have had a long standing love hate relationship. just ask TSC and KB about that

[Z-man]

:) I have not seen "teh" used that much since the last JeffK article on SA.

Right I know they the pin is set at a particular length by the factory but if its screwed in to far and the rest of the marker is in spec, unscrewing it a bit and then locking it back in with about 1mm space will solve that problem. Of course, if you take it to far your stinking valve won't reset.

[LudavicoSoldier]

ttt