Sydarm FAQ?

[Muzikman]

I think that's a little high...

The tanks working pressure is about that. CO2 at about 80 degrees is some place right around 800psi.

[Beemer]

uhh maybe 1200????????/

[Jack & Coke]

What is the difference between the "tanks working pressure", and the "working pressure" of the CO2?

Are we talking about the same thing?

Maybe I misread the part about 1800 psi...? It is late you know...

[Burphel]

Working pressure is the pressure a tank is designed to be used at. Going above working pressure can cause defects in your tank and decrease it's safety at any pressure. Run your tank above working pressure and you're increasing your chances of blowing burst discs and failing hydro. Also, everyone involved will laugh at you if you get injured as a result and try to sue.

If ya don't believe me check out Catalina Cylinders under either Paintball Cylinders or CO2 Cylinders. Now, look on the side of a CO2 tank, you'll see 1800 stamped on there somewhere, not 800, not 1200. Now if you look on a Nitro tank, it will have it's fill pressure stamped or printed on it.

Test pressure is how high the tank will go without blowing up. Usually at least 1000psi higher than the working pressure for safety. To find out a tank's test pressure, you'll probably have to contact the company that made it. They don't exactly advertise that information because there's too many idiots out there who'd try to fill to it. Run your tank approaching test pressure and you're taking your life in your hands.

As Muz mentioned, CO2 in reasonably nice weather runs 800 psi, but in very hot weather it can spike up significantly higher than that because the liquid boils off (or lower in the winter). Burst discs are usually set a little above a tank's working pressure. Most of us have had a nitro tank overfilled abit at one time or another, and the discs usually don't go off there, but you haven't been in paintball very long if you haven't seen one go on a CO2 tank. Nitro tanks aren't filled lower because atmospheric temperatures are well above N2's boiling point. Since compressed air is still mostly N2, the properties aren't significantly different.

[Arawn]

Someone has to invent micro HPA tanks, heh...

I believe they already have, although I'm not sure if they are compatable with the Sydarm. From what I've been able to learn they are 8g N2 cartridges used by brewers and wine bottlers.
I posted on the Tinker's Guild about this and have gotten some informative, if inconclusive feedback.

Tinkers thread

B.

[GoatBoy]

How about if AGD just gave up the AIR back half and replaced it with something CO2 tolerant?

[Jack & Coke]

How about if AGD just gave up the AIR back half and replaced it with something CO2 tolerant?

You mean something like... say... a Stab?

Is a Stab really that much better than other regs on digesting liquid CO2?

The stab on my Blazer seems occationally creep a bit with liquid CO2 (during rapid fire).

[Muzikman]

For a regulator, a Stabalizer is amazing. It will stop almost all liquid within reason. I find it best to run with an anti-siphon tank. But even when I don't it still does a better job than any other reg on the market and/or expansion chamber. So to say that it is going to be perfect when dumping liquid CO2 into it might be asking a bit much, but there is none better IMO.

[GoatBoy]

You mean something like... say... a Stab?

Is a Stab really that much better than other regs on digesting liquid CO2?

The stab on my Blazer seems occationally creep a bit with liquid CO2 (during rapid fire).

Well, I don't know how much better it is against all other regs, but it sure as hell is better than the AIR when it comes to CO2.

I'm sure this isn't a new idea, it's just usually shot down when it's suggested for main markers for "performance reasons" or whatever. The Sydarm's situation is rather different though.

I'd vote to make a dummy back AIR valve "collar" end that on one side screwed to the normal place, but on the other side was just an ASA adapter so you could screw a stab right in there. Run a stainless hardline from the CO2 cartridge mount (front, under barrel) to the Stab. But alas, I'm not AGD am I?


As far as the creep on your blazer... have you tried this with a different reg than the stab on there? I figure you'll see the same thing with any other functioning reg + CO2 + rapid fire on your gun. It might... have nothing to do with the stab.

[Jack & Coke]

As far as the creep on your blazer... have you tried this with a different reg than the stab on there? I figure you'll see the same thing with any other functioning reg + CO2 + rapid fire on your gun. It might... have nothing to do with the stab.

I havn't really tried to look into the cause. I've just been using my 45/4500 HPA tank.

I just read all this stuff about how the stab handles CO2 with no problems, then I look at mine and wonder WTF? it's brand new and creeps (the gauge starts to climb from 425 psi to 550-600 psi after rapid fire). I have an AS 20oz tank going right into the stab. Maybe I need to take it apart and re-lub the piston? I'll check into it...

[Brophog]

Let it break in. Every stab I've ever owned had a good 3-4 thousand shot break in period. Just make sure to run some oil through that stab regularly, and it will break in just fine.

[Jack & Coke]

Let it break in. Every stab I've ever owned had a good 3-4 thousand shot break in period. Just make sure to run some oil through that stab regularly, and it will break in just fine.

...so before yours "broke in", it would creep too?

(last comments regarding stab... return to sydarm talk )

[Brophog]

Just a bit. We're not talking a lot, maybe 50-100 psi. Once the reg sets though, it's golden.

[Muzikman]

Yes, the older (more broke in) a Stab is the better it seems to work. This really goes for any reg, including the mag. I like to have atleast 2000 shots on a rebuilt mag just to make sure all seals are set and broke in.