Nubbins are the detents used in twistlock style barrels, they go on the barrel and are held in by one or both of the barrel orings.
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You said you were looking for peices i have a whole mag being parted out link in sig
Manike-It's still early days. One thing for sure is that the future is going to be interesting, and we intend to be a BIG part of it.Comment
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Ok here are my two lists.
Stock plain and simple mag(this is not bad just costs less which looks like what your goin for) :
classic or RT valve
classic rail
Intelliframe
vert adapter
foregrip
Tricked setup (the more expensive setup):
ULE body
Xvalve
RPG frame
Rogue Rail
15* ASA
Foregrip
Those are the 2 diff options i could think of if your gonna build a mad, you could always take parts from each list to.Comment
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I wasnt thinkin that far down the line, in most cases if you buy a rail it comes with those parts. Well not always but if it doesnt just buy one. Other that that small thing you pointed out those are both full setups...i think lol.Comment
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Im out for the night, please feel free to pm me with any questions though and I will get back with you as soon as i can.Comment
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The misc parts you need are a front frame screw, field strip screw, sear assembly, sear pin, rail bushing and twist lock assembly. The two screws are pretty basic, one bolts through the front of the trigger frame, through the rail, and into the body. The other bolts through the back of the trigger frame, through the rail bushing and into the valve. The rail bushing is a tube that sticks out the underside of the rail and into the frame to eliminate slop on the frame, and is almost always included with the rail. The sear assembly and pin drop through the rail and into the trigger frame behind the trigger - used to fire the Mag. You'll need a sear pin and sear assembly specific to your rail, either AM/MM (AutoMag/MiniMag) or RTPro (For EMag and RTPro rails).
Finally, the Twist Lock assembly is on the front of the rail. When you place the body on the rail, the Twist Lock assembly sticks up through the body and just forward of the breech. It's a spring loaded bearing which "locks" the barrel into place. The reason your barrel isn't tight in the body is because you don't have the rail, and therefore the Twist Lock assembly. Since you have a Classic body and Twist Lock barrels, you'll need a rail with the Twist Lock assembly included.
Note that ULE bodies (and all new bodies for that matter) use Autococker threaded barrels, as opposed to Mag Twist Lock barrels. Because of this, if you buy a rail used from somebody, be certain to ask if the Twist Lock assembly is included, it's not a given. The Twist Lock assembly is removed from rails which use ULE bodies, so some owners may not have them, or think to put them back into the rail when they sell them.Comment
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Cool some one building their first mag. Have fun with it. make it your own.
:hail: AGD :hail: CCI :hail:Comment
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< $100. AM/MM rail with trimmings will be around $25, classic valve w/ Level 7 bolt about $40, sear and pin probably < $10, single trigger stock frame someone would probably just give you.Originally posted by p8ntball365
You'll probably have another $30 in the two screws, a basic bolt on ASA, and hoses & fittings. Things get considerably more expensive when you start looking at Intelliframes and RT/X Valves, but they're not necessary to build a stock Mag from spare parts.
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