Should I shorten my on/off pin?

[trains are bad]

I can't get my mag to runaway. I can't get it to sweetspot even with the tank cranked all the way up till it leaks.

Now, I don't want to either, but I do want max reactivity and I have to run my flatline cranked way up to get it.

If I shortened my on/off pin, would it maybe be more reactive at a lower pressure so that I could run a sensible output pressure like 900 psi instead of 1150?

I have an xvalve with a regular on/off (no ult).

Is a quad oring better? An old retro valve I have has one in it. If so where can I get one?

[68magOwner]

id say your lucky if you cant sweetspot it, makes it legal, anyway, no, dont mess wiht on/off, could mess up gun

[trains are bad]

how?

[NJPaint]

how?

Too short of an on/off pin will allow/make the gun go full auto, even with out pulling the trigger (as soon as gas is turned on). It will just keep going back and forth between "on" and "off". I don't think you should mess with your on/off pin. If you want to try a smaller pin, get an extra one and mod it all you want. Heck, buy a shorter one from a dealer, or from someone near you (We had to mess with 5-6 pins to get my e-mag from going full auto).

[hAppy]

A LITTLE bit of change will throw off the length of the pin significantly. Don't do it
Anyways, I accidently BROKE my on/off pin, so as soon as I gassed it up, it went full auto. Scary.

[trains are bad]

Too short of an on/off pin will allow/make the gun go full auto, even with out pulling the trigger (as soon as gas is turned on).

And.........................I'm out 8 bucks. How does that hurt my marker?

A LITTLE bit of change will throw off the length of the pin significantly. Don't do it

I have nice calipers. I also broke my on/off pin once, that's what gave me the idea. I think I'll start with .005, since you all say it's critical. That's the thickness of a ULT shim.

[hAppy]

And.........................I'm out 8 bucks. How does that hurt my marker?

$8 for a stem of metal....

Anyways good luck, let us know when you suceed.

[the electrician]

just use shims like they do in the ULT. that's what I do. it is reversible if it doesn't work, unlike shaving down the pin

just order up some extra lvl 10 shims.

[trains are bad]

But the regular on/off isn't threaded apart. You mean just put them between the brass and the orings in the top?

[StormSurge]

Oh Well......

Um I'm not sure but..... *Cough* *Cough* http://www.zakvetter.com/Pages/Paint...isclaimer.html *Cough* *Cough* might have the awnsers you need...

[Adrenaline_Junkie]

The whole rapid fire thing wont really help him. That page and stuff just explains rapid fire not his whole pin thing hes doin. IMO i wouldnt mess with the pin, theres no reason to have a fullauto gun if its illegal to play with.

[68magOwner]

i think i heard it can wear out your sear faster

[Blazestorm]

My gun has total run-away all the time.

I'm always shooting 20bps It's actually an effort to get it to shoot a single shot.

This is with a preset tank as well, but I was told by a friend I have a bad-oring in the on/off causing that. I'll look into it further, but for now, it's a lot of fun to play with

[Lohman446]

I once took out one of the o-rings at the top of the on-off.... and the marker cycled faster than I have ever heard a gun cycle, not sure if they were full pressure shots or not but the only way to stop it was to undo the tank

[the electrician]

I thought you said you had an x-valve. doesn't it have an RT on/off in it?

the RT on/of ahs a top and a bottom. how do think they got that little o-ring in there?
take it apart and add the shims one at atime until you get it the way you want.

you can shorten the pin, ut when you go too far, you have to buy another one and start over. I've done it both ways and the smart way is to use the shims.