need help with my bushmaster

[notcreative]

hey i need help with my bushmaster i think i need a new vavle seal but that is only half the problem when ever its un gased and i just turn it on just to shoot it with out air..... if i hold in on the trigger it will keep clicking contiuesly instead of the usuall click then stop it wont stop till about 15 seconds then it will stop does anybody know what this might be.... If this didnt make much since please say so and i will try to write it better....

Thanks

notcreative


P.S. this is also in the tech forum but this always seems to have more people in it.....

[Chronobreak]

sounds like its set to full auto turn all the jumper things off

[eddie885221]

check ur battery, cuz sometimes it will charge notice the trigger bein pulled then click and shut off then charge and notice the trigger and click and shut off, and so on and so forth

[VFX_Fenix]

Okay, so I'm not going crazy, I knew I'd responded to this before lol

[notcreative]

Thanks for your help i still need to get the cup seal for the vavle pretty sure that is leaking..

[XbeasleyX]

..

As for the cup seal, get a black magic.

[Chronobreak]

could get a diff valve alltogether with abetter cup seal. that was the only upgrade i did to my bushy other than a new barrel and it worked great bit better cocnsistency,few more shots.no leaks, also for bsuhys i would keep a spare noid seal around .those wil go sooner or later as well

[O_o]

Flip the cup seal for a new sealing surface. To do so, grip the pin and grip the copper top. Twist is apart so u can take out the cup seal. Turn it the other way, the reinstall.

And yes, I believe your board is set to full auto. To turn off, set dip switches 1 and 2 to off I believe.

[notcreative]

i aired it up today it wasnt leaking out the barrel its leaking more out the grip and yes it was set to full auto i am wondeing could something be jammed in the 3-way to make it leak or do you guys think the solonoid is bad..... the cup seal still may be leaking i might not be able to tell very well where the leak is coming out from the are hard to locate sometimes....

any help that you guys can give me would be great...

thanks

[O_o]

If it's leaking from the grip, that means it's leaking from the solenoid which is probably because your LPR is too high. Turn it down until you can push your bolt forward some some force, but not too much.

[notcreative]

push the bolt forward the bolt wont even cock back....

[Timmee]

Check to make sure that your solenoid screws are tight (a loose solenoid can cause a leak from there), and check to make sure your solenoid gasket is in good shape.

[FaSSt]

First, for the cupseal. Short term, wipe cupseal very clean. I have heard that soaking it in automatic transmission fluid swells it slightly and promotes sealing, but I have not tested this theory myself. Do youself a favor and buy a Black Magic cupseal. This solves all such problems, and works with aftermarket valves such as the Vapor Valve, which, in fact, comes with one.

Second, about the leak from the solenoid area. Let's work on the assumption that the solenoid is NOT blown. Your leak can be caused by a number of things:

1. Low battery As someone already pointed out, make sure that you have a fresh battery.

2. LPR pressure is set too high Turn it all the way down, and then turn it up slowly while firing to set pressure properly. You want it about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn past where the pressure makes the bolt stay back. If you can borrow a MacDev Ram gauge from someone, so much the better.

3. O-rings on OUTSIDE of ram need to be replaced This is an easy fix. The o-rings are the same size as tank o-rings.

4. O-rings INSIDE the ram need to be replaced. This can be a bit of a pain. Use a blowtorch (or, as I recently did, a gas kitchen stove) to heat the hammer part of the ram assembly. This is necessary in order to cause the Red Loctite that it is on it to release. Be careful. Once the Loctite releases (you should see it fizzle off, causing a black residue) you can unscrew the hammer from the ram-shaft. Be careful to NOT nick the shaft. Cover the plyers or whatever with a leather stip or something similar. Once unscrewed, replace the 2 o-rings on the inside.

By the way, according to ICD the inside o-rings are a "#10" and "#11", but at Lowe's the correct size was a number 5 and a number 6. Home Depot did not have them.

Make sure that you use at least Blue and preferably Red loctite when you re-assemble the ram.



Of course, you can always send you Bushmaster in to Goldie at Vaporworks.net to have it gone over.

[notcreative]

^^^^^^^^^^^
Thanks alot

I prolly will send it into vapor works and have them install chaos board and pretty much all vapor parts......