I've got issues....

[Bob_da_Splatman]

I am having one hell of a time trying to figure out whats the matter with my mag...Its turnded into a freakin' blender. I can't get anything solid out of the barrel so...
I have had it running solid on Co2 once but thats it, never on my 47/3000 the velocity isn't that high and i get nothing but goo. Its an old valve from ans a phase II I think. I purchased it on ebay and has never served me well twice and i hate givin' mags a bad name by shootin a crap (no offense to mags just to my own stupidity) that I just don't know about...
I'm bout ready to ditch the old valve for an e-valve or x-valve


Help????

[Army]

Don't poo on the legendary 'Mags when you have a non-AGD valve on your gun

However, you will be much happier with an X-valve anyway. Level 10 will eliminate the goo shooting, and your tank will be happier too!

[SpecialBlend2786]

lvl 10 makes my tank sad

[Blazestorm]

Having no gun makes me sad (A4 Fly next week... yay... )

[RetroEclipseMan]

yeah, having no gun makes me sad as well. hopefully i'll be shooting a freestyle iin a couple months.

But anyways, defiantely look into the x-valve or even a cheap retro valve.

PS- aren't you supposed to be burning dvd's right now Blaze???

[PIT]

Are you chopping after a long string of balls? which could maybe indicate that you are outshooting your loader, especially a non-agitating one. Solution: don't shoot so fast.

Are the balls breaking in the breech or the barrel? If they're breaking in the barrel, it probably either bad paint, or a bad paint to barrel match. Solution: get barrel that fits the paint that you shoot OR don't shoot bad paint.

What kind of bolt do you have? is there supposed to be a foamie? Solution: install foamie if there is supposed to be one.

When having just inserted paint into the marker, can you fire your first shot fine but not any shots thereafter? If so, maybe the bolt is cutting the ball just above the one being fired. Solution: get level 10 bolt.

I can't think of anything else after that... try these out and give us more information.

[Bob_da_Splatman]

first shot is fine most of the time and the second dies off like not full pressure. barrel to paint is go though have a pipe kit so it good . Hooked up co2 worked fine but broke like 9th or tenth ball of each string. paints good too.

Oh and army I didnt say any thing bad about agd I mentioned the fact that I wasnt totally sure of my functioning knowledge of the inner workings of a mag..........I poo on no one but myself.........

[slade]

Having no gun makes me sad (A4 Fly next week... yay... )

what?! what happened to the borg???

oh yeah and back on topic... get an xvalve.

[Bob_da_Splatman]

oh yeah and back on topic... get an xvalve.

I think im leaning towards an emag valve

[BobTheCow]

I think im leaning towards an emag valve

How come? In case you're not sure of the difference, an x-valve is a mostly-aluminum (lighter) bolt, with level 10.

[Bob_da_Splatman]

honestly how much weight differentiation is there, and no Im not miss taken the E-valve is said to have better reactivity.............how much different is that??? especially since im getting ult??????

Someone help

[abunkerer]

check your detents, they can fail and make balls break. THey can cut balls, or
if you are double feeding on ball shoots into the one already in the barrrel and breaks it.
also if the paint is too big for your barrel you will get breaks.

[PIT]

Yeah check your detents like abunkerer said.
I would also take apart the valve and check all orings and lube them up and put it back together. This usually solves most of my inconsistency problems.

[Bob_da_Splatman]

my detent is fine and im in the process of dismantaling the valve

does anybody know the weight difference between x and e valves?

or the reactivity difference with both having the ult?

are there any cycling differences like the number/second?

[Muzikman]

The weight difference is 3oz (does not sound like a lot, but there are only 16oz in a pound).

The difference in reactivity is not all that much. With the ULT (ULE Trigger) the reactivity goes down. In my experiances with the ULT in both the Emag (or retro) valve has about the same reactiveness as an X-valve.

If you buy an X-valve you will get the level 10 bolt. If you buy a used Emag valve, you may or may not get the level 10 bolt.


Now, to try and fix your problem with the valve you have.

What bolt do you have?

ANS - 6 (or 8) small holes in a circle around the face of the bolt. There should be a small rount piece of foam in the center

AGD (level 7) Foamie Bolt - There is a star (3 point) thick foamie in the nose of the bolt. If the foamie is missing there will be a star (3 point) recessed face on the bolt (if foamie is missing, replace by cleaning the surface good, using a file or other sharp object and scratching the surface and using a good epoxy to afix the foamie.

AGD (levell 7) Foamie-less Bolt - This bolt will still have the star (3 pointed) shaped nose, but it is not recessed back into the bolt. It will also have a small "cup" shape in the center.

AGD (level 7) Long Nosed Bolt - This bolt looks just like the foamie-less bolt but the nose sticks out a little.



You say you are running CO2. What are you doing to prevent liquid from entering the gun?

Also you say that you are getting drop off in pressure which will result in obvious drop in velocity. What On/Off valve are you running? This is the pin assembely located on the under side of the valve that the sear pushes on. Alot of the aftermarket on/off's cause more harm than good with a mag.

Which nubbins do you have? "P", "V" or Plastic? If they are the "P" nubbin (metal wire shapped like a "P") make sure it's not pushed too far in.

What type of body do you have? Standard, Powerfeed, or vert? If it's a Powerfeed body, do you have a parabolic PF plug? This is the black plug at the bottom of the PF. A parabolic plug has two set screws in it that make it so you can adjust how far it going into the feed tube. If it's a non parabolic plug, replace it with one.