Anyone experianced with Impy's....

[punkncat]

I just got my first Impy as a side project. Kind of a backup to the backup....

Anyway , I have a few questions about it.

How does one go about adjusting the blade trigger ?

How do you know when the LPR is adjusted right ?

Is Vision capped at a low BPS ? My marker fires much faster w/o the vision than with it.

Is there supposed to be a detent in the vision cover screw ?


I need to know a GOOD 'pulse forum with some REAL information on them. I really try to steer away from PBN , but saw a few factiods there. I know this isn't an SP forum , but there are definately some knowledgeable folks running around in here.

[player4]

Might want to try pbreview.com............i think theres a guy by the name of toothpastedog who knows pretty much everything about impulses........I would try the forums over there

[BD_Paintball]

to adjust the trigger you use the large screw behind the trigger to move it forward and back. then use the set screws for length of trigger pull and return. PBN has a HUGE thread about the lpr so look there in the imp forum. vision is capped at 20 pbs. i would get ECS for it and it will then be capped at 30 and you get all the settings as the WAS board. i have ECS and i love it. i think that most have 2 detents. i have never seen a imp with 1 detent.

here is the thread for all your ?'s click

[68magOwner]

ok

trigger- your activation point is controlled with the screw in the top of the trigger (going up into the frame) the pull length is adjusted with the screw on the back of the trigger that hits the frame, the spring tension is adjusted by a screw inside the frame, have to take off frame and tray to get to it

lpr- hmm, i think just set velocity then back out the LPR untill you get shootdown, then turn it back in 1/4 a turn like on a trix

vision- what board? the cricket vision boards are capped at 20 with vision on, and 13.4 (or 13.7) with vision off

detent- yes, there should be a detent on both sides of the marker, and if your using the smart parts eye cover (as opposed to WAS) then the detent on the eye cover side should be longer than the non-vision side

[punkncat]

Ok the screw that runs up into the top of the trigger , accessible w/o taking the tray off , doesn't seem to do anything. I have turned it quite a few turns both ways. The trigger is right on the switch , and I want to back it off , to allow more travel before it fires.


This has a cricket board in it. I am shooting really fast w/o the vision , but when I turn it on there is a delay between each shot that is quite noticable. I have noticed that the ball is missing from the vision side detent , so maybe the ball is moving inside the breach or something...?

[The Action Figure]

is this just clicking the trigger and not firing? if so then paint has to be in the gun for vision to work right

[punkncat]

No , with paint , firing the marker , it shoots really slow and in a choppy pattern. Not chopping paint mind you , just really slow and unsteady.

The same hopper that I am using on the Imp shoots between 12-13 claimed on my Trix's LCD. I would be suprized if its shooting 8 on the Imp with the eyes on. With them off it rips like crazy.

Another thing I have noticed is that about every 8-10 shots one ball will barely make it out of the barrel while ripping on it.

[nastymag]

what parts do you have on it.

SP impulses vision logic is notioursly bad, so it could be that it has trouble sensing the paint you are using. the logic senses movement not the presence on a ball so i dont think the detent would affect that.

do you have a tape worm or any other lpr mod ?

last, grease up your ram and amybe lighten your internals.

e-piantballoutlet has some good stuff, i would look in to a slik shot ram shaft. it Helps alot.
new hammer helps , bolt and pin ...and LPR .

[peewee]

toothpastedog is an impy lovin fool. I'd contact him. If you check his profile he use to have a link to a pretty good info page on impys.

[CoolHand]

You need to seek IOG (Impulse Owners Group).

They are a kind of surly lot, so be polite, and for god's sake read the FAQ's and do a search before posting (I mean it, they can be brutal if you don't do that first).

Linky ---> IOG

Give 'em a look. Lots of information there, if you can sift through the random posts, and manage not to get banned outright.

[minimag03]

http://www.angelfire.com/mech/zds/

This guy knows everything about SP markers. You should find most of the infomation you need on his pages. He can probley help you with anything else you need too.

-minimag03

[CoolHand]

Ah yes, Ydna.

Minimag speaks the truth. Ydna has collected a good deal of info about SP markers on that site. Just be on the lookout for contradictions or typos (he types fast, and confuses things sometimes, thus errors) in the write-ups, so you can seek clarification. Anyway, those two places should get you well on your way to knowing that marker inside and out.

Have a good one.

[68magOwner]

what color is the paint? my vision was really slow with some dark shells (although one day i shot a case of flat black paint with no problems at all) if you thik its fast with vision off....wait till you get it working with vision on, as far as the trigger, i highly doubt your turning it, probably wrong sized allen or the screw is stripped, turning it would change teh activation pint for shure

[punkncat]

I went over to IOG and there is MUCH info to be found. A good bit of it seems to be piecemeal , and refers back to items not in the order they "say". It also seems to take a lot for granted concerning your own info on the marker. Still lots of good stuff there.

The marker has the new blue light vision cricket board. I think the internals are stock. It has a stubby delrin bolt , and an LPR with a small airline run in where the Tapeworm would go. It seems like I was told that it was supplying the noid directly with air.

When I turn the LPR up or down you can feel the bolt pressure increasing. I have it adjusted where it will bounce right off paint , doesn't shootdown , but it does suffer a wicked FSDO. I think the problem with every 8-10th ball barely getting out of the barrel is actually the bolt bouncing off of them. I have yet to break a ball in this thing and I have definately tried. Its either that or its double feeding cause of the missing vision side detent ball ?....

I still haven't figured out how to get just the frame to come loose from the tray to get at that trigger spring. I took the whole tray off and didn't realy want to mess with taking out the board yet. I did find the correct size allen key for the activation point. I am uncertain as to whether I care for the stock frame at all.........gotta go to coolhand's site.....

I also wondered about getting at the valve. Do I just unscrew the whole LPR/frontcap out of the marker and it comes out?

Anywho , I will check the other link posted and see what I can learn there as well. Thanks fellow AO'ers

[CoolHand]

OK, I can field those.

First, the double feeding can be from from a weak detent, if you are using a HALO B. If you're not using a force feed of some kind, then its not the detent's fault.

Most likely, what you are experienceing is shoot down, in its most extreme form. The hammer simply isn't hitting the poppet hard enough to open it at all, so it just loads the ball and goes back again. The older (like three yrs ago) solenoids would get a full cycle with much less pressure. I don't know what they have changed in the design, but I have not been able to get an Imp to cylce reliably with less than 85 psi (give or take) going to the 'noid since then. They will cycle fine at low ROF, but if you get the shots too close together, the ram just can't fill fast enough, so you get a blooper, or a double feed. Just turn the LPR up and try again.

To separate the tray from the frame, you have to take the frame/tray/board assembly off, then take the board out of the tray. There are two phillips head screws under the board that hold the tray onto the frame. Take those out, and it all falls apart.

To get the valve out, take off the front cap, take out the ram housing, and take off the frame/tray/board assembly. Basically, you should have the body in your hands. Turn it over, and find the big SS plug that sets right behind the front frame screw hole. Take a 3/16" allen key, and take it out. Its not loctited, and its got an oring on it, so don't loctite it when you put it back in. When that is out, take a squeegie or wooden spoon, and push the valve out the back of the marker. If you push it out the front, the orings will get cut. Push it out the back (through where the ram housing usually is), and install it again from the back.

Hope that helped.