Hey! i know this is a mag forum but i figured id post over here where there are more intellectual people instead of pbnation. I currently have a dye reflex autococker with an e1 eblade on it with a nexus ram and dual eclipse qev's. My question is the damn thing wont stop bouncing. I played around with the set screws but it still wont stop bouncing at all. The setting are on factory fast with an input psi of about 350.
EBlade Users!
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all the e1 eblades that i've used have had bouce, not really sure how to cure it
sorry, good luck though. Bouce seems to be a huge problem with the older eblades. The e2 seems to have fixed most of the bouce issues though. -
yeah ...thats what the E1 ones are known for ...try setting the activation point closer to the middle or start of the pull. up the debounce settings ...uhh lemme see. cant think of anymore .
i cant get mine to bounce on one trigger pull, but it defently bounces when i am walking it, not huge amounts but enough for me to notice.Aced/predator Adrenalin LCD
2k Dark Angel [
98 LED Angel ( kinda )
shark attack X-MAG
Eclipse Factory Eblade
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"I'm looking for an xmag in excellent or perfect condition. I have a black 2k3 mech cocker with Palmer everything (worth about US $800) I can trade, which is in excellent condition, well timed, reliable, and pinches all but the oldest super brittle paint." Flyboy771Comment
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Use the trigger filter in the timing menu... Up the time for the tpul (trigger pull) and trel (trigger release)... Keep upping the time and play with the trigger stops until it won't bounce anymore...
~Tim~Comment
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I saw an interesting cure to e1 bounce today. Costs about 1$, some soldering, and some superglue.

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alright here we go....
lpr= TURN IT DOWN
trigger= make the magnet decently hard but still comfy and set the actication point out a bit so that it fires RIGHT before the set screw touches the frame and pretravel must be atleast 2 mm
settings= coff must be a little high like 24 and for the filter put your release high
thats all i got but the trigger is the most importantE2 VF-TACTICAL,shocktech pnues and beavertail,tactical kaner kit,shocktech supafly,shocktech mini drop and on/off ,all black :ninja: :ninja:Comment
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Beat me to it!Originally posted by kuramaI saw an interesting cure to e1 bounce today. Costs about 1$, some soldering, and some superglue.
http://www.air-powered.com/index.php...&f=16&t=24050&
You can do that, and there is also a thread floating arround here about using some shrinkwrap tubing arround the part of the trigger that breaks the opto beam, but i cant seem to find it.Black/Red Tribal 2.0 BBT, Morlock board, 90* Angel Space frame, to many goodies to list. SOLD
Warp fed custom cocker, all aftermarket.Comment
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e1 frames will always be bounceable - unless you replace the opto switch with a microswitch like snertz did you will not be able to completely get rid of bounce.
That being said, a long pull with strong magnets will lessen it a bit. Leave some post-travel as well.Comment
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im new to eblades but not cockers. The blade didnt come with a manual so how would i go about making the magnet stiffer?Originally posted by tippmannsniper-alright here we go....
lpr= TURN IT DOWN
trigger= make the magnet decently hard but still comfy and set the actication point out a bit so that it fires RIGHT before the set screw touches the frame and pretravel must be atleast 2 mm
settings= coff must be a little high like 24 and for the filter put your release high
thats all i got but the trigger is the most importantComment
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just take the the allen wrench and holt it around the set screws it will stick to one of themE2 VF-TACTICAL,shocktech pnues and beavertail,tactical kaner kit,shocktech supafly,shocktech mini drop and on/off ,all black :ninja: :ninja:Comment
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tippmann sniper got it right.Comment

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