The Pro Classic vs gun x

[ApexAZ]

It'll work for ALL AGD valves except the Sydarm and field rental guns, regardless of propellant.

I don't know, I'm just going by what they say on the airgun site. They say it's air only under the RT Custom description.

[ICP]

That's because of the xvalve though. Not the lvlX. But I would also suggest getting the rt custom. It's a little more money than the classic but it's already got so many upgrades you will want in the future. Of course like you stated, you will have to get a N2 tank right away.

[ApexAZ]

Yeah but Dayspring is saying all valves which would include the xvalve.

Anyways, I know how it is to be tight on cash. Maybe save up a bit longer and save some money in the long run is all I'm saying.

[AGD-OfficeGal]

Dayspring has it right about the Level 10. Propellant doesn't matter.

The X-Valve only runs on compressed air or N2, not CO2.

You can put the Level 10 on a Pro Classic and still run CO2, but with the usual caveats...

Marcia

[Dayspring]

Thanks Marcia!

When's Secretary's Day? I have a box of chocolate with your name on it!

[ApexAZ]

Cool I thought you meant the valves themselves.

[yingyang]

I dont really play tounries I just am the weekend player and sometimes a senario player, so I dont really have a play for the xvalve no reason to get it, I just want a gun that is reliable and shoots well thus I think the Pro Classic is a good choice.

[jenarelJAM]

pro classic

my advice, get the pro classic, and use c02 on it for awhile, but dont buy the lvl 10 for a while. with the extra 70$ or so, buy a crossfire 47/3000 tank from pbgear.com. Then, if you find that you're shooting faster and/or want the reactivity, you can spend 85$ or so to buy a lvl 10 bolt, which you can stick on your classic valve, or use AGD's GO-Xvalve trade in thing for $225 (i think). But that way you can decide when and what to upgrade. as far as barrels go, i think it would be mroe cost effective to stick with the stock barrel and use some rainX in it so you can shoot through breaks (btw, i havent actually tried this, ive just heard that it works) because i think you will notice more of a difference with the hpa than with a new barrel (as long as the stock one isnt crap). i just dont see a point in buying a new barrel that still most likely wont have the correct bore size for the paint you're shooting. as long as your barrel is half decent, it would make more sense to wait until you can buy a cheap barrel kit with 3 or more bore sizes.



gawd i love smileys...

[kurama]

[TheTramp]

I still suggest that you go with the Pro Classic and add a L10 to it before you do ANYTHING else including buying a N2 tank.

YOu could concevibly get by with a VL200 if you've got L10 (though I'd recomend at least a revy).

[Lohman446]

Pro classic $229 + ULE body (upgrade price with classic) $65 + level ten $85 (can be had cheaper) = $379

Base RT Pro $340 + ULE body (price with RT Pro) $10. Includes X-valve and level ten already (you would have to use Nitro wtih X-valve, or you could sell it and get a used classic valve and upgrade level ten, making you $$ in the process) $350

If you plan on getting the ULE body, and level ten, I would look at the RT Pro

[hobbesTZ]

I would suggest not buying the Pro Classic. You can find regular classics and minimags a lot cheaper, and they're the same exact thing. I can get basic like new Minimags for $100 here in NH. There are lots of other similar guns all over the BST and eBay. You'll save yourself a lot of money and will be able to afford the upgrades you want sooner.

[yingyang]

I see these are very good points that I will take in, I might just wait few months and save up and get the RT pro and HPA.

Question: I know that gas effieceny is bad on the RT compared to a Outkast, is there a big diffrence that I will notice from chosing the Outkast from the RT ULE ( I know about the upgrades on both sides, ex: level 10, x valve)