Why do people adjust velocity through their lpr?

[Python14]

I don't know what kind of 'cocker you own, but all of them I have ever seen or heard about use springs to drive the hammer.

All the LPR on a 'cocker does, is control the force applied to the bolt, not the hammer. You want just enough umpfff to compress the main spring, and not much more, to keep the possibility of chopping down.

And whoever said that all poppet type markers have a sweetspot is right. BUT, the sweetspot is not always the best place to run the marker. It is the most efficient place to run it, but if you have ever sweetspotted an LPR equipped Imp, you will see that by the time you get to the sweetspot, you are having to hit the valve so hard, that the marker kicks like a mule.

This is most likely why BL says to set the LPR at Xpsi, and then run the HPR up to velocity. They have found that their recommended set points give the best compromise between shots per fill, kick, and shootdown.

I was referencing the Velocity adjuster that adjusts hammer spring pressure. I am well aware that the ram in a cocker cocks the gun and moves the bolt

[CoolHand]

I was referencing the Velocity adjuster that adjusts hammer spring pressure. I am well aware that the ram in a cocker cocks the gun and moves the bolt

Okie Dokie.

That's just not what it sounded like from your post.

[Python14]

haha, don't worry. I know my way around just about every paintball gun.

[FallNAngel]

Freestyles should be turned up till it leaks then back off. Adjust HPR for velocity.

Not all Freestyles. Some Freestyle solenoids take more pressure than others. Your best bet is to turn both of them to zero, turn the HPR up to the approximate pressure needed, then turn the LPR up until it cycles properly, then adjust the HPR for veloctiy.

[Blazestorm]

You realize turning the LPR to zero won't have enough pressure to hold the bolt back (no pressure at all) so the bolt will stay forward dumping the air chamber...

My method is allowing the fastest recharge rate possible, although you can lower it if you don't like the kick (although there is still almost none with my method)

[jewie27]

That's exactly how you adjust the velocity on an Ion. You turn the nut on the LPR (the vertical foregrip regulator). It's simple and easy to do. The lower the air pressure input into the gun, the lower the velocity will be.

[CoolHand]

That's exactly how you adjust the velocity on an Ion. You turn the nut on the LPR (the vertical foregrip regulator). It's simple and easy to do. The lower the air pressure input into the gun, the lower the velocity will be.

No, the vertical reg is the HPR on the ION. They don't have an LPR.

They just happen to run at a pretty low input pressure.

[FallNAngel]

You realize turning the LPR to zero won't have enough pressure to hold the bolt back (no pressure at all) so the bolt will stay forward dumping the air chamber...

Yes, I do. The poppet in the HE bolt should minimize this though. You can also just buy a piece of rubber brake tubing, around 3/8 size and stick it down the feedneck.

My method is allowing the fastest recharge rate possible, although you can lower it if you don't like the kick (although there is still almost none with my method)

It'll push the bolt back faster, but it can actually lower cyclic rate a bit by having to expel unnecessary LPR pressure. Perhaps it makes up for it in pushing the bolt back faster though.

[jewie27]

No, the vertical reg is the HPR on the ION. They don't have an LPR.

They just happen to run at a pretty low input pressure.

It's still being double regulated. The preset tank plus the vertical regulator. It's still bringing the pressure down from 800 psi to below 200 psi. LPR.

[SpecialBlend2786]

It's still being double regulated. The preset tank plus the vertical regulator. It's still bringing the pressure down from 800 psi to below 200 psi. LPR.

But it is still recieving 800+ and then bringing it down to 200, as opposed to recieving 200ish and bringing it down to like 80.

[ojhspyro89]

On my bko thats bout the easiest way to do it. I adjust the HPR to about 250-275 and then go to the chrony and adjust the lpr till i get good fps. On the ICD products (i beleive all the newer ones) the noid will leak when the pressure gets too high. Its actually pretty nifty and would save you a potentially expensive fix. Thats just how i do it, i mean its up to you i guess, ive tried it the other way around once. The problem was that when the pressure in the hpr was too much the hammer couldnt open the valve. So then id adjust the lpr.

I dunno thats just how i know howda do it.

[jewie27]

I don't have to worry about all this LPR stuff.....

I just turn the velocity nut on my X-Valve and play.