Wondering why people don't like the twistlock setups? They are simple, can be lighter than ULE bodies(imo, never had one) and I personally love the fact that it takes 1/8 turn to disengage and remove the barrel. The biggest problem I see is with the nubbin if your using a force feed hopper. And lets face it, with a mechanical gun and lvl X you don't really NEED a force feed hopper.(Yes I have one, but for different reason). Just curious is all. Is it a "fad" thing or are they really that much better?, Why?
Why not twistlock?
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personman
Its because twist lock barrels are harder to machine which results in two problems:
Less availability and
When people do make them, they cost more. -
well if you ever have held a cocker threaded boomstick and then a twistlock boomstick you can see a big difference in weight. and sometimes people lke to have a true centerfeed body. others like it a powerfeed especally if they use a warp."Ah yes, I have one of the 32*rebels that I always take to big scenario games. It keeps the truck from rolling if I have to park on a hill." - automikeyComment
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I knew that was gonna be posted. But if they were used, they would be available, and they really are not hard to machine, with the CNC equipment available today. But your prob. right about being a little more expensive to produce.
EDIT: and another good point, weight, I guess it does matter to a lot of people. But I think the saved weight on the body would make up for it.Comment
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why use cnc when you can just pour aluminum into a mold?Originally posted by ICPI knew that was gonna be posted. But if they were used, they would be available, and they really are not hard to machine, with the CNC equipment available today. But your prob. right about being a little more expensive to produce.

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"poured"???
barrels are machined.
casting aluminum is alot different than casting acrylic. when any metal is cast they don't use molds, they use sand. this gives the piece a rough surface which then has to be machined. any barrel manufacturer would rather just drill the hole for the bore rather than try to use a casting with a cast hole through it. drilling + billet costs much less than drilling + casting.
as far as twistlock, i like them. i realize that they are more expensive to produce and have their own inheirent problems but who wants to sit there for 5 minutes unscrewing a cocker barel?
i know i hate doing it.Comment
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I agree. I think that twistlock is an ingenious design and was way ahead of it's time. You ever crossthreaded a twistlock? No, because it's impossible.Originally posted by ultralightas far as twistlock, i like them. i realize that they are more expensive to produce and have their own inheirent problems but who wants to sit there for 5 minutes unscrewing a cocker barel? i know i hate doing it.
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www.ohioshaolin.comComment
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rockin it old school style, bout to buy one of these mainbodies then send it into FBM and have them install a press feed autococker Hooker Clamping feedneck
mainbody: http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...&categoryID=10
feedneck: http://www.fireballmountain.com/Merc...t_Code=FBM-974
and yes i'm lazy so i'm not really willing to put up the pics all the way, in total its been quoted at $120 for the finished product (including price of body from AGD) this way i dont have to get rid of my twist lock boomstick and freak back- 68 classic, customizing in the works
- Black/Blue VSC Phantom from WWA
xXHavokXx "I'll say it again. This gun will get you laid."Comment
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To settle this ONCE AND FOR ALL. Here's the Final answer.
It was hard for many manufacturers to create twistlock barrels with the SAME size breech. Every brand had a different size breech.
Since Autococker threads are pretty much a industry standard, there are way more barrels available to choose from. So AGD went to 'Cocker threads.
In my honest opinion, twistlock is still what I prefer. I like having the quarter turn removal/install plus the fact that the breech is part of the barrel. If a ball ever breaks in my 'Mag, I just remove the barrel and clean out all the paint with a squeegee. On all other markers, a chopped ball means a pain in the butt when it's time to clean the paint.
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ok the true answer or atleast the one that i remember tom mentioning is that the lvl 10 bolt is larger in the front there is a reason for that which i dont remember but the fact is it is still wider than a lvl 7. with aftermarket manufactuers having trouble maintaning toloerances for the breach part of there twist lock barrels the superbolts were striking some barrels.. some people sanded down there bolts to fit the barrels.. some bolts even sanded wouldnt fit the barrels! so agd decided that to alleviate this problem they would take the breach out of the aftermarkets hands and made a body that had a threaded barrel and ofcoarse a breach as well!!VV04962 yeah thats my Pewter CnC X-mag
Looking for a milled 04 featherlight viking!!!
my feedback!!!http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...84#post1584884Comment
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yakitori
I noticed that with twistlock bodys/barrel when I push into a bunker sometimes my LVL 10 chuffs because of the double oring design misaligning the bolt and breech/barrel. I also dont like the powerfeed being in my view esp a hopper left powerfeed. It really takes away my vision w/ my right eye. I use both eyes, and this bothers me. The powerfeed can get paint dirt inside of it and get shot through the barrel. Also a pain if it starts raining.
Also, they ARE heavier than ULE. And the availability of barrels is not as good as cocker threaded barrels. In fact I dont know of any twistlock mag barrel kits. Even though twist lock barrels are cheap and you can buy multiple barrels. ULE bodies also give a shorter profile. No hopper sticking a mile into the air, and no crappy plastic elbows getting broken all the time. Ive gone through 2 in the past 2 outtings adding up to 10 extra bucks that I coulda spent on paint/drinks/food/air.
I personally prefer ULE body over the twistlock for the above reasons. That is exactly why I purchased one because the SS was annoying to me. I too use a Halo B and if I do get a barrel break I have to turn off the halo, shoot the ball stack out then remove the barrel. Not so w/ the ULE and it probably turns out to the same amount of time to get the barrel off and cleaned.
Those are some reasons why I prefer ULE over twistlock, and I feel they are valid arguments to not use the SS bodies. It is worth a 90 dollar used ULE body to me.Comment
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yakitori
I know someone who does, and it seemed a little looser than regular twistlock barrels. Maybe an oring could be stuffed in though.Originally posted by aaroncushing
Wouldnt that further increase the weight? How much do they weigh. My friends has one setup w/ a warp and y grip and it seems not too bad as far as weight. I guess becauase its ballanced nicely. He even has an 88ci tank too.
Thats weird cause my emag seemed really heavy w/ the warp setup.Comment
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Back in the day, when classic mags were king (at least to me they were) my friend would just have two twistlock barrels on him at all times. When he got a barrel break he would just swap barrels and keep on playing.
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