AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Back in the day, when classic mags were king (at least to me they were) my friend would just have two twistlock barrels on him at all times. When he got a barrel break he would just swap barrels and keep on playing.
That's not very safe, unless the barrels were the exact same thing. The length, bore, and porting of the barrel all affect velocity. Depending on all of those (like if he was switching from a 18" All american to a 12" crown point) someone could get hurt.
But, if the barrels shot at pretty much the same FPS, thats a pretty good idea
That's not very safe, unless the barrels were the exact same thing. The length, bore, and porting of the barrel all affect velocity. Depending on all of those (like if he was switching from a 18" All american to a 12" crown point) someone could get hurt.
But, if the barrels shot at pretty much the same FPS, thats a pretty good idea
Hehe... I remember at HSI once, a Ref caught a player switching Boresizes on the field and made him rechrono.
Edit:
Originally posted by yakitori
I noticed that with twistlock bodys/barrel when I push into a bunker sometimes my LVL 10 chuffs because of the double oring design misaligning the bolt and breech/barrel. I also dont like the powerfeed being in my view esp a hopper left powerfeed. It really takes away my vision w/ my right eye. I use both eyes, and this bothers me. The powerfeed can get paint dirt inside of it and get shot through the barrel. Also a pain if it starts raining.
Also, they ARE heavier than ULE. And the availability of barrels is not as good as cocker threaded barrels. In fact I dont know of any twistlock mag barrel kits. Even though twist lock barrels are cheap and you can buy multiple barrels. ULE bodies also give a shorter profile. No hopper sticking a mile into the air, and no crappy plastic elbows getting broken all the time. Ive gone through 2 in the past 2 outtings adding up to 10 extra bucks that I coulda spent on paint/drinks/food/air.
I actually had some odd chuffing problems with my stock RT Pro barrel and my level 10. Switching to ULE alleviated those problems...
For reference, I'm pretty sure the J&J Edge kit is made in twistlock form, and I know the freak was made in such as well.
Automag RT-Pro
68 Classic
BE 1999 Rainmaker
PMI Trracer
So many guns, So little time.
To settle this ONCE AND FOR ALL. Here's the Final answer.
It was hard for many manufacturers to create twistlock barrels with the SAME size breech. Every brand had a different size breech.
Since Autococker threads are pretty much a industry standard, there are way more barrels available to choose from. So AGD went to 'Cocker threads.
In my honest opinion, twistlock is still what I prefer. I like having the quarter turn removal/install plus the fact that the breech is part of the barrel. If a ball ever breaks in my 'Mag, I just remove the barrel and clean out all the paint with a squeegee. On all other markers, a chopped ball means a pain in the butt when it's time to clean the paint.
WOW, I'm an experienced/competant machinist, and I can see no reason as to why there would be a problem keeping the breech in AGD specs.
As far as the weight concerns go, if you make a twistlock out of AL, it would be lighter than the current ULE bodies. The SS bodies aren't what made the mags heavy. It was the SS valve that did that. And of course they could be made CF so that the hopper isn't in your line of sight.
In my honest opinion, twistlock is still what I prefer. I like having the quarter turn removal/install plus the fact that the breech is part of the barrel. If a ball ever breaks in my 'Mag, I just remove the barrel and clean out all the paint with a squeegee. On all other markers, a chopped ball means a pain in the butt when it's time to clean the paint.
It's really a major hassle to pull a pin and then pull a bolt, isn't it.
Whatever, not something I have to deal with, <3 eyes&.693.
You said on other markers it's hard to clean up after a chop. I disagree. I then referenced guns like 'Cockers, Intimidators, Impulses, Spyders, Bushy's, etc that have a pin which you can pull and then remove the bolt.
I agree w/ tuef on this one. My viking is way faster to clean. Dont even have to take the barrel off. Pull bolt run squeegee through gun, replace bolt. thats it.
They do make a JJ edge in Twistlock because I had one. That is correct.
from what was said above, if i chrono with my 16 inch boomstick and then switch to my 10 inch dye xcel, there will be a big difference in fps? (i have nitro and level 10 too)
"Ah yes, I have one of the 32*rebels that I always take to big scenario games. It keeps the truck from rolling if I have to park on a hill." - automikey
Anybody using a twist-lock to AC adapter from Doc's Machine?
I have several of these, they give new life to your old twist lock bodies (which includes Sydarms!). The fit very smoothly into the body, and the tiny twistlock pin hole in the bottom means it aint moving once its mounted, there is no play at all in any of the ones I own. These will fit PF Left, right, and center feed configs (adapter has three holes on the bottom that corresponds to the feed angle you want).
To mount it, you need to remove the body from the rail. The hole that lines up with the twise lock pin needs to be set directly to top of the pin. The easiest way to do this is the thread the adapter onto a barrel, slide it into the body, then rotate/position the adapter until you see that the feed port is properly lined up and the twist lock adapter hole on the bottom. Once its all lined up, drop the body back onto the rail/grip frame and bolt it down.
You said on other markers it's hard to clean up after a chop. I disagree. I then referenced guns like 'Cockers, Intimidators, Impulses, Spyders, Bushy's, etc that have a pin which you can pull and then remove the bolt.
I said a Mag with twistlock is easier to clean because the breech is part of the barrel. Remove the barrel and clean the whole thing with a squeegee in one swipe.
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