A taste of the dark side

[t33kyboy]

Snatch grips are used to hold your marker when not playing....

Pretty useless but it adds to your guns *bling*

[gortman44]

Yeah what is it? Did you make it? How. Where did you get the parts?Its electro right? what kind of board?

B-E-A-UTIFUL gun. were not worthy. were not worthy.

Please info info. must have.

[Alpha]

Its an electro-pneumatic mag mod. I actually had to gut the internals on my X-valve and replaced it with a spool valve. I used a cocker QEV to make the trigger lighter.

ACtually its just a battery, microswitch, and LED hooked up the same way you'd intellifeed it. And the board is just something I took out of a SOCOM 2: Us Navy SEALS Headset.



I always carry my mag by the valve.. I have big hands so sometimes I dont have all too good of a grip. A snatch grip would add cool points, and comfort points.

[yingyang]

still a kickass mag, props to ya. And are you serious bout the headset thing cause I got a broken one. What kind of rail is that?

[gortman44]

Yes, big props. That is if you built it. If you didnt, but designed it, as well big props. That thing is a beaut. Congrates dood on the shocker looking thing . lol. Sweet mag

[jacobeid]

^^^ yes he built and designed it by himself.

[Tunaman]

Not only is it pretty, but it is probably one of the fastest mags on the Planet. You dont need a Pneu-Mag when they shoot this fast....

[Alpha]

ITs an RPG Shadow Rail. No wings, no holes, just pure adjustable Sith railness.

I didn't build anything on it. Give your props to my man RogueFactor for all the great gear.

I dont have any pictures of what it looked like 6 months ago, but picture the ugliest, stock RT Pro. Now roll it in dirt and thats what it looks like.

Thanks Tuna. Its even faster thanks to your new sear. No more wobble!

EDIT: YEs, its a SOCOM 2 headset. Your headset isn't broken. The folks at Logitech used some really low grade sodder and cheap wire, so the connections fray, and become disconnected easy.

If you have an adjustable volume headset, you can hook up a pair of headphones (or cut off a 1/4" Y headphones adapter), and snap it onto the wires before the volume nodule.

Or, if the problem if in the box, you can do it there. OR, you can just remove, and resodder the wires.

And a tip form an experienced SOCOM veteran, If you find yourself hitting that damn mute button in excitement, tape a bottle cap from a 20oz soda bottle onto it. Voila.

The board I used was fried trying to modify it (I have like 4 of them.. 1 in good condition, the others are hooked up so I can listen to it through my own headphones, I can hear it through my tv, my stereo, or through my computer in conujunction with music.

[Chipper]

How hard was it to do that? What tools did you use? Would it be possible for someone else to copy that?

I'm wouldn't do it, if your wondering, I have no mechanical skill. (Well, except for people on my team, they don't have a clue) I was just wondering what was needed to do something that tight.

[slade]

How hard was it to do that? What tools did you use? Would it be possible for someone else to copy that?

I'm wouldn't do it, if your wondering, I have no mechanical skill. (Well, except for people on my team, they don't have a clue) I was just wondering what was needed to do something that tight.

its just a simple circuit with a 9 volt battery connected to the switch and LED. so when the switch is pressed (trigger is pulled, its easy to set up, just screw a microswitch into the place for the intellifeed) the LED will light up. the circuit board is there just for show. all it takes is a screwdriver to screw in the microswitch, electrical tape, and a soldering iron... actually the iron probably isnt even absolutely necessary.

[Chipper]

its just a simple circuit with a 9 volt battery connected to the switch and LED. so when the switch is pressed (trigger is pulled, its easy to set up, just screw a microswitch into the place for the intellifeed) the LED will light up. the circuit board is there just for show. all it takes is a screwdriver to screw in the microswitch, electrical tape, and a soldering iron... actually the iron probably isnt even absolutely necessary.

How about that whole valve thing?

[slade]

How about that whole valve thing?

"Its an electro-pneumatic mag mod. I actually had to gut the internals on my X-valve and replaced it with a spool valve. I used a cocker QEV to make the trigger lighter.

ACtually its just a battery, microswitch, and LED hooked up the same way you'd intellifeed it. And the board is just something I took out of a SOCOM 2: Us Navy SEALS Headset."

you mean that? read the second paragraph itd be sorta hard to make a mag into a spool valve, you might as well just make the whole gun from scratch at that point.

[Alpha]

LOL its just a normal X-valve. Except Tom Kaye put a shim of love between the powertube tip and the carrier.

The LED was very easy to do. Go to airgun.com and follow the directions for the intellifeed mod.

You need a microswitch, two screws, two nuts, some wire, a battery, and an LED.

Wrap one wire around one side of the battery, and the other end of the wire around one side of the LED.

Wrap one side of another wire to the input on the microswitch. Wrap the other side to the battery.

Wrap another wire to the output of the microswitch, adn the other end to the other end of the LED.

Now you have a circuit, with the microswitch between one end.

Intelliframes, Chimeras, and (I believe) logic Frames have the slot to put the microswitch in. Put the roller touching where the sear moves.

If you can make out the two pics I posted, its very very easy. It took me probably 30 minutes total to install. Took me a whole day becuase I had to go to radio shack in between and I changed LEDs...

[PsychoBaller]

Hot... I've been wanting to build a Mech mag... never got round to it, damn hotness