Stiffi Switch Barrel Kit Question...

[XtremeC]

so i understand that the barrel back is only 1" long so how are you suppose to screw it into a tac-one? The barrel goes in about 2"... Secondly i understand it has 4 bore sizes for differnent paintball situations but what about the barrel tip? If the barrel tip is .691 wont a small ball just bounce around in the tip once it leaves the back of the barrel?

thanks if you can elabrate a bit

[XtremeC]

still wondering..

[Automaggot68]

still wondering..

I am too. That's a good question.
Wish i could help you

[FireITup14]

i dont know....but be carefull if you do so. i got a thread adapter and it has gotten stuck in two differnt ULE bodies because of the cut off on them. i had to drill holes in the adapter twice.

[indulgence]

I don't know if this is totatlly correct but, that 1 inch back at .691 is for paint to bore match. Meaning, it is .691 for a nice fit around your paint for the ball acceleration. After it leaves that, it has been fully accelerated and even if it did bounce around in the tip I actually think it will just slide through loosely, not even bounce, but if it did,, it wouldnt be so much because the tips aren't that much bigger, and it wouldn't really affect the trajectory that much.

hope this helps, again I'm not totally sure about this.

[Eric Of Extreme Measures]

First off the guy running around with the claim to fame that the barrels with the short size reducers, or inserts, are the best, is full of crap. the idea that the ball will get what it needs from a 1 inch shaft launch is moronic ot say the least. it was a way to make more fast, and cheap.

then the bounce in the barrel, yeah it does matter, alot, it breaks, it that matters to you?

the only good thing about a stiffi switch kit is that it is smooth enough to bow it out nice.

I have had a Hammer head for a Very short time, and i HATE IT! selling it FAST.

but others love it.

Look up warpig and google the barrel research.

think of it like this. remember those rockets you used to lauch off of a steele rod. long rod, straight take off?

short rod, went all over the place?
and this makes no sense either, if we are getting a barrel for all this money for a paint size, why just 1 inch? then the rest of the barrel .691? What the #^%$&* is this crap...

TOM, come Back and fix this!
Eric

[Spaceman613]

I use a CCM barrel kit which is effectively the same as the Stiffi.

It works, shoots straight... doesnt break paint any more than any other barrel I have owned, and it prevents rollouts.

Efficiency seems to be roughtly the same as when I use other barrels as well.

I dont buy the "bouncing around the tip" thing. Show me proof and I will believe, but with my experience, they shoot well.. I dont use any of my other barrels anymore actually.

[yakitori]

First off the guy running around with the claim to fame that the barrels with the short size reducers, or inserts, are the best, is full of crap. the idea that the ball will get what it needs from a 1 inch shaft launch is moronic ot say the least. it was a way to make more fast, and cheap.

then the bounce in the barrel, yeah it does matter, alot, it breaks, it that matters to you?

the only good thing about a stiffi switch kit is that it is smooth enough to bow it out nice.

I have had a Hammer head for a Very short time, and i HATE IT! selling it FAST.

but others love it.

Look up warpig and google the barrel research.

think of it like this. remember those rockets you used to lauch off of a steele rod. long rod, straight take off?

short rod, went all over the place?
and this makes no sense either, if we are getting a barrel for all this money for a paint size, why just 1 inch? then the rest of the barrel .691? What the #^%$&* is this crap...

TOM, come Back and fix this!
Eric

sorry, but thats not accurate. Balls dont bounce around any more in a switch kit than any other barrel where the paint doesnt match. The barrel sizers are only 2 inches long because if you think about the process of firing a ball, the bolt pushes the ball into the end of the barrel (in the case of the switch kit) and then the burst of air hits it. The rest of the switch kit is a stepped bore. I think it is .695 though, not .691. And it doesnt effect breakage, or accuracy much at all. A lot of ppl just get a one peice .691 and shoot all paint through it. The ball is traveling so fast that it doesnt have much time to bounce around. Its usually in contact w/ one side or the other of the barrel because the sizer is honed enough to shoot it straight thorough the barrel. The switch kit has been very accurate for me and I actually have Less breaks w/ it than any one peice barrels.

Also, yes you want to be careful w/ the switch kit in a ULE body because the sizers have holes in them to stick an allen key in to loosen when they get stuck in the gun. What happens is the barrel unscrews and the sizer stays there. W/ a ULE (not sure about Tac 1, but prolly the same) the sizer screws all the way into the body and the body overlaps the holes in the sizer, therefore if it comes off of the barrel and stays in the body, you will have a hell of a time getting it out.

[billmi]

it is .691 for a nice fit around your paint for the ball acceleration. After it leaves that, it has been fully accelerated

If this were true, you could screw in just the 1" back section, and your shots would be at the same velocity as the shots out of the full barrel.

Somehow, I doubt it.

[yakitori]

If this were true, you could screw in just the 1" back section, and your shots would be at the same velocity as the shots out of the full barrel.

Somehow, I doubt it.

true, and this could refute some comments about effective barrel length. Ppl say 2 peice stepped bore barrels only have an effective barrel length of the back, not the front. If that where the case, they should chrono the same w/ the front off or on. I doubt that to be the case w/ the two inch sizer backs.

I can try and see.

[XtremeC]

sweet man, i started a debate...

ok from the comments i read, even if the 1 inch sizer does or doesn't affect the velocity, and if it does or doesn't break in the barrel it is pointless to get this sizer kit if I can't get it out of my barrel

thanks for the info

[indulgence]

all I said was that the ball would get the speed it needs from the back. I didn't say that, the back is all you need. The front is for directing the ball to where it needs to go. And I highly doubt that the ball would break in the tip because of that "bounce" actually, I don't even think it would bounce that much at all.

[Eric Of Extreme Measures]

I think it is .695 though, not .691. And it doesnt effect breakage, or accuracy much at all. A lot of ppl just get a one peice .691 and shoot all paint through it. The ball is traveling so fast that it doesnt have much time to bounce around. Its usually in contact w/ one side or the other of the barrel because the sizer is honed enough to shoot it straight thorough the barrel. The switch kit has been very accurate for me and I actually have Less breaks w/ it than any one peice barrels.

See here is a problem with this statement that makes more sense with mine?

the J&J that have here is .689 at the back, being a one peice it is .689 at the front.
Great barrel, some would say the best there is, next to the dye Boomy.

then the Dye Boomy, .689 at teh back, but runs 6inches of that size before letting it go in a larger tip. that is .699

then the Stiffi .689 at a 1 inch back or 1.5 if that is what it is, the it is .700 the rest of the way.

that just dont see right to me.

there has to be room for bounce and play in the barrel.

Even Hammerhead thought this to be true. the intorduced the Rifeld tips to ELIMINATE that bounce by catching that loose ball and redirect it in a correct path via the groves.

ask any one and they will say one peices are more acurate, Bommy's are next in line.

but hey, these are the questions to be asked for ever and ever, Tom was working on the perfect paintball, remember, but that issue is dead. they will have it. Buy good paint, thats the answer to it all.

Eric

[Eric Of Extreme Measures]

this was done with my Mic's in my hand too. i have all these barrels right here, performed all these tests.

the team owns and uses, and has tested the:

Hammerhead
Sceptor System
Freak
J&J Edge
Stiffi Switch
Boomy's
Longbow kit
Dye Ultra's
J&J one peices
Amrson's


Barrels of my Choice, in order: J&J Edge- 12" and 14"
Longbow Titanium
Boomy's

Others on the teams like the others and swear by them too.

To each them own...

[yakitori]

The point I am trying to make is that even though the sizer is only 1-1.5 inch long that the ball doesnt accelerate completely in the sizer only. It has to accelerate some in the barrel even though the barrel is a stepped up bore. Otherwise you would get the same chrono result by removing the tip and shooting the gun w/ the sizer ONLY. Thats not going to happen. You will get less velocity w/ the sizer only than w/ the sizer and barrel together.

ANd the stiffi switch is .XXX (whatever sizer you are using) and stepped to .695.

The ball is accelerating so fast that it doesnt bounce around. Its such a tight space that even if it diverged from its flight path that it wouldnt be enough impact to cause a break. I personally dont think that the ball "bounces" inside of a barrel. Its traveling at 200+mph, and the barrel is 14" or so on avg. The ball may touch one side or the other , but I dont imagine it as going like. /\/\/\/\/\/ inside the barrel.