my new (to me) ironmen autococker

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  • slade
    Carpe Noctem
    • Apr 2004
    • 3442

    #16
    Originally posted by Jaan
    True, but it would tell him two things, what the output pressure of his vertical reg is (and if it recharges fast enough), and if there is a valve problem. Maybe once he gets used to tuning the gun up and is more familiar with it he'll want it.
    how would the gauge tell you if you have a valve problem?

    ill look to see if there is a leak, and try re-timing it. what in the timing would give it poor efficiency? and what spring kit would be the best in regards to efficiency? (for a low price)

    minimag - i thought about a new HPR, but i dont really want to spend the money. plus that would be sort of pointless to buy a new HPR when i havent installed a gauge yet.

    also what 3-way do i have? im guessing its the bomb, considering its always leaking... if i have the LPR too high, the trigger wont return; too low, and the 3-way leaks non-stop.

    oh yeah, and its an Ironmen autococker and says on the frame "used by Team Ironmen". Is it actually a marker used by the team, or just a private label autococker, like a dynasty shocker, russian legion timmy, naughty dogs freestyle, etc.?

    thanks everyone.

    oh, and the reason im looking for better efficiency is, well, because my two other guns are a mag and a freestyle. id like a gun where i wont have to fill the tank after each game.
    xvalve, ule body, logic vert frame, WWA barrel
    68/30 PE nitro tank
    cp unimount
    halo B

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    • Jaan
      It's Pronounced *John*

      • Apr 2005
      • 1310

      #17
      Originally posted by slade
      how would the gauge tell you if you have a valve problem?

      ill look to see if there is a leak, and try re-timing it. what in the timing would give it poor efficiency? and what spring kit would be the best in regards to efficiency? (for a low price)
      Well, the gauge gives you an indication of what's happening to the air as it's comming into the gun and going through the valve. If the valve is sticking, or as it happened to me before, it's come loose, you'll see that the air pressure isn't going back up quickly enough after the shot is fired. It looks cool too.

      As far as the springs go you just buy a pack with different ones with both a valve spring and hammer spring. Nelson based spring kit is what you want for that old gun ... the newer 'Cockers take a longer hammer spring. The springs will be color coded and they were usually Yellow, Green, Blue, and Red going from soft to heavy. Start with the lightest set and work your way up until you can get it to chrony. You can of course mix them but there's not a lot of times you'll need to do that.

      I've always liked the information that Otters Customs have on thier web site concerning 'Cocker timing ...



      I have a bunch of parts for those old 'Cockers, if you need anything or just need help contact me if you want. Good luck.

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      • FSU_Paintball
        (well, not any longer)
        • Aug 2002
        • 618

        #18
        Provided your valve is sealing properly, your best bet for efficiency is a new spring kit.
        FSU Paintball
        Eblade Dye Ultralite Minicocker, gun metal grey (click)

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