Come on people, answer me please.

[Mild 7]

I posted these questions yesterday but no one seems to responded. I really would like to know the answers to these questions. So I'm posting them again.


1. I'm planning to get a SP Freak. For those of you who already own one, how do you like it? Pros and cons?

2. Right now, I'm using a DYE '12 SS and Lapco Autospirit '12 SS. What's a good paint and barrel match?

3. Why does the ball come out of my RT as an "arc" rather than a flat trajctile<--not sure that's how u spell it. Is it me, the mag, or just a wrong barrel match? The reason I ask is because shockers and cockers have a flater trajctile. Does high pressure & low pressure factor in?

4. I just got the Intelliframe not long ago. I put 65 rounds of Diablo Blaze into my hopper and shot it fast as I can and clear the hopper about 15 seconds. That's only 4 bps but I think it's already pretty fast. How do all of you achieve 12-15 bps without an electro frame? I just want to know how do you guys come up with that 12-15 "finger-pulled" trigger PER SECOND. I personally don't need to shoot that fast, I just want to know how that is achieved.

5. This is a stupid question but I had to ask. Is there anyway I can clear the scratches on my chrome RT without replacing the whole body? Any chemical or "things" I can do or use to clear it or polish it?

6. I did the paint/barrel match test with my Lapco vs. Diablo Blaze. I bascially turned blue trying to push the thing out with my breath. Obviously, it's not a match. But i was still capable of doing question #4 stated above without breaking any balls. Is it just luck? My range definately suffered 'cause of friction, correct?

7. So none of you ever heard or dealt with paintballhouse.com eh? I asked 'cause I posted it that 3 days ago and nobody answered. As a note, they're based out of TN.

Thanks for your patience and I appreciate any answers to broden my horizon.

[Jonno06]

answers

here are my answers:
1.I dont have that barrel,so i dont know.
2.Don't know that either.
3They are closed bolt
4.I guess practice,i can get around 8.
5.Don't know.
6.Try a different paint or barrel.
7.I have never heard of them...why do you want to know?
Thes are just my answers.

[Load SM5]

1. Freaks are pretty good in helping you get a good paint to barrel match but they are terrifying to try and clean out. I'd maybe look at the CP barrel kit instead.

2. I've heard marbs are great for Dye SS but I don't have mine yet. Here's a paint to barrels size chart to help you out a bit...http://shireonline.com/technical/barrels/

3. The only reasons I can think of are small movements caused by the action of your firing are causing your aim to be thrown off or your velocity is not as high as the cockers/shockers. One gun does'nt shoot flatter or longer than another if the velocity is the same and they are held equally still.

4. Practice...

5. That I don't know....sorry.

6. That could definately affect your accuracy and range if your having to change the shape of the ball to get it out of the barrel.

7. Never heard of them...

[Rob @ DNR]

Answers...

1) The freak system is great. Very good barrel to paint fit every time. I check the fit before evey game. Don't forget, weather will change the size of paint very quickly. I prefer the freak over the CP kits for one reason. I have 4 guns, and one freak kit with four backs. If I had the CP kits I would need to buy thirty-two back pieces to match what the freak offers.

2)Once again, every brand of paint is going to be different. Also, the same brand can be different from batch to batch and color to color. You did the right type of test to see if it fits correctly. The Lapco barrel you have is a tight bore. The best thing is to get a dial indicator and check the internal size.

3)Check your velosity, put it in the 280 to 290 FPS range, or where your local field allows it. An object of the same weight, size and speed will travel the same distance. Doesn't matter what gun it's fired out of. Laws of physics...

4)Practice, practice, practice...

5)Use very fine grit wet sandpaper. Then use a good metal polish like Mothers Mag and aluminum wheel polish. You can get it at Pep boys.

6)Yes, range and accuracy will suffer due to the drag of the barrel on the ball. Also, with a fit like that, I am amazed you didn't bust a few in the barrel.

7)I own a pro shop, no need for them...

Hope I helped you out a bit. See ya.

[Drizit]

well all the answers i was going to give were alread given.
but i do have a few points to add.



3. closed bolt vs. open will *edit* not *edit* make to diff in the arc of the ball. see http://www.warpig.com/paintball/tech...osedopen.shtml
for more info on that. the only thing that will flatten out your trijectory is back spin. ie. the flatline barrel, for the tippman and cocker or the glactic z-body for the mag.

6. your range an accuracy shouldn't be diminshed by a tight barrel if the paint still leaves the barrel at the same speed. however your chances of a barrel brake go up as does the amount of gas you use.

also this realy should be in the tech forum.

[a_malfunction]

This is quoted from Warpig....
" By testing under controlled circumstances we were able to isolate the subject of our test (the bolt operation) from the other variables involved. Firing our marker as an open bolt, blowback operated semi-automatic, we found the same level of accuracy, as when firing as a manually operated closed bolt marker. Our conclusion - the great "inherent accuracy" of closed bolt markers over open bolt markers is a myth. "


This is the conclusion of the test they did a long time ago. Where do you see that closed/open or high pressure/low pressure has anything to do with trajectory? In fact, that article refutes the very thing you just claimed it said.

[Load SM5]

There's a discussion going on about all of this in Deep Blue. http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=20862 Take it there, before this gets going too much, so Mild 7 can have his thread back.

[Mild 7]

Quote from Warpig..

Jonno96 - Thanks for replying. 8 bps is very very quick.
I don't even think I can blink that quick. Yes, I
will practice, and once I achieve it, I'm going
to change my nick from Mild 7 to Sticky Fingers.

LoadSM5 - Thanks for replying. I find that all aftermarket
barrel are a pain to clean, especially the SP
All Americans.
I have one on my cocker and I know exactly what
you're talking about. I can also imagine Freak
will be twice as bad to clean it. Thanks for the bore size data. I already have that one and a few other ones. To be honest, I never got a chance to try it out because every field I go in NY requires field paint. I was just wondering if any of you ever went along the paint/barrel data and get any positive results out of it. I guess I'm gonna have to do try this myself. But it's all good.

Rob@DNR - Thanks for the reply. Fine grit wet sandpaper? You want me to sand down my all ready chromed body then polish it? I just want to remove a few scratches. You sure? Can't I just polish it without sanding it? I'll go to Home Depot and look for that Mother's Mag and Wheel Polish.

As far as the barrel goes, I'm suprised too. 'Cause I've been using the "tight-bore" Lapco Autospirit all summer shooting Diablo Blaze. I never broke 1 ball out of my RT 'till EITHER the revy stop feeding causing it to chop or my gun goes on run-away mode (which is fixed). Other than that, it shoots nicely.

I guess that's where my problem is then. The tight bore creating friction on the medium size Blaze, 'causing the drag and therefore creating the arc on the flight, which shortens the shot.

Drizit - Thanks for the reply. I understand some of the questions asked by me can be subjected to a technical explanation..or a vague one, or none at all, since it's really my 3rd time posting it and finally got a reply. But I definately appreciate your info. I just had a few general questions I wanted to be answered all together instead of going from forum to forum.

a_malfunction - Thanks for the reply. I was told by a sales person at a paintball store regarding the "arc" of a paintball coming out of a mag is due to the bolt design. However, I was very skeptical so I came to you guys for more facts. As far as open and close bolt wise, that was only an assumption of mine but kind of irrelevant to this matter at this point. After all the response I've receive, and based on my experience with this "arc" issue, I think I just have to find the right paint/barrel match.

As far as my question toward www.paintballhouse.com, I just bought about $200 worth of stuff off of them. I inquired about them prior to my purchase just to check if they're any good in service and reliablity. Since I already made my purchase, it doesn't reall matter at this point.

Again, thank you all for the detailed response.

[Drizit]

sorry my bad i just missed the word "not"

man i realy need to pay more attention

also you will find that barrels with more porting will be harder to clean on the field. the freak becomes even more of a pain because then insert can get paint between it and the outer part of the barrel. and the bolt design has nothing to do with arc. cooper-T even tried to make a back spin bolt for the cocker, guss what it did. (let me give you a hint... about the same as most aftermarket parts... nothing.)

[X-Plosive]

Everything has been covered except for one thing. When people say they are capable of shooting 12 bps, it doesn't mean they emptied a hopper at that constant speed. Shooting 12bps could be measured by shooting 2 shots and finding the time between each shot. You are than able to put that time into an equation and solve for your variable which will give you the bps. Some people who claim to shoot 10bps also don't shoot that speed for much longer than a short burst of shots. It is VERY hard to mantain speeds that high. There is a guy from Butterscotch yo who shoots really fastand is able to mantain the speed, Tom has the stats posted somewhere on here. I am not really sure about getting those scratches out, if you sand it even with high grit wet sand paper and use mag polish it will most likely turn out duller than before but the scarcthes may not be visible. Everyone has all those little tiny nicks on their guns, it just happens.

[Rob @ DNR]

You can get the Mothers polish at auto supply places like Pep Boys. You will not find it at home improvement places...
Also, I thought you had polished pieces, so the wet sanding will be bad on chrome. I have to read a little better... While you are at your local auto supply place, look for a metal or chrome rubbing/buffing compound. I bet they have something like it.

Also, any ported barrel is going to be "messy" when you squeegie it out. Barrel choices are like the cloths you wear, everyone likes something different. The freak isn't too bad to clean, at least not as bad as any other barrel. Well, at least on the field it cleans out like any other tube with holes in it. When you get home, you will have a few more pieces to wash out. But, if you use multipule barrels, then you have just as much cleaning to do any way

[billmi]

Originally posted by a_malfunction
(re: WARPIG Ballistic Labs open/closed bolt accuracy test)
This is the conclusion of the test they did a long time ago. Where do you see that closed/open or high pressure/low pressure has anything to do with trajectory? In fact, that article refutes the very thing you just claimed it said.

You're right on the money, the test was structured to test accuracy by means of grouping size - not trajectory.

However - some anecdotal evidence not covered in the test report. The groupings on the target were not signifigantly higher or lower with either open or closed bolt mode (i.e. I didn't measure for it, but it didn't appear different). To really nail the trajectory issue down would require performing the same test and marking the grouping center at multiple distances to eliminate the possibility that the target was at a point where the two divergent trajectories intersected. Observationally, though, the trajectories didn't appear any different.

See you on the field,
-Bill Mills