Finally, vids of the arachnamag... don't get excited

**Arstron** · 01-01-2006, 09:01 PM

I will let you know how I enjoy the dragun ultra chip.

**SpitFire1299** · 01-01-2006, 10:12 PM

For the second video, and how it wasnt shooting.. then you hit the back.. and it shot; I think its because your thumb screw on the back is too tight.

**atm743** · 01-01-2006, 10:20 PM

Originally posted by SpitFire1299

For the second video, and how it wasnt shooting.. then you hit the back.. and it shot; I think its because your thumb screw on the back is too tight.

thats what he was thinking when we were playing at nvp

he kept on taking it off and then putting it on looser.

**warbeak2099** · 01-02-2006, 01:02 PM

Yea, it actually shoots when I hit the valve. In the vids, my fs screw is so loose that the frame wobbles. So is the front frame screw. It's got to be a dwell problem I think. I went to a larger carrier and it still happens. It must not be bolt stick. I'm now dissasembling the gun and sending it to Ken at KPC. I am confident once I play with it, it will work just great. I will tweak the noid placement so it's as close to the sear as possible and I'll try setting the dwell higher. Thanks everyone, here's a preview of what it might look like after powdercoating:

http://www.jayloo.com/files/pics/31000/Warbreak_automag_rs.jpg

Courtesy of bunny5, one of the best photoshoppers I've ever seen. I think I'm going to have the black reach a little farther back though.

**11 Bravo** · 01-03-2006, 01:18 PM

I have a Mini Morlock in my Hypermag and I have the settings at: Dwell 29 and Fire hold off at 31. It works great, I can outrun my Reloader B. I think the Morlock uses ms also, so I would suggest trying those settings.

Note: Before you ask if it uses up batteries. The answer is no, the batteries seem to last and last.

**Asym** · 01-03-2006, 04:13 PM

Mine did something similar when I first made mine, started skipping shots. My problem was the solinoid was breaking loose so I drilled holes in the back of the frame on both sides of the sear and used set screws to hold the solinoid from moving back. My mod was done on a dragun TES frame and the flip removes most of what was holding the solinoid in place. The force of the solinoid closeing makes it move over time. Now I adjust where it needs to sit and they're loc tited in and don't move.

On the dragun board it keep firing untill the battery is dead. Low batteries either work or they don't for me, there is no slow down from a low battery. Not sure if this is the same on the spyder T-boards.

And just for reference I think I set my dwell at 12ms but my debounce at around 25. I was also using quad o-rings in my ULT since it was on a classic but have since gone back to the standard o-ring that comes with the ULT.

**warbeak2099** · 01-03-2006, 05:47 PM

Ooooooh!!! I will try lociting the set screws for my noid in place. Great idea, thank you!!!

**Asym** · 01-04-2006, 01:08 AM

Loctiteing the set screws you already have most likely won't hold the solinoid in place over time. The force of the solinoid will break it loose. All frames that use those solinoids have mounts to keep it from moving back or forward, the set screw thats built in the frame keeps it in place but have the frame mounts to help stabilize and take most of the force from the solinoid closing.

I think Arston had the same issues which he has some pictures of the extra set screws in the back of the frame in his tutorial. Before I installed mine it worked fine for about a case of paint and it would start having similar issues to what yours is doing. I'd then have to remount the solinoid.

Do you have anything behind the solinoid to keep it from moving back? If you don't, look at installing something like the set screws there. It makes the solinoid mounting more stabil so you don't need as much force on those top and bottom set screws.

**SpitFire1299** · 01-04-2006, 02:10 AM

Originally posted by atm743

thats what he was thinking when we were playing at nvp

he kept on taking it off and then putting it on looser.

What about the bolt bumper? Is it glued? Chewed up? Ive had these same problems. I bought a new bumper, and didnt tighten the valve screw all the way.

**Arstron** · 01-04-2006, 08:29 AM

Originally posted by Asym

Loctiteing the set screws you already have most likely won't hold the solinoid in place over time. The force of the solinoid will break it loose. All frames that use those solinoids have mounts to keep it from moving back or forward, the set screw thats built in the frame keeps it in place but have the frame mounts to help stabilize and take most of the force from the solinoid closing.

I think Arston had the same issues which he has some pictures of the extra set screws in the back of the frame in his tutorial. Before I installed mine it worked fine for about a case of paint and it would start having similar issues to what yours is doing. I'd then have to remount the solinoid.

Do you have anything behind the solinoid to keep it from moving back? If you don't, look at installing something like the set screws there. It makes the solinoid mounting more stabil so you don't need as much force on those top and bottom set screws.

Actually the set screws in my pictures are from the factory, I still havnt gotten around to putting set screws in to hold my solenoid.

The stock frame has stops bilt in to keep the solenoid from moving backwards and forwards and I leave enough there when I am cutting to take use of them. Since I havnt used set screws yet, I did have a problem with the solenoid moving from side to side, I taped a peice of paper to my grips to solve this problem. Set screws do work 100% better though.

How much space is between the sear and the top of the solenoid?

**Little_Ho** · 01-04-2006, 08:37 AM

Hi

i had a similar problem, I used to use 4 Shims in the ULT, after i had Boltsticks like that.

I had to smack the Back of the Valve to get it reset. I figured out that my ULT needed more Shims.

So I would try to play with the ULT maybe remove all of the Shims and start fresh and see how the Valve is acting.

Maybe that will help. But definetly try to play with your Shims.

My 0.2cents

Little_Ho

**RTspag** · 01-11-2006, 06:34 PM

edit: i found the pics.

if you take valve out of the frame, and just use your finger to put a little force down on the back of the sear to act as a return, will it shoot fast with no probs?

the only time my mag acted like yours in the video, was when I had a emag valve in it with 6 ult shims, and I put a new rt pro sear in it and there was around 1/4" gap between the trigger rod and the trigger, it fired exactly like that lol. plop....plop....plop. I have a whole separate problem with my mag ..... listen to the 3rd string of shots as my noid fizzes out http://media.putfile.com/spymagdry

**snoopay700** · 01-11-2006, 08:57 PM

It's looking good, and i'm glad i finally got to see a video of it rather than just pictures. And why does it seem to be that the only people who understand 13-14 bps is fast and it's hard to get too much faster than that are people who own automags? I mean everyone else i've talked to claims they can keep up 18 bps or more for half a hopper. Oh, and also, you're lucky because you got snow, i wish it was still like that here, but winters in illinois suck now.

**warbeak2099** · 01-11-2006, 09:44 PM

The gun is in parts right now. I'm waiting for a reply email from Ken at KP Customs to confirm my order. When I get that I'll send the parts out to him. They're packed and ready to go. When they get back, I will get it working correctly with eyes and I will take more vids and pics.

Finally, vids of the arachnamag... don't get excited

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