So many main bodies!?!

[Dave_NG]

Ok, so here's the deal...I was looking into buying a Pro Classic (or possibly a MM) and I don't know what the differences are between the main bodies (i.e. HR, PF, HL, WL...etc.). I was wondering pros and cons between the different types, and weather the Level 10 bolt was such an improvement to cost $85. I currently own a Tippmann Pro-Lite and love almost everything about it like the duribility and look (I'm even ok with the accuracy...or lack there of). I'm just finding Pro-Lite parts and add ons to be scarce since its been out of production for something like 8 years. Also, how good is the accuracy of the Pro Classic?

Any info is greatly appreciated,
Dave

[geekwarrior]

the differences in bodies are hopper left, hopper right, warp left etc, it signifies which side your hoppers on. The warp is made for warp feed. If you are looking to upgrade your body, look at a ule body.

the lvl 10 is worth the money, you can find tem used on here and ebay for around $60.

Accuracy is going to depend on your paint and barrel. Look into the barrel kits with different backs. With a good barrel the classic is very accurate.

[ttink]

Id get a ULE body, centerfeed not warp (unless you already have a warp). And yes, i tihnk the level 10 is great, it elminates chops.

PS.

PF/HR- powerfeed, hopper right
PF/HL- powerfeed, hopper left
CF- Centerfeed
WL-warp left
WR- warp right
RF- standard right feed found on the stnadard SS amg bodies.

[mark_1791]

The differences between the main bodies is reguarding the feed tube placement. HL means the hopper is on the left side, and the tube comes into the left side. HR means the same thing for the right. PF is powerfeed, meaning the tube crosses over the center of the body.

As far as the level 10, it is a great improvement. It makes your gun never chop. Unfortunately it requires slightly more tuning and tinkering than the normal bolt, but once it gets tuned you won't have to tune it again for a very very long time.

As far as accuracy goes, it is all basically determined by the paint to barrel match. I had once never worried about this, but once you get the right size paint for a barrel you will be amazed at the accuracy. At least I was.

[Tao]

Ok, so here's the deal...I was looking into buying a Pro Classic (or possibly a MM) and I don't know what the differences are between the main bodies (i.e. HR, PF, HL, WL...etc.). I was wondering pros and cons between the different types, and weather the Level 10 bolt was such an improvement to cost $85. I currently own a Tippmann Pro-Lite and love almost everything about it like the duribility and look (I'm even ok with the accuracy...or lack there of). I'm just finding Pro-Lite parts and add ons to be scarce since its been out of production for something like 8 years. Also, how good is the accuracy of the Pro Classic?

Any info is greatly appreciated,
Dave

If you are looking to put a lvl10 upgrade you may want to look at the RT pro ule custom for a little bit more. it has better performance (lvl 10 installed) and very cheap upgrades. Take a look, if you are not wanting a lvl 10, a pro classic is the way to go, however I would go with a RT pro custom is only $40 more WITH a lvl 10 already (doesn't come with a barrel like the pro classic does), and it has a reactive trigger for a better rate of fire. You should be able to find a barrel fairly easily for cheap here or e-bay.
If you want a good gun but nothing fancy and you will NEVER upgrade it then the pro classic is a great gun. I use an old classic for rec play myself!

[Dave_NG]

thanks alot guys! I think I may just go with a Pro Classic, since mostly I play rec ball and don't really need quite a high rate of fire as speed ball players may desire. <---hey, that rhymes