Grr, this cocker is ticking me off....!!!

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  • punkncat
    One foot less
    • Feb 2003
    • 5841

    #16
    I didn't mention the timing, but when I started noticing the problem I "loosened" up the timing to avoid the back block slapping the cocking rod. While I have been changing the setups and testing I have left the 3 way timed way back in the trigger stroke, with the sear lug set as normal. I had run into this problem before trying to get the tightest timing possible...I know how to find that now.

    As as far as sweet spotting the reg, I appreciate the input and am thankful to know I have been doing it right all these years.

    More than likely I am going to order a new set of springs just in case, and get a rebuild kit for the Sidewinder and go from there with some premium paint. I may just borrow a new reg from the shop for a few minutes and test it outside.

    I guess on the laughable side I have learned a few things. The shocktech bolt is less efficent than the black magic delrin bolt. The Ratt valve doesn't operate as low a pressure as the stock? valve. Actually I am not sure what this valve is. It's made of stainless and has an orange Oring. The stem is one piece of some composite with a small softer insert on the cup seal side of the poppet. It looks exactly like an Evil valve except that it is drilled all the way through so as there to be no way to put in upside down so to speak. The only stock WGP valves I have seen were all brass.

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    • VFX_Fenix
      -=Bishop=-
      • Sep 2004
      • 1052

      #17
      There are some Cocker guys who firmly believe the stock WGP Valve is the best valve for the job. The valve in my Cocker is as described but made of Brass, the Orracle valves were made of Stainless and again, as described.

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      • vivalamexico
        Registered User
        • Sep 2002
        • 175

        #18
        check your valve jam nut and make sure it isnt loose this can cause erratic velocity as well as destruction of the gun body if it backs completely out.

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