Different Lubes

[jenarelJAM]

I've been seeing more and more mentions of different types of lube.
I have always used that yellow pneumatic tool oil. One brand of it is Gold Cup oil.

I've been reading about how DOW33, hater sauce, etc. are more popular, and was wondering if and why these lubes work better.

What would be the best kind of lube for my viking? and how much of a difference would it make performance-wise over gold cup.

[magman007]

use the aka lube for a viking, hater sauce etc will just gum up your marker, these lubes are more popular on less tolerant dependant markers, like spoolers and timmys, because of the use of orings, which are not the most in spec thing in the world. the viking is quite tolerant dependant, therefore only requires a thin vicscious(sp?) lube.

[Mind'sEye]

Gold Cup is a mineral based oil which can cause residue or sludge as it evaporates. The move has been to synthetic lubricants. KC Trouble Free, AKA Extreme Lube and PMI oil are good alternative synthetic oils. AKA Extreme Lube was recommended by AKA for it's markers. The recommended lube procedure for AKA markers is to put a drop or two in the asa (or HPR macro fitting) and dry fire. Mineral based oils like Gold Cup are not recommended because they might harm the pneumatic solenoid.

[knightlord]

Dow is the best. it's friction proff water proff it just stays there even after use..

Smart parts makes like 3 different types

33 31 and 55
i have no clue what the dif is.. other then price

[BD_Paintball]

it really depends on what kind of gun you are using. different lubes for different types of guns.

[CKY_Alliance]

Dow is the best. it's friction proff water proff it just stays there even after use..

Smart parts makes like 3 different types

33 31 and 55
i have no clue what the dif is.. other then price

I dont like dow for one reason..its so thick that if its the slightest bit cool you have to "warm-up" your gun by trying to dry fire it untill the firing mechinism frees up...it took like 15 minutes to get my friends shocker shooting this winter..when it was in mid 50's...so ye..ive been told not to use dow on matricies..dont recall why maybe too thick..i like dye lube it has a nice consistancy. Umm ye thats my 2 cents...

[Indi86]

I dont like dow for one reason..its so thick that if its the slightest bit cool you have to "warm-up" your gun by trying to dry fire it untill the firing mechinism frees up...it took like 15 minutes to get my friends shocker shooting this winter..when it was in mid 50's...so ye..ive been told not to use dow on matricies..dont recall why maybe too thick..i like dye lube it has a nice consistancy. Umm ye thats my 2 cents...

That's odd, becuase Dye Lube is notorious for seizing up guns in the winter. The DYE tech I called up when I needed a fix for my proto even recommended Dow 33 for the gun. Keep in mind Dow 33 was formulated for cold weather environments.

[rkjunior303]

Do not use anything other than AKA Extreme lube (or another 100% synthetic gun oil -- NOT gold cup!) in your Viking... The tolerances are far too tight for something like SlickHoney, Dow33, etc. a drop or two of AKA lube in your ASA before you play should be good.

[BD_Paintball]

I dont like dow for one reason..its so thick that if its the slightest bit cool you have to "warm-up" your gun by trying to dry fire it untill the firing mechinism frees up...it took like 15 minutes to get my friends shocker shooting this winter..when it was in mid 50's...so ye..ive been told not to use dow on matricies..dont recall why maybe too thick..i like dye lube it has a nice consistancy. Umm ye thats my 2 cents...

i ONLY use dow33 if its cold out. it workes very good for cold weather. on the other hand slick honey will get like that in the cold.

[CKY_Alliance]

i ONLY use dow33 if its cold out. it workes very good for cold weather. on the other hand slick honey will get like that in the cold.

Maybe its a different number dow...i dun know but yea i was looking around and saw that dow 33 is actually recomended for matricies...what number dow is that smart parts "sleek"? Well i dont know ...only lube ive had problems with in cold weather was one of the smart parts lubes..well i take that back my friends 06 proto would have to warm up too, but i dont know what lube he was using..i think battle lube..and im not sure what that is..

which reminds me my proto needs to be lubed...ehh fun

[slade]

Dow is the best. it's friction proff water proff it just stays there even after use..

Smart parts makes like 3 different types

33 31 and 55
i have no clue what the dif is.. other then price

Smart Parts makes Dow? thats a new one. you should tell the dow chemical company that, you can find their contact information at www.dow.com.

and actually there are hundreds of types of dow lubricant.

I dont like dow for one reason..its so thick that if its the slightest bit cool you have to "warm-up" your gun by trying to dry fire it untill the firing mechinism frees up...it took like 15 minutes to get my friends shocker shooting this winter..when it was in mid 50's...so ye..ive been told not to use dow on matricies..dont recall why maybe too thick..i like dye lube it has a nice consistancy. Umm ye thats my 2 cents...

your two cents arent worth the copper and zinc theyre made out of.

(sorry, that was too lame to not say)

first of all dow is thick because its made to be thick. most lubricants werent made with paintball in mind. however, dow works great in many markers. what you are talking about is caused by overlubricating your marker, it shouldnt "stick" too much. and dow 33 is formulated specifically to work at low temperatures, so it certainly isnt caused by the cold (dow 44 is for high temperatures). the main difference between dow 33 and 55 is 55 swells o-rings more than 33 does, which can be good or bad depending on the situation. they both work well at low temperatures.

as for the differences between lubricants, first of all there are oils and greases. oils are often either petroleum based or synthetic. synthetic oils are generally better, providing better lubrication, lasting longer and requiring less maintenance. however, synthetic oils are more expensive.

greases are composed of a base oil, thickener, and additives. the base oil is generally either petroleum based or synthetic. they have a thickener which, as the name implies, are solid particles which thicken the grease. different thickeners, such as aluminum or PTFE can change the properties of the grease, and additives are also used to alter the grease for its specific application.

oils allow smoother movement, while greases tend to last longer and do a better job at stopping leaks.

what is the best lubricant for your marker? it depends on what marker you have and what the specific application is. you have to use oil in a marker such as a viking, and oil is also better for a mag, spyder, cocker or tippmann. most electropneumatic markers use greases but some are better on oil.

spool valve markers (matrices) run well with dow33. greases tend to stay on the o-rings better. however, since greases are oils with thickeners and additives, you can easily dilute it with more oil. adding oil to dow33 will make it slightly less thick, and people have been doing this on matrices for a while. have you wondered what this over-hyped "hatersauce" is? its dow with oil in it. "specifically formulated for paintball"...? come on, they did what other people have been doing and marketed it... i thought about doing the same for a while.

[jenarelJAM]

So since the consensus seems to be to change from "gold cup" or whatever came with my emag when I bought it from agd, to the aka lube?

Anything I should do to get rid of the old oil before adding the new, or should I just add new in the asa?

What kinds of performance increases can I expect to see because of this?

[slade]

What kinds of performance increases can I expect to see because of this?

less cleaning, and a better running ability.

it'l lighten your wallet a bit

[guysdaman]

So since the consensus seems to be to change from "gold cup" or whatever came with my emag when I bought it from agd, to the aka lube?

Anything I should do to get rid of the old oil before adding the new, or should I just add new in the asa?

What kinds of performance increases can I expect to see because of this?

Or go with KCtrouble free...100% pure synthetic...awesome gun lube!

Take apart clean off the old oil sludge and relube with either aka lube or KCtrouble free. Depending on how long you've been using goldcup you might want to replace all your o-rings as goldcup tends to make them swell and or deteriorate.

I don't know weather you will see performance increases but, you should notice smoother operations if your switching over from gold cup.

[slade]

Or go with KCtrouble free...100% pure synthetic...awesome gun lube!

Take apart clean off the old oil sludge and relube with either aka lube or KCtrouble free. Depending on how long you've been using goldcup you might want to replace all your o-rings as goldcup tends to make them swell and or deteriorate.

I don't know weather you will see performance increases but, you should notice smoother operations if your switching over from gold cup.

superlube is also good lube, its synthetic and contains PTFE. it depends on what marker you have though, i assume youre speaking about a mag?