AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Can somebody walk me through why it is so impossible to make devilmags?
Oh, but that isnt completely true (as I just found out recently), the Dragun Tboards from scenario dreams can handle up to 40 volts and the solenoid gets what ever voltage the battery supplies. This weekend I got one of his Dragun Tboards to work in my emag, I am not sure where I am going to mount the board yet, but I have gotten it shooting.
What kind of dragun tboard? I see on the scenario dreams website that there are two differant types.
The dragun TES board is what I am using, it has a capacitor and is made for a sear tripper. The Dragun The One (or T1) is made to be used with a pneumatic solenoid and does not have the capacitor. I am still working with damon from scenario dreams on getting the hes to work, but I just ordered a couple 5vdc regulators that should help with that. If you are interested in doing this, I would advise you to wait until I can test it more in depth incase any problems do come out of this.
Arstron-If the board that you used was designed to use a basic electromagnent to trip a sear, then could you not use any board similar to it, like a spyder board? And futhermore, why wouldnt you just use the T1 board? It seems like that would work better. I realize that you might have to have some sort of capacitor or something to get it to work off of a 9volt, but it sounds do-able.
I do realize that this is off of the forum topic, but I am curious.
Arstron-If the board that you used was designed to use a basic electromagnent to trip a sear, then could you not use any board similar to it, like a spyder board? And futhermore, why wouldnt you just use the T1 board? It seems like that would work better. I realize that you might have to have some sort of capacitor or something to get it to work off of a 9volt, but it sounds do-able.
I do realize that this is off of the forum topic, but I am curious.
I honestly dont know if the T1 board will work or not. The boards are very similar and are the same size, with the only noticable diffrence being the cap. I just happen to have a few tes boards sitting around so thats what I am using.
I will try removing the cap from one of my boards and see how that works, but I really dont see how the cap could hurt anything.
btw, I do have a thread about this in the workshop, I suppose I should have posted here since it seems no one reads the work shop that much.
Its not the complexity, its the fact that you will be able to do next to nothing in house (I assume).
Frames - going to have to have frame blanks made and polished - this is out of your control
Solenoids - going to have to find a reliable solenoid and a source for solenoids - out of your control
Boards - as mentioned, need boards which are pretty application specific - another thing out of your control
Anno - time and quality out of your control
Switches etc are all there as well. With GADevil the general feeling was that everything out of his control that could go wrong seemed to - slow machine work, slow anno, sudden lack of availability of boards / solenoids. Now there are of course other issues, but you need to be well aware of problems that may occur.
"Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. Its not" - Dr Suess
Its not the complexity, its the fact that you will be able to do next to nothing in house (I assume).
Frames - going to have to have frame blanks made and polished - this is out of your control
Solenoids - going to have to find a reliable solenoid and a source for solenoids - out of your control
Boards - as mentioned, need boards which are pretty application specific - another thing out of your control
Anno - time and quality out of your control
Switches etc are all there as well. With GADevil the general feeling was that everything out of his control that could go wrong seemed to - slow machine work, slow anno, sudden lack of availability of boards / solenoids. Now there are of course other issues, but you need to be well aware of problems that may occur.
Yes alot of things may but not always go wrong. I think the only real thing you should worry about is cost. But so far I have my frame selected, found were to get the solenoid, use A+ for anno jobs, because they been good to me. The only thing I am working on right now is deciding what type of 9 volt board to use and whether to use either a pull type solenoid (Emag) or Push type solenoid (Spyder/EBlade cocker).
P.S I plan to use a micro switch in place of the HES sensor to activate the solenoid. Does anyone know if Devilmags also use micro switches?
Are you using a frame that is already "milled" for a solenoid or are you going to "mill" it yourself? Getting the frame "setup" with mounting points for all the pieces seems like the hardest part.
Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
Hitech is the man.... :eek: - Blennidae The only Hitech Lubricant
Are you using a frame that is already "milled" for a solenoid or are you going to "mill" it yourself? Getting the frame "setup" with mounting points for all the pieces seems like the hardest part.
I actually plan to mill it myself. I am not sure if you remember, but I had made a post a while back about using a different type of solenoid on an Emag with lower voltage to reduce weight and add eyes so I could replace the lvl 10 with a lvl 7 and increase efficiency. Well since I had already xmoded the Emag and tried it out, I found it not worth risking messing up a gun that made up for not having eyes and little efficiency for the solid performance it showed when I used it. So I have planned to sell the lowers of the other emag I have, to buy a frame and maybe a board. I have planned to use the same pull type solenoid you advised me on using with the emag that is a 9 volt. Ofcourse ULT will be required and using a chimera frame is my idea so far, and also plan on using a microswitch like the devilmag except I plan on placing it above the trigger set it off. Kind of like where the E/M switch on the Emag is. Let me know what you think.
devilmags are super easy to make. I ordered 10 frames last week and they all arrived on time and pre anoed. All I did was use rubber cement to paste the pre coded boards into predriled place, hook up the connectors, flip the capacitor switch, toggle the dongle switch, and dongle the toggle switch. Make sure to toggle the dongle first our else the widget will function at the proper capacity. After that just pop in a battery and shoot like mad. I have alrady shipped all 10 as well!!
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countdown on devilmag day........ill let you now
The assembly of the Devilmag is not the complex part - though it is surely not simple.
The hardest part of the Devilmag is getting all the right parts together.
The shipping dwarves were under attack from the cocker elves flooding Wal-Mart. And trying to get the solenoid fairy and Morlock troll to work with the Mag gnomes is just utter futility.
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