dwell and electronic mags

[eNder159]

so i have a devilmag and well im still new to the electronic game but i was wondering what's a good dwell time for electronic mags? I heard too low of a dwell time can damage the bolt and chip or wear the sear out prematurely. What do x/e-mags have as dwell times? currently i have mine set at 8ms and it seems like its shooting all my shots when i put it in fast ramping mode.. What are some good dwell times out there?

[BigEvil]

so i have a devilmag and well im still new to the electronic game but i was wondering what's a good dwell time for electronic mags? I heard too low of a dwell time can damage the bolt and chip or wear the sear out prematurely. What do x/e-mags have as dwell times? currently i have mine set at 8ms and it seems like its shooting all my shots when i put it in fast ramping mode.. What are some good dwell times out there?

Depends on what type of electro mag you are talking about;

A regular production Emag or Xmag the dwell is somewhere between 15ms and 30ms depending on how you like to shoot and what software.

A devilmag, Spydermag, or Hyperframe with the pancake noid that directly trips the sear IIRC is between 5ms-12ms.

In my electro-pnuematic eframe, there is a solenoid which activates a ram which trips the sear.. I have shot it at 3ms, but find that 5-10 is better. (ULT)

Of course, how much force is needed to move the sear directly affects dwell... If more force is needed, the noid might have to be 'on' longer to work reliably.

If you do notice the bolt edge chipping (not wearing, wear is normal, it will probably wear much faster if its an electro), then raise the dwell.

[eNder159]

Depends on what type of electro mag you are talking about;

A regular production Emag or Xmag the dwell is somewhere between 15ms and 30ms depending on how you like to shoot and what software.

A devilmag, Spydermag, or Hyperframe with the pancake noid that directly trips the sear IIRC is between 5ms-12ms.

In my electro-pnuematic eframe, there is a solenoid which activates a ram which trips the sear.. I have shot it at 3ms, but find that 5-10 is better. (ULT)

Of course, how much force is needed to move the sear directly affects dwell... If more force is needed, the noid might have to be 'on' longer to work reliably.

If you do notice the bolt edge chipping (not wearing, wear is normal, it will probably wear much faster if its an electro), then raise the dwell.

ok ill give those ranges a try next time on a field with all day air etc etc thanks big evil

[BigEvil]

;D i have a devilmag its the 4th word into my post

ok ill give those ranges a try next time on a field with all day air etc etc thanks big evil

No prob....


Yeah i saw you said Devilmag... I was just clearifying

[nicad]

Tom had suggested that Emag software have a dwell of no less than 30ms or there could be damage to the sear. However, this was driving a larger solenoid, which more than likely had a slower reaction time (I am guessing here??), as opposed to the smaller clapper noids used in hyper/devil frames.

[11 Bravo]

I use a dwell of 3 in my Predatored Hyperframes. Works great no premature wear. Also its fast.

[REDRT]

Tom had suggested that Emag software have a dwell of no less than 30ms or there could be damage to the sear. However, this was driving a larger solenoid, which more than likely had a slower reaction time (I am guessing here??), as opposed to the smaller clapper noids used in hyper/devil frames.

2ms in semi mode and all seems fine. Can't do it in ramping modes I have to stay at 10ms ramping. Emags are built like a brick, well you know. Tom created an awesome marker! Still to this day able to be up'd enough to compete through outside sources. My question is if Tom/AGD never intended to push it's limits, why built said marker in the first place? After all isn't that the point? Always striving to be better. A big let down for them to just abandon their development.

[11 Bravo]

Always striving to be better. A big let down for them to just abandon their development.

Amen!

[AGD]

The 30 ms dwell time is for the bolt to come back and bounce off the bumper and settle back. If you release the sear after the bolt bounces it will not chew into the sear. If you release the sear too soon, the bolt will ride the sear back and when it bounces off the bumper, it will crash into the sear on the rebound causing early wear.

AGD

[REDRT]

The 30 ms dwell time is for the bolt to come back and bounce off the bumper and settle back. If you release the sear after the bolt bounces it will not chew into the sear. If you release the sear too soon, the bolt will ride the sear back and when it bounces off the bumper, it will crash into the sear on the rebound causing early wear.

AGD

I'm sure you are correct, but what fun is having a slow marker? Please continue to make parts. Once in a blue moon I might need something.

[eNder159]

The 30 ms dwell time is for the bolt to come back and bounce off the bumper and settle back. If you release the sear after the bolt bounces it will not chew into the sear. If you release the sear too soon, the bolt will ride the sear back and when it bounces off the bumper, it will crash into the sear on the rebound causing early wear.

AGD

would the size of the solenoid effect the wear/dwell time as what nicad suggested? im about to up the dwell time to 30ms since you described why 30ms was needed.But if the dwell time is dependent on the size of the solenoid then will decreasing the dwell have any affect(effect?) on the wearing of sear/bolt?

[eNder159]

soi looked my sear and it looks like the edge part that hangs onto the bolt is wearing down ..what does that mean?

*EDIT* i have included pics





the second pic, Is this what you were describing Tom about releasing the sear to early causing the bolt to rebound against the sear causing the early wear?

[REDRT]

soi looked my sear and it looks like the edge part that hangs onto the bolt is wearing down ..what does that mean?

It means it is wearing. After all the sear is a wear part, it will not last forever. I had to replace the minimags sear. The Classic RTs and the Emags look like brand new. What killed the minimags was the plating flaked off. Much like the very little used almost new ULE nickel body in my gear bag. Chances are you'll sell it long before you ever need to replace it.

/I wouldn't call that little bit wear. I wish I had the minimag sear to so you. That was wear!

[eNder159]

It means it is wearing. After all the sear is a wear part, it will not last forever. I had to replace the minimags sear. The Classic RTs and the Emags look like brand new. What killed the minimags was the plating flaked off. Much like the very little used almost new ULE nickel body in my gear bag. Chances are you'll sell it long before you ever need to replace it.

does it look like the pics i posted?

[REDRT]

Your sear looks fine to me. The minimag had no hook left were the sear catches the bolt. Completely shaved down and rounded. Still worked but the thing was so sloppy at the pivot point and it was even slightly untrue. I had to replace the sear of this poor minimag I bought.