XMOD help -- is my solenoid bad?

[Pneumagger]

I suspect I have an incorrectly wired solenoid. When I put FIX 0 in MOD SEMI...I get no bounce. But in MOD RELS, I get the sweetest bounce ever. Like i can hold it and get strings of paint off.

This means reversed wiring right? If so is it as simple as switching the noid wires and resoldering?
I was also thinking that switching the hall sensor polarity would have the same effect as reversing the solenoid? Logically, it shouldn't hurt to try.

BTW I recently changed my settings to:
Mode = SEMI or HYPR+hybrid or FULL
ROF = 20
Dwell = 15
Fix = 16
ACE = OFF (level7 emag no eyes)

EDIT: this should probbably be in the tech section. sorry bout that one guys.

[BigEvil]

Did you do the "Compass Test"?

..or at the least try and up the FIX?

[BigEvil]

OH, another thing too....

Make SURE the trigger rod is not bouncing off of the trigger. Back it off or take it out to make sure.

[Pneumagger]

well I did the fix test wit it set at zero as per the Xmod manual. It gets no bounce in Semi and Amazingly sick "zac vetter viking" bounce in release. I figured that was proof enough and ALSO - I don't own a compass.

/speaking of the manual - Although jaw-dropping, 925psi + hyper/hybrid @ 20bps did not give me wet dreams, so yeah... I guess I need to turn up the ROF. I didn't want go any faster with air and break something, but it seemed to do that rather easily. Also... it bounced like a half second After I let go of the trigger doing this.

[Pneumagger]

OH, another thing too....

Make SURE the trigger rod is not bouncing off of the trigger. Back it off or take it out to make sure.

Oh yeah... when I said bounce I meant like the electronic type of debounce associated with FIX...not the mag bounce. Atach took care of me when tuning it up.

[BigEvil]

Oh yeah... when I said bounce I meant like the electronic type of debounce associated with FIX...not the mag bounce. Atach took care of me when tuning it up.

Sometimes at the higher ROF its hard to distingish between the electo and mech bounce. I had one that drove me nuts until I realized it....

[Pneumagger]

if it's any consolation... there is bounce with no air input and the valve removed. So I think it's safe to assume that it's electronic bounce -hehe

Anyways, I'll do the compass test and if i do have a reversed noid...All i need to do is swap the wires?

[rkjunior303]

wasn't this the same problem that AGD's 4.X software had - with the virtually full-auto bounce.

[BigEvil]

if it's any consolation... there is bounce with no air input and the valve removed. So I think it's safe to assume that it's electronic bounce -hehe

Anyways, I'll do the compass test and if i do have a reversed noid...All i need to do is swap the wires?

Yeah that sounds like reversed wires. Get a $5 compass and check it out. If they are, just switch them.

Here's the real kick in the butt - sometimes they will get that no matter what, just alot less with the noid's polarity corrected. Once you make sure the gun passes the compass test, you can up the FIX to help manage any bounce if it still has it.

The FIX will reduce your shot buffer. If you have to set it ridiculously high to get it not to bounce, try switching the wires back to the way they were. You dont want to eliminate the shot buffer, it kind of defeats the purpose. Sometimes getting it right is hit-and-miss.

wasn't this the same problem that AGD's 4.X software had - with the virtually full-auto bounce.

TO answer your question, yes it is the same thing. It is a problem inherent to the Emag design. The HES will pick up the magnetic field from the solenoid and interpret it as a trigger pull. It will be really bad with the solenoid wires reveresed. correcting that changes the polarity of the current (or something like that) and helps the problem. Then what happens, as you cycle the noid at higher speeds the magentic field it creates is stronger and doesnt disapate completely.

[A-Tach-One]

Personally I don't see a reason to switch wires, if your only getting a FA issue in Release mode, just up the fix a touch. If it is goes FA in any mode you try and the fix is no help at all then switch wires. Take a look at post #9 and #10 in the Beta Tester thread.

Post #9 "my solenoid is wired incorrectly, ie, it goes full auto in release mode, which is why i have the fix at 19. However it shoots fine in semi even with fix set all the way to 0. so i was wondering if there is any point to fixing the wiring or setting the fix to 19 since i only shoot in semi or psp mode?"


Post #10 Quote from Lornecash responding on page 1 in the Beta Testers thread, "If it's not broke don't fix it. You are one of the lucky ones. If you don't have any problems set the FIX to 0. If Full auto bugs do occur you know the steps, Increase the FIX and then if necessary switch your solenoid wires."

[11 Bravo]

I thought if you had 0 bounce in semi, but you did in RELS that the noid is wired correctly. Its my understanding that you are going to have bounce in one of those setting, but not in both settings. So if you switch your wires your going to have FA (bounce) in semi and none in RELS.
I think your noid is wired correctly. Leave it alone. :)

[Pneumagger]

yeah...I just put it on fix 16 so I could run hypermode without tons of bounce... but is there is still a hint of bounce when I release. If I wanted though I could run 0 fix and shoot in Semi with no bounce so I'm happy.