which marker for woodsball & few shots

**doc_Zox** · 09-27-2006, 08:36 PM

thats a 12 gram co2 powered classic 68

http://premium1.uploadit.org/docZox/PB/tacmag02.jpg

**jnjloo** · 09-27-2006, 09:16 PM

hmm,
looks like the 68 classic auto with angled feed, expansion chamber, level 10 bolt, remote air, and sight rail might be just what I need. Glad I didn't get a rt pro.

So.................... honestly, has anyone ever had an A5 flatline and a 68 classic so they can give an honest comparison. I was accuracy, distance, and reliability. (yeah, I know don't want much) oh yeah, and affordibility :) I'm in about the 300 ish price range

thanks again
dan

**Shirow** · 09-28-2006, 06:22 AM

Accuracy and distance are not going to be much different, marker to marker. If you shoot a paintball at 280fps, it's going to go the same distance (variable based on barrel, paint match etc.)

All you really should think about is:

Does this gun do what I want?
Will it run on CO2?
Is it easy to maintain?

Both the A5 and the Pro Classic fit those requirements. Which one is better? I like mags - they are more upgradable. If you have no plans to ever go to HPA or have no interest in upgrading, then maybe the A5 would be better for you - you don't have to buy an agitated hopper for it.

Really, those are the only things worth comparing, IMO.

**jnjloo** · 09-28-2006, 07:50 AM

hmm, then if accuracy and distance are about the same marker for marker (is that all markers or just these two?), maybe I should just stay with my sypder shutter??? It doesn't seem overly accurate tho, even with 4 different barrels.............
dan

**mobsterboy** · 09-28-2006, 08:29 AM

a5's felt too breakable to me. The trigger was really plastic and weak feeling, there was no real trigger pull response to it, it felt honestly like a capcom time crisis gun when i pulled the trigger on a friends a5. I hate the design, they made that thing too bulky and their cyclone feed is only as good its tuned to be. Just pick up a standard classic valved mag on the Automags.org Buy/Sell/Trade section, I'm sure you can find a cheap classic with lvl 10 for like 100 to 150. Pick yourself out a couple upgrades or keep the difference. personally, Im going back to a classic valve, it was and always will be my favorite, hands down for woodsball

**Shirow** · 09-28-2006, 11:44 AM

Originally posted by jnjloo

hmm, then if accuracy and distance are about the same marker for marker (is that all markers or just these two?), maybe I should just stay with my sypder shutter??? It doesn't seem overly accurate tho, even with 4 different barrels.............
dan

Well, maybe the barrels all suck, plus you are using CO2 which isn't going to be terribly consistent. Maybe the paint is horrible?

I shot one of my friends Spyders back in the day and it shot all over the damn place too, so maybe Spyders are just cheap pieces of junk with crooked bolts or something, I don't know.

Let me rephrase - I doubt you would notice a huge accuracy difference between an A5 or a Pro Classic, but I would agree that A5s feel cheap to me.

**yingyang** · 09-28-2006, 02:12 PM

You think about going pump?

**jnjloo** · 09-28-2006, 09:40 PM

no, no pump, had one back in the day, and prefer to shoot a little quicker if I need too. We usually play with a 50 rnd limit, so not 10/sec obviously, but once in a while..............

I think i'm going to rental a few from a guy in town to narrow it down, I just can't decide for sure. Like to test a few and see for myself, should help.

thanks all
dan

**Toll** · 09-28-2006, 09:50 PM

I got my a5 cheap as all hell and I was relatively happy with it, I find the flatline to be over rated for what it actually gives....what good is 15 more feet when your marker now sounds like a cannon and you are lucky if the wind doesnt take them well off course.

Maybe an Autococker? They are pretty good on co2 but if something goes wrong, they're a headache.

**Marroonblooded** · 09-29-2006, 01:42 AM

had spyder for years, but with out a decent bolt (venturi or bob long riffle effect bolt like me

) they suck... maybe you just need to upgrade what you got... they shoot hot but are fairly dependable with proper cleanning and lubbing as with every other gun (except for cockers they like to be difficult) However an automag is better, more consistant... kinda like comparing cheap bicycle or car to a nicer one... automags are sturdy as hell ( i have broken 3 spyder frames and the whole gun is kinda chauncy, works fine... but...)

The A5 is a decent gun... played with one two weeks ago... i like the concept and unique is always cool, but its big, loud, clumsey(sp), and did i mention big? (huge compared to the mag which means more tangle ups in the woods).

and the flatline... all i can say is that this needs to be added to the gimic thread for sure!

In paintball the so called "accuracy" is really precision or the ability of the gun to be consistant, not accurate... if you know consisitantly where the ball will go or act (my spyder with the bob long bolt is very presise but not so accurate, has a consistant rise followed by a very slight clockwise like motion... you can then evolve to accuracy via aim adjustment

Also, even with only 50 balls in your hopper... if you do ever need to pump out some paint, the automag is considerably faster thant the a5

**Mag11806** · 09-29-2006, 04:09 AM

out of the markers you're considering, i'd go with the mag. new minimags are around $240 direct from AGD, used ones are available for around 100-150 if you look around a little.

if you're not ripping on it, the classic valve should be ok on co2 as long as you aren't playing in colder weather.
i've owned a minimag for years and in my experience, they're still one of the lowest maitenance/ most reliable markers out there. as a plus, depending on where you play, the mag will stand out more than a tippman.

**Banshee23** · 09-29-2006, 09:20 AM

Originally posted by Marroonblooded

had spyder for years, but with out a decent bolt (venturi or bob long riffle effect bolt like me

) they suck... maybe you just need to upgrade what you got... they shoot hot but are fairly dependable with proper cleanning and lubbing as with every other gun (except for cockers they like to be difficult) However an automag is better, more consistant... kinda like comparing cheap bicycle or car to a nicer one... automags are sturdy as hell ( i have broken 3 spyder frames and the whole gun is kinda chauncy, works fine... but...)

The Bob Long & venturi bolts for the spyder aren't very good at all, not sure where you found your info. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock bolt as long as you remove the venturi from it (very easy to do, you just unscrew it from the fromt of the bolt). The best bolts used to be the AKA lightning bolt or the check-it bolt, not sure if either are made anymore though.

jnjloo, your inconsistentcy problems probably stem mostly from both your barrel choice & your reg (biggest thing). The shutter reg is awful, if you moved to a real reg like a Palmer stablizer you'd see a definate shot to shot consistency improvement which should lead to some accuracy improvement. With the barrel, get a good but relatively cheap barrel like a CP one piece. Stay away from 32 degrees & CMI barrels and the like, they tend to be not very good. Do the stock bolt mod to your gun or buy one of the anti-chop bolts they make now for spyders. And don't use really cheap paint, no marker or barrel makes crap paint fly straight. That should help your shutters performance. Or just get a classic mag with lvl 10, an exp chamber, & a remote line

P.S. If you want to go the fix your spyder route here's a link to the BEST spyder upgrade/tinker/upgrade page ever: http://web.archive.org/web/200502050...m/upgrade.html (Otter's site is down right now so you need to view it from that link - the web archive page rocks

)

**jnjloo** · 09-29-2006, 03:04 PM

thanks all,
appreciate the spyder comments too without just saying something like "all spyder's suck" as I have had mine for a long time and liked it. I can shoot one shot perfectly on spot (with my red dot scope), but shooting several in a row makes it go all over the place, with also makes me think that it might be the regulator. I have just bought a new barrel jt I believe 14 inch seems ok, but didn't make any difference.

Sure is hard getting your mind around what to do. Had my choice down to a 68mag or a a5, leaning towards the mag, went into the local shop, n he says mags suck autocockers are best and never mess up if you don't take them apart and mess with them....... opposite of what i'd heard. Need to be like old henry ford and jsut have one choice :). "you can have any color you want, as long as it's black"

I'll try the bolt mod, you say it just screws out banshee?, worth a try. Instead of a Palmer reg, which is about 110, I think I still will try a diff gun, will keep the shutter for backup tho, (sold my 2nd one to get a new gun), as I rarely have any trouble with it, always works.

confused, but still working on it

dan

**Marroonblooded** · 09-29-2006, 04:04 PM

Originally posted by Banshee23

The Bob Long & venturi bolts for the spyder aren't very good at all, not sure where you found your info. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock bolt as long as you remove the venturi from it (very easy to do, you just unscrew it from the fromt of the bolt). The best bolts used to be the AKA lightning bolt or the check-it bolt, not sure if either are made anymore though.

jnjloo, your inconsistentcy problems probably stem mostly from both your barrel choice & your reg (biggest thing). The shutter reg is awful, if you moved to a real reg like a Palmer stablizer you'd see a definate shot to shot consistency improvement which should lead to some accuracy improvement. With the barrel, get a good but relatively cheap barrel like a CP one piece. Stay away from 32 degrees & CMI barrels and the like, they tend to be not very good. Do the stock bolt mod to your gun or buy one of the anti-chop bolts they make now for spyders. And don't use really cheap paint, no marker or barrel makes crap paint fly straight. That should help your shutters performance. Or just get a classic mag with lvl 10, an exp chamber, & a remote line

P.S. If you want to go the fix your spyder route here's a link to the BEST spyder upgrade/tinker/upgrade page ever: http://web.archive.org/web/200502050...m/upgrade.html (Otter's site is down right now so you need to view it from that link - the web archive page rocks

)

I will agree that they aren't great but a lot better than the bolt that came on my spyder... not even a true venturi... and I have found my bob long to be great... for an old bones spyder anyway (nice and consistant)

**olinar** · 09-29-2006, 04:20 PM

Originally posted by jnjloo

hmm,
looks like the 68 classic auto with angled feed, expansion chamber, level 10 bolt, remote air, and sight rail might be just what I need. Glad I didn't get a rt pro.

So.................... honestly, has anyone ever had an A5 flatline and a 68 classic so they can give an honest comparison. I was accuracy, distance, and reliability. (yeah, I know don't want much) oh yeah, and affordibility :) I'm in about the 300 ish price range

thanks again
dan

i acutally own a flatlined a5 and a classic.
for the milsim look its definitely the a5.you can make a classic look milsim but itll take wuite a few parts. the flatlined a5 shoots farther than anyother barrel.but accuracy is definitely compromised.especially with rapid fire.my a5 looks great but its not all its cracked uo to be then again anythin tippman is like that. i have been dissapointed too many times by my tippys but ,my classic keeps me happy.

which marker for woodsball & few shots

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