info on non CO2 air systems?

**tribalman** · 09-28-2006, 10:56 PM

welcome and congratulations on getting your mag. on the hpa tanks are usually displayed like this 45/68 or 45/88. The first number should actually be like this 4500. it means how much PSI the tank can hold. the second is now many cubic inches the tank is. 68cu and 45cu are very common.

with a CO2 tank get a professionally installed anti-syphon tank and either an expansion chamber or use the gas thru. if you use a regulator you will only starve the valve, it already has a reg and a mag doesn't need 2.

to me the Lvl 10 isn't worth it. i can't get it tuned to the point that it wont chop or chuff at random times. as long as you are using a decent hopper you shouldn't really need it.

**Tool-of-death** · 09-28-2006, 10:59 PM

Originally posted by Marroonblooded

Officially an automag owner as of yesterday, Whoop!... anywho been away from pb for awhile can someone inform me on all the pmi 36-64/7800... jk I believe I know the benefits over CO2 being consistancy and not freezing your gun, but what the crap do all the numbers mean... and the mag doesn't need any converting to run air right?... so can I run either? should I invest in a tank? what the crap is hydro'd?

i got an old school used classic automag only up.s are benchmark 2x trigger (already started to set up trig stop), fore grip, a drop forward and SP teardrop barrel

also... should I get a gas thro grip or reg or exp. chamber (appearantly hard to find these days being outmoded for regs) for using CO2 (not really intereseted in remote feed... the guys I normally play with would flip out and think bc they dont have it, that it means my gun is way better which as everyone knows = better player

)

Sorry if this is a waste of time... but i used to have a spyder compact back in the day till i gave it to my lil bro... so an Automag was/is the rolls royce to me, I'm a little giddy... like a little school girl... and i ain't very little (being 6'1 235) so thats really saying alot... i think...

Also I understand that lvl 10 is bad ***... and I want it... but trying not to spend too much just yet... is it comp.ly necesary? I'm not trying to waste my money on paint (I dont need to pump out 20bps) but I would like to be able to spit some out if i need to (just got a revvy- as electronic as I will ever go)... do I need it? ( I already want it, but need?)

Thanks! and BTHO texas tech

Get a palmer sideline stabalizer it was pretty much made for the automag, it also does a better job of keeping liquid CO2 out of the valve than an X-chamber ever will.

Link: https://palmer-pursuit.com/ecom/prod...07482528be3b1a

**Marroonblooded** · 09-28-2006, 11:25 PM

thanks for the quick replies... feels great to be apart of such a friendly group of peeps...

I forgot about the anti syphon, my tank already has one... but I should probably check to make sure the threads match up so its not upside down... that would suck,

I have read other places as well that talk about constant fine tuning with lvl 10... I'm not so big into that... (if i liked to fiddle with my gun all the time to make it work (properly),i would've bought an autococker)

is it just me or could that last () sound a lil dirty? I could've made it a lil worse... ha

**Marroonblooded** · 09-28-2006, 11:28 PM

whats the diff. btwn a stabilizer and a reg?

**Tool-of-death** · 09-28-2006, 11:31 PM

Originally posted by Marroonblooded

whats the diff. btwn a stabilizer and a reg?

A palmer stabalizer is a reg.

It is just DESIGNED to work with CO2, and it does it even better with HPA.

**Marroonblooded** · 09-28-2006, 11:32 PM

So I'm assuming that the higher the psi the better? (as PV=nRT... ha finally getting to use my bio degree for something)

**Marroonblooded** · 09-28-2006, 11:33 PM

got ya... kinda seemed like they were

**Marroonblooded** · 09-28-2006, 11:40 PM

another question to add on... what is all this hub bub about high or low pressure systems... why would you want low? doesnt it take the same amount of force to move a paintball either way? it seems as tho a high pressure system would just result in a quicker recharge (i believe is what you call it)

**Tool-of-death** · 09-28-2006, 11:53 PM

Originally posted by Marroonblooded

another question to add on... what is all this hub bub about high or low pressure systems... why would you want low? doesnt it take the same amount of force to move a paintball either way? it seems as tho a high pressure system would just result in a quicker recharge (i believe is what you call it)

Pretty much yeah, but low pressure guns are usually quieter than HP guns.

**Marroonblooded** · 09-29-2006, 12:23 AM

That makes since, are automags high or low as stock?

**Triangle** · 09-29-2006, 12:39 AM

Originally posted by Marroonblooded

That makes since, are automags high or low as stock?

High, and they will always be a HP gun regardless of what you do to them.

**FinchMan** · 09-29-2006, 12:45 AM

mags are really "medium" pressure. (The pressure in the burst chamber is around 400 psi.) But you will want a high pressure tank.

I suggest that you check your anti-syphon, and buy a used expansion chamber for cheap. Then get a lvl10 (also used if you can find a complete one in the BST section of AO). IMHO the lvl10 bolt is a better upgrade at your level than a compressed air tank. The lvl10 is pretty stable once you install it.

Here's a link to the lvl10 guide: http://automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

**phizz** · 09-29-2006, 12:56 AM

Just a quick note on tanks, not sure where you are located, but some countries require different regulations, and these are shown in the numbers on the tanks. If you live in Canada you have to make sure you have the TC number on your tank, or you can't get it filled. STates all you need is a DOT rating.

As for hydro, thats a test that is done on a tank to make sure it is safe to use if you do not have an up to date hydro again you won't be able to get the tank filled. Tanks usually require a hydro test every three or every five years. The tank will usually say which. The hydro test where I am (Canada) cost $40, but I have heard it advertised for as low as $20. the hydro test will appear usually on a tag on the tank. if hydroed today it would be 09 06. This is on a carbon fiber tank, I think steel tanks are different it would be 0912306, the 123 being the coding for the company that did the test and will be different for each place.

**Marroonblooded** · 09-29-2006, 01:19 AM

Originally posted by phizz

Just a quick note on tanks, not sure where you are located, but some countries require different regulations, and these are shown in the numbers on the tanks. If you live in Canada you have to make sure you have the TC number on your tank, or you can't get it filled. STates all you need is a DOT rating.

As for hydro, thats a test that is done on a tank to make sure it is safe to use if you do not have an up to date hydro again you won't be able to get the tank filled. Tanks usually require a hydro test every three or every five years. The tank will usually say which. The hydro test where I am (Canada) cost $40, but I have heard it advertised for as low as $20. the hydro test will appear usually on a tag on the tank. if hydroed today it would be 09 06. This is on a carbon fiber tank, I think steel tanks are different it would be 0912306, the 123 being the coding for the company that did the test and will be different for each place.

Thanks for the answers, good stuff. So any real threat/risk in buying used (don't really feel like spending 200 on a new one at the store down the road... I'm in TX btw)

is air or nitrous more effeceint than CO2 as well (i am assuming so if they are more consistant) and all i need to do is buy a nitrous tank and hook it up ( nothing else?)

info on non CO2 air systems?

info on non CO2 air systems?

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