My plans...

[sTaLa]

1. Pneumag - I'm in the process of ordering the parts and it will be done for the next season;
2. Warpfeed and warp body;
3. E-mag Rail and Battery pack.

I plan on running my Empire II and the warp feed with the E-mag battery (mainly because I can't find any gas thru foregrip that I like and that four 9V batteries will be a lot of batteries to take care of).

I'm sure I can figure out how to plug the battery.
1) But will I have any problem with the position of the sear? Will the MPA-3 hit the sear without any problem?
2) Will I be able to use an RT pro sear or I'll have to use the Emag sear and cut its front part?

Here's the parts list needed... I'll defenetly try to get it used. Tell me if you see anything missing.

$80 E-mag rail
$40 Battery housing assembly
$80 Battery pack
$80 Battery charger
$?? Sear assembly
$?? A cord for the charger: I can only find the car adaptor on airgun.com

Total is more than $300 for that setup from airgun ... I'll shop for sure... it's only to get an idea.
Thanks

[warbeak2099]

The Emag battery pack does not connect to the rail. It connects to the trigger frame. You'd need an adapter if you aren't using an Emag frame. Contact RRFireblade or Coolhand. Both are swamped with work though. Maybe try Luke too.

[Lenny]

Well, I'm no expert, but I don't see anything missing. When I built my 'Mag, I bought everything used. I spent:
$60 for a ULE'd EMag rail with RT foregrip screw slots milled
$60 (I think) for a black ULE body
$20 midrise CCM clamping feedneck (perfect for my Revvie)
$130 for a MicroMag RT valve
$120 for a Logic UMF frame (when Logic still had them. I've seen them go as high as $300 now)
$Free RT vertical ASA (Thanks Pay it Forward!)
$15 Bike grip gas-through
$15 Unimount On/Off ASA

Total: $420

It's still not done, either. Pneumagger has it right now to make it an EP Automag, and after that it's going to Luke for some eye milling and such, then finally to Gruntbull's for a nice anno.

So, even if you pick up everything used, you're going to be spending more money than any girlfriend/wife should ever know you have. It's going to be expensive, but definately worth it.

And for your questions, sear position shouldn't be a problem at all (in fact, it should never be a problem) as long as everything is placed correctly. And for #2, EMag rails accept RT sear assemblies, so an EMag sear is not at all required. Either way, though, you'll have to cut it off from the clevis down (where the pivot point leading to the trigger rod is).

Have fun! And be sure to post pics when it's all done!

[sTaLa]

The Emag battery pack does not connect to the rail. It connects to the trigger frame. You'd need an adapter if you aren't using an Emag frame. Contact RRFireblade or Coolhand. Both are swamped with work though. Maybe try Luke too.

I'm not sure about that, but I think theres a wire running by the rail from the battery to the grip frame. My idea was to split that wire in the grip frame and play with some resistances to get the right V and A for both the warp and the loader.

[sTaLa]

.

And for your questions, sear position shouldn't be a problem at all (in fact, it should never be a problem) as long as everything is placed correctly. And for #2, EMag rails accept RT sear assemblies, so an EMag sear is not at all required. Either way, though, you'll have to cut it off from the clevis down (where the pivot point leading to the trigger rod is).

Have fun! And be sure to post pics when it's all done!

Great. That means I can make my pneumag now; and when I'll get the E-mag rail and the RT Pro sear assembly, it will be plug and play (after I removed the rod from the sear) .

And don't worry about the pics... I won't be done soon though...

[warbeak2099]

I'm not sure about that, but I think theres a wire running by the rail from the battery to the grip frame. My idea was to split that wire in the grip frame and play with some resistances to get the right V and A for both the warp and the loader.

Ok, but I am sure about it. The battery pack does not connect to the rail. It slides onto the trigger guard and is held in place with a thumb screw. So if you want to use a battery pack without an Emag frame, you NEED an adapter.

And I do remember that there was some way to run your warpfeed off of the Emag battery. I don't remember what it was though.

[SR_matt]

id be worried about the maH (or what ever teh abriviation for miliamphours is) since the batter is designed to sysle a selenoid X times (dont know a shot count off hand from a charge) which i dont think would take nearly as much power as to cycle both a warped and a reloader. if you can do it more power to you but i would be worried about it shorting out or just not lasting long.

happy wiring, if you get it all set up and working well please post a list of the wiring you had to do (i know many people would be interested)

edit-if you cannot get the both to run off it look into a Li Ion pack ( http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/...oAAAEJqkAMxXSu ) thats the one i got and it works well (ive ran probably 4 cases through it so far and havent seen any drop off in the power and it is very light)
-matt

[sTaLa]

Ok, but I am sure about it. The battery pack does not connect to the rail. It slides onto the trigger guard and is held in place with a thumb screw. So if you want to use a battery pack without an Emag frame, you NEED an adapter.

And I do remember that there was some way to run your warpfeed off of the Emag battery. I don't remember what it was though.

OK, I now get what you mean. So that means an E-mag rail would not be necessary right?
But the wire runs from the battery, by the rail, to the grip frame right?

[Lenny]

...maH (or what ever teh abriviation for miliamphours is)...

It's mAh. Just sayin'.

[SR_matt]

i knew i got it wrong , o well, thanks
-matt

[sTaLa]

The E-mag battery pack is 16,8V and 650 mAH. I think my best bet would be to try to put a 9V with a higher AH rate in the E-mag housing.

Does anyone know what is the inner size of the battery housing?

Thanks.

[sTaLa]

I did a bit of maths. The E-mag battery is rated at 16,8V and 0,65AH. That means that if I convert the courant to 9V, I'll get 1,213AH.

I tested my loader (Empire II) and it uses 0,2A at 9V. That means I could get 6,07 hrs of continious power on the loader.

I don't have a warp yet, but I assume it uses also around 0,2A since it uses two 9V batteries as my loader does. If I'm right on this, the E-mag batterie would give me around 3 hrs of continious power for both the loader and the warp feed.

How long do you think a loader and a warp feed work in a paintball day. I think that 3 hours is enough... but I'm not quite sure.

And if someone could measure the inner size of a battery housing it would be very appreciated.

Thanks.

[SR_matt]

if you shoot a case ill guess 2.22222 hours (this is assuming it takes 2 seconds per unit per shot)

-matt

[sTaLa]

So far so good. It is pneumatic and warped! Now I have to find (or a build) a 12V battery that will fit inside the battery pack.

[SR_matt]

isnt the emag battery 16 volt? if so jsut get a resister

-matt