Tac One

[Drego]

I'm a newbie Automag owner who just purchased a Tac One with centerfeed, Xvalve, LvL10 and was looking for some tips or tricks that aren't already in the sticky notes. The gun came with the 2 piece ported barrel (I think J&J from reading the forums and correct if wrong) and wanted to know what is the best paintball to barrel match for this gun and if I should purchase an upgraded barrel? I've got an HPA tank (crossfire 68/3000) with a fixed output of 850 psi. Should I get a regulator to increase the amount of shots off of a full tank and if so, what advantageous benefits will be achieved other then more shots to refill?

I've already purchased the VLoader hopper and noticed the weight of this gun is a bit heavier near the grip and was possibly thinking about a drop forward addition to counterbalance the weight. I do have a remote line and other then losing weight, what benefits will be achieved by using it? I mainly play woodsball with walk-ons. Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

[txaggie08]

Your automag already has one of the best regulation systems on the market, so no purchasing a new reg wont help

[etjoyride]

Actually, purchasing an aftermarket reg can do more harm then good, this is because that would mean you would be double regging the marker which could cause the marker to be starved of air.

a drop or rail is all about preference, i personally use a rail now.

I can tell you know that you will not be getting a whole lot of shots with a 68/3k, not a terrifyingly low amount, but not as much as you would probably want.

Welcome to the mag family

[jenarelJAM]

Okay, I think you have a few preconcieved ideas that I'd like to correct.

#1. By itself, a regulator will not magically increase shots. All a regulator does is regulate air. It makes it come out at a specific(usually adjustable) pressure. Your tank has a regulator. It's set for 850 psi. Your Xvalve also has a regulator, set to whatever it needs to be set to to make the valve work. The Xvalve *NEEDS* around 800+ psi to operate. Putting another regulator on will decrease pressure, and possibly make your gun nonfunctional.
Other markers, termed "low pressure" run off an input pressure of 400 psi or less depending on the marker. The mag is not one of these markers.

#2 there are two conflicting views on barrels and paint. Some people believe that a correct paint-to-barrel match is necessary for accurate shots. Mine(and other's) view is that paint-to-barrel match is only necessary for closed-bolt markers, and if you're willing to sacrifice a bit of efficiency, use a large bore barrel and don't worry about what size paint you're shooting.
That said, the JMJ I believe to be a pretty good barrel, I would try it out and see how it works for you before I would even think of upgrading. My friend just got one too, and for him, it was an upgrade.

#3 for tank placement, It's completely personal preference. Personally, I like it to be as back-heavy as possible. I hold it between my shoulder and my front hand, use my front hand to aim, and use my trigger hand to walk the trigger. I find that it's alot easier to deal with then you're not trying to hold the weight of the gun with your hands, but with your shoulder as much as possible. If you're worried about the weight, a remote line is an option. I've never used one, but I would think that unless you purchased a stock(so your shoulder would continue to offer stability) your accuracy would go down the tube...But I don't use a remote line. I have my tank on a rail, no drop forward at all.

[Drego]

Okay, I think you have a few preconcieved ideas that I'd like to correct.

#1. By itself, a regulator will not magically increase shots. All a regulator does is regulate air. It makes it come out at a specific(usually adjustable) pressure. Your tank has a regulator. It's set for 850 psi. Your Xvalve also has a regulator, set to whatever it needs to be set to to make the valve work. The Xvalve *NEEDS* around 800+ psi to operate. Putting another regulator on will decrease pressure, and possibly make your gun nonfunctional.
Other markers, termed "low pressure" run off an input pressure of 400 psi or less depending on the marker. The mag is not one of these markers.

#2 there are two conflicting views on barrels and paint. Some people believe that a correct paint-to-barrel match is necessary for accurate shots. Mine(and other's) view is that paint-to-barrel match is only necessary for closed-bolt markers, and if you're willing to sacrifice a bit of efficiency, use a large bore barrel and don't worry about what size paint you're shooting.
That said, the JMJ I believe to be a pretty good barrel, I would try it out and see how it works for you before I would even think of upgrading. My friend just got one too, and for him, it was an upgrade.

#3 for tank placement, It's completely personal preference. Personally, I like it to be as back-heavy as possible. I hold it between my shoulder and my front hand, use my front hand to aim, and use my trigger hand to walk the trigger. I find that it's alot easier to deal with then you're not trying to hold the weight of the gun with your hands, but with your shoulder as much as possible. If you're worried about the weight, a remote line is an option. I've never used one, but I would think that unless you purchased a stock(so your shoulder would continue to offer stability) your accuracy would go down the tube...But I don't use a remote line. I have my tank on a rail, no drop forward at all.

I greatly appreciate the info from all of you. I was under the misconception that paint shouldn't roll through a barrel as was the case with my Diablo Heat with this new marker and J&J barrel. I used to shoot a tippy and now everything has changed with the xmag. I do believe http://www.draxxus.com/TradeSecrets/BarrelFit_e.asp clarifies the conflicting views about paint to barrel matching that you mentioned and actually depends on what type of bolt and detent your marker uses along with bore size. I will be on the field tomorrow and I can't wait to use my new xmag. Thanks again!

[SR_matt]

well heres my collective knowlage in a compressed form about pait-barrel

perfect match (will not roll thru, but needs minimal pressure to push the ball through) is though of as the best match, this is the largest bore fit needed in a closed bolt gun to get consistant shots.

lose match (ball will roll thru) not always consistant, has the potential to cause more barrel breaks from the ball bouncing around but from my experances it really depends on the type of paint if this will happen. only open bolt guns can use the type of fit in a consistant way

tight fit (har to blow the ball thru) increases fps slightly, more consistant, but has the potental for more breaks due to the ball being slamed into the barrel or by being forced thru the barrel.

ive shot a cocker for the last 3 years and just started shooting mags. a cocker can use the tight fit very well since the force on the ball is spread out and teh psi dupmed on to the ball is lower but the mag is not as forgiving becasue of the operation.

if you use a paint that is not brittle i say you should try to get a tighter bore and that should give you better efficenty (since you can probably turn you main psi down some, at least from my experances.. note: at one point getting it to tight will slow the ball down some needing more air to push it out so you can only get so tight, but you will probably get to blender stage before you get to making it to tight)

im partial to the dye barels, and recently a 688 bore seems even big on a decent amount of paint so if you can pick up a UL or dye one pice for a decent price i say go for it (you might be able to get different UL backs that are 686, 688, 691, and 694 (anything other than 688 is harder to find now at least when i was looking for them)

for the weight issue, a 68 does feel ackward for me as well, you might want to look into a 45/45 (you get about teh same amount of shots with a 45/45 as a 68/3 in a smaller lighter package)

and the reg question seems to have been described and understood perfectly

tips and tricks, just remember if you break a lot of paint first check to see if its the paint (check by buying a new case of it not by bumming paint off a friend, went that rout and wasted so much time,air,cleaning,etc), you will have to swap out carriers after a little while, and the tech guy is always a very helpful and friendly individual .

i hope my rambeling helps


-matt

[SSP-SheiK]

Okay, I think you have a few preconcieved ideas that I'd like to correct.

#1. By itself, a regulator will not magically increase shots. All a regulator does is regulate air. It makes it come out at a specific(usually adjustable) pressure. Your tank has a regulator. It's set for 850 psi. Your Xvalve also has a regulator, set to whatever it needs to be set to to make the valve work. The Xvalve *NEEDS* around 800+ psi to operate. Putting another regulator on will decrease pressure, and possibly make your gun nonfunctional.
Other markers, termed "low pressure" run off an input pressure of 400 psi or less depending on the marker. The mag is not one of these markers.

#2 there are two conflicting views on barrels and paint. Some people believe that a correct paint-to-barrel match is necessary for accurate shots. Mine(and other's) view is that paint-to-barrel match is only necessary for closed-bolt markers, and if you're willing to sacrifice a bit of efficiency, use a large bore barrel and don't worry about what size paint you're shooting.
That said, the JMJ I believe to be a pretty good barrel, I would try it out and see how it works for you before I would even think of upgrading. My friend just got one too, and for him, it was an upgrade.

#3 for tank placement, It's completely personal preference. Personally, I like it to be as back-heavy as possible. I hold it between my shoulder and my front hand, use my front hand to aim, and use my trigger hand to walk the trigger. I find that it's alot easier to deal with then you're not trying to hold the weight of the gun with your hands, but with your shoulder as much as possible. If you're worried about the weight, a remote line is an option. I've never used one, but I would think that unless you purchased a stock(so your shoulder would continue to offer stability) your accuracy would go down the tube...But I don't use a remote line. I have my tank on a rail, no drop forward at all.

took the words right outta my mouth!


if you want to run remote... get an air through stock, and connect it via, asa nipple/quick disconnect piece. reg wont do squat as jenare stated above.

[Drego]

Actually, purchasing an aftermarket reg can do more harm then good, this is because that would mean you would be double regging the marker which could cause the marker to be starved of air.

a drop or rail is all about preference, i personally use a rail now.

I can tell you know that you will not be getting a whole lot of shots with a 68/3k, not a terrifyingly low amount, but not as much as you would probably want.

Welcome to the mag family

I spoke with a ref at the field and he said that some guys are putting as much as 1000 psi (max psi) into the valve. I know that the xvalve can handle between 800 - 1000 psi and AGD says it got the best performance from 850 psi. Does a higher psi input to the xvalve have any advantage like rof and if so, what sort of air setup recommendations for achieving that? I understand that with a higher psi, ball breaks may become the bigger issue.

[kruger]

The reason that people put a higher psi to their mag is to get faster RT from the gun. The RT will work at 850 psi, but at higher input pressures, the RT will react at a much faster rate. It is not unheard of to get 20+bps from this system, all mech. to boot too