I plan on SpyderMagging my Minimag. My mom is buying me a Retro Valve as a present for helping on the house we just sold. I have an Esp grip from my spyder, but I need to get an Uncapped board (links or suggestions please), New solenoid(20$), and a 45 Gram Microswitch (10$),I need the Ult (45$) and lastly I need Luke to work on my Esp so it will work on my Minimag (I have no idea about how much this costs). How much will this set me back? And will it be worth it?
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Originally posted by CONFIRMEDKILL
As you may? already know the RT valve will require milling to accept the ULT. I would suggest trying to find an X valve instead. -
I'd save up a bit of cash and do an electropnuematic frame instead of they spydermag, but thats just my taste. It's alot more costly (200+ depending on frame/board/etc) but you can basically get your mag ramping/do what ever you want.
Realistically you should plan to be set back atleast 150$ that way if there are issues you can deal with it efficiently. Tboards are probably your best bet (www.scenariodreams.com) in the way of a control board. Eyes and such can be installed (the rail makes for an easy channel to route them) if you want.Comment
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Originally posted by punkncat
or an emag valve. they're about the same price as an rt valve.Comment
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The t-board from scenario dreams is a great board for the ESP frame if you still decide to take this route. It can be set up with break or bounce beam eyes if you can rig that up on your mag too. There are also ramping chips and mode chips for the t-board, so you can set it up as you wish. You can try buying one used over on the Kingman forums, the people there were really friendly and willing to help you out with questions.Comment
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Well luke i think charges 100 and he will mod and give you directions how to install it
or you can buy my already modded spyderframe with t board
http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=210275feedback
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=848340
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=davidsimpson&item=-1&frompage=222
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Luke charges $100 and he does quality work. My Spydermag that he did rips holes in muppets' faces... or something like that.
A good board would either be the Tboard or Lucky Spitfire. Both have excellent customer service and are very high quality products. I have a Tboard in mine and I am going to go for the VerC (with PSP/NXL/CFOA/etc modes) next. Both boards are in the $50-75 range.
Ask your mom for an Emag valve. It will most likely not require milling for the ULT. A Retro valve will however.
I suggest also having Luke mill your body and rail for eyes and eye covers.
It will set you back between $200-250, but it's well worth it. Less than any other comparable electro upgrade for Mags!Comment
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I have a T-Board w/ 50g switch and an FBM delrin trigger if you want them. PM me.Autocockers are the greatest markers ever made.
~The greatest BACKUP markers to AUTOMAGS!!
Only temporary, get'n a new sig soon.Comment
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How much paint have you shot with that?Luke charges $100 and he does quality work. My Spydermag that he did rips holes in muppets' faces... or something like that.Comment
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I've shot about half a case in the backyard and then another two cases at the field. It works really well. Can't wait to get the VerC in it. I think I'm going to lower the dwell a little though. It's too high for ramping. I'm gonna try it at around 10-12ms instead of 20. Right now I'm about five hours away from the thing so I am sad. But in March I'm going home and goin to the field for like a week straight.Originally posted by lukeComment
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I can tell you the best and cheapest way, "Advice" (I had to do it myself)
Ok for the valve, They are right, the regular RT valve needs milling to fit the ULT,(needed)
Get one of the three they do not need milling 1. RT Pro 2. E-mag 3. X valve . Those wont need milling. Two about the board. I agree that scenario Dreams T board is the best. I went with the UTB because you can do much more fine tuning,(its tiny and can fire faster then the version C. If you are not good with electronics Defenitly go with the Tboard version C. The hardest thing will be modifying the mag sear to work with the spyder sear (requires no solenoid mods) You will need to (cut the bottom arm very short) then Weld a boot shaped piece of steel to mesh with the spyder sear (i sugjest buying a second sear) so you can switch back to mechanical grip if you get probs in the middle of a day. you will need to mill a small channel in the spyder grip where the mag sear rocks, so it can move. I did all this myself. (I had bought a rt valve that needed miling)
Price to make.
RT valve (I payed) $110 (no lvl 10 or ULT) but whole gun!
Tboardverson C - $60 (UTB $55 comes with eyes) saves you the need for lvl 10 (eyes work)
ULT= $50 mayby less somewhere
$240 for UTB W/Blue Break beam eyes, RT Valve, ULT, Sear mod, Body milling.
(this is with most work done myself) If you go with reg spyder board, expect to buy a lvl X kit
costing about $100 bought from agd (and valve tuned by them)
Buy an X valve if you dont plan on using eyes, it comes tuned W/ULT & lvl X
My RT with the UTB abd Break beam eyes is a sleaper, it shoots 20 bps with a wrath solenoid
It looks like a standard mag the way I have it, Till I start ripping.
. you will like it any way you slice it
Originally posted by CONFIRMEDKILLComment
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