ok, so those ugly metal brackets they put on the RT pro? well, i took them off. does anyone know where i can get some like, studs or spikes or something to fill in the holes with? just something temporary till i can get a new rail without those screw holes.
fillin in the holes
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Get some high polish screws to put in there, or you can get set screws to fill in the holes so you cant see the threading.
I always wanted to find small skulls to put on mine, but could never find any with small enough screws on the back
StygSometimes It's Good to be EVIL -
Originally posted by StygShoreGet some high polish screws to put in there, or you can get set screws to fill in the holes so you cant see the threading.
I always wanted to find small skulls to put on mine, but could never find any with small enough screws on the back
Styg
Old thread but I have to bump it because I have the same question. I want to fill in the holes on my rt pro rail and need some more ideas...is there anything I can melt into them that would be able to be sanded down flush to the rail? I would like to make it look as if there were never holes there if possible.RLTW Hoooahhh!!!

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RT ULE CUSTOM: ULE mainbody (Blue)/ X-valve/ Level 10 bolt/ Y-grip trigger frame (Brite black)/ hogue grips/ 32 degrees duckbill asa/ 68/4500 pure energy tank/ 12" j and j barrel/ 12 volt revvy with X-board
soon to come: dallara and logic e-frameComment
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Originally posted by sslecyk03Old thread but I have to bump it because I have the same question. I want to fill in the holes on my rt pro rail and need some more ideas...is there anything I can melt into them that would be able to be sanded down flush to the rail? I would like to make it look as if there were never holes there if possible.
Either buy a milled rail, have yours milled, or do what is discussed above.Comment
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It might be possible to get the holes filled using a mig/tig whatever welder. I've always wanted to try it but never got around to it.Comment
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Thanks, but I'm not going to buy a new rail just because I don't like screw holesOriginally posted by Papa_SmurfEither buy a milled rail, have yours milled, or do what is discussed above.
Thought about that but you'd still notice the screws because of the hex holes wouldn't you?Originally posted by Zone DrifterHome depot has some filler studs, they screw in flush with the rail using a hex wrench.
I'm looking more along the lines of what Ando is talking about, welding/soldering something in there and sanding it off.RLTW Hoooahhh!!!

TEAM FIRESTORM
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RT ULE CUSTOM: ULE mainbody (Blue)/ X-valve/ Level 10 bolt/ Y-grip trigger frame (Brite black)/ hogue grips/ 32 degrees duckbill asa/ 68/4500 pure energy tank/ 12" j and j barrel/ 12 volt revvy with X-board
soon to come: dallara and logic e-frameComment
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They make different types of aluminum wire for those welders. Not sure what the RT rails are made of (6061 I'm guessing) but I'm sure you can find something close to or the exact metal type.
I don't think it's going to look bad at all. Give it a acid wash and you won't notice it. Gloss black should be fine also.
Edit: Here's some reading.
I think doing a splash will work out bestLast edited by Ando; 01-20-2010, 02:01 AM.Comment
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If you aren't planning on getting a re-anno or anything like that - why not a black rubber plug? or a hardenning black wood filler - the type they use to fill nail holes in picture frames
Barring that, mashing some black crayon in the hole would do the trick, could be removed easy enough, and would be easy to make smooth by just running paper over it.
Styg
Black Epoxy
http://cgi.ebay.com/_W0QQcmdZViewIte...mZ170366923524
maybe something like this? ( they provide samples )
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Dude I'm just looking for options at this point, and right now your first response is the most laughableOriginally posted by Papa_SmurfYou're going to fill a hole by mig welding it full of puddle?!
It doesn't work that way...
Ando and Styg, I appreciate the help guys, the rail is raw so I do plan on getting it re-anoed after I fill the holes. I will look into the aluminum wire, thanks.RLTW Hoooahhh!!!

TEAM FIRESTORM
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RT ULE CUSTOM: ULE mainbody (Blue)/ X-valve/ Level 10 bolt/ Y-grip trigger frame (Brite black)/ hogue grips/ 32 degrees duckbill asa/ 68/4500 pure energy tank/ 12" j and j barrel/ 12 volt revvy with X-board
soon to come: dallara and logic e-frameComment
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That's what I was going to say KCombs.... get a good idea of what the AL alloy is and try and find bolts that are the same. Screw them in, the cut them off, and sand down smooth.
Since it's already raw, it won't be noticable and may not show too much after anno, IF the alloys match.
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