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  • madcrisis
    Registered User
    • Nov 2005
    • 256

    #1

    why?

    why is it so hard to tune a level 10? and usually when i tune mine correctlyi dont have my reactive trigger anymore. is it a break in period or is itr like that all the time?
  • BigEvil
    www.BigEvilOnline.com

    • Feb 2005
    • 9333

    #2
    Originally posted by madcrisis
    why is it so hard to tune a level 10? and usually when i tune mine correctlyi dont have my reactive trigger anymore. is it a break in period or is itr like that all the time?

    Ugh...

    Send it to me.. Ill take care of it for you.

    Comment

    • madcrisis
      Registered User
      • Nov 2005
      • 256

      #3
      no i can do it its just i usually have to change the spring and when im not on the smallest i lose my reactivity

      Comment

      • SR_matt
        Santa Sucks
        • Jun 2006
        • 1072

        #4
        thats becasue the reactivity is due to the air rushing in to an empty (or mostly empty) chamber and pushes the pin down. by using a harder spring more psi stays in the chamber so less psi differance needs to be restored (at least thats what im pretty sure is causing it). have you chronoed it yet? when you swap the springs and take it back up to full velecioty you should gain it back
        -matt

        Comment

        • Tao
          Registered User
          • Jan 2006
          • 834

          #5
          Originally posted by SR_matt
          thats becasue the reactivity is due to the air rushing in to an empty (or mostly empty) chamber and pushes the pin down. by using a harder spring more psi stays in the chamber so less psi differance needs to be restored (at least thats what im pretty sure is causing it). have you chronoed it yet? when you swap the springs and take it back up to full velecioty you should gain it back
          -matt
          I thought that the lvl 10 wasn't supposed to affect the reactive trigger though....

          Comment

          • madcrisis
            Registered User
            • Nov 2005
            • 256

            #6
            Originally posted by SR_matt
            thats becasue the reactivity is due to the air rushing in to an empty (or mostly empty) chamber and pushes the pin down. by using a harder spring more psi stays in the chamber so less psi differance needs to be restored (at least thats what im pretty sure is causing it). have you chronoed it yet? when you swap the springs and take it back up to full velecioty you should gain it back
            -matt
            i understand what ur saying but the only time i get reactivity is with the shortest spring

            Comment

            • BigEvil
              www.BigEvilOnline.com

              • Feb 2005
              • 9333

              #7
              Originally posted by madcrisis
              no i can do it its just i usually have to change the spring and when im not on the smallest i lose my reactivity
              Send me your marker, tank and lvl 10 parts and I will make it as reactive as you want it to be :-)

              Comment

              • neppo1345
                I Will Eat Your Children..
                • Oct 2005
                • 1913

                #8
                It's really not that hard...

                However it does require a knowledge of what exactly you're doing to the gun when you change out shims, carriers, and springs.

                If you really want to be able to tune a level 10, I suggest you commit a couple of hours to understanding how a mag ticks.

                Don't say you know how it works already, because if you did you wouldn't be having this problem.

                This isn't meant to offend you in any way, I'm just kinda being blunt.

                Comment

                • madcrisis
                  Registered User
                  • Nov 2005
                  • 256

                  #9
                  i never saied i knew how it worked i just said i could tune it but the problem i i have to tune it everytime then when i get it working correctly it usually has no reactivity. like yesterday i was using the longest spring and had my velocity all the way down and i was shooting 380 so i went to the shortest spring and i had reactivity and began to chop (i dont know what speed i was shooting no time to chrono) so i put in the medium spring and went out had like 3 chops and i think i was shooting under 300. i want to find just one thing that works all the time my tippmann always works and from what i hear most others mags are like that too. now what i want to know is if all mags are different or what works for one person will work for everyone.

                  also on a side not is there one complete guide on everything you need to know about a mag?

                  Comment

                  • Army
                    Moderator of DOOOOOOOOMMM!

                    • Oct 2000
                    • 5785

                    #10
                    Originally posted by SR_matt
                    thats becasue the reactivity is due to the air rushing in to an empty (or mostly empty) chamber and pushes the pin down. by using a harder spring more psi stays in the chamber so less psi differance needs to be restored (at least thats what im pretty sure is causing it). have you chronoed it yet? when you swap the springs and take it back up to full velecioty you should gain it back
                    -matt
                    The on/off pin is pushed down by the unregulated air from the tank, NOT what is in the air chamber. The pin is pushed long before the air chamber is charged.

                    Trigger is pulled...air chamber dumps. Release trigger...air chamber fills.

                    What you are experiencing, is a harder trigger pull due to the spring tension/bolt against the sear. The larger the spring, the more pressure against the trigger to overcome the tension holding the bolt back.

                    Which is why most people just use the small or the middle spring, and leave the big spring alone.

                    Comment

                    • SR_matt
                      Santa Sucks
                      • Jun 2006
                      • 1072

                      #11
                      how does unregulated air push the pin down the the on/off sits after the reg. i understand that air in the chamber does not push it down but the air passing by it to the chamber is what forces it down. the air has already been reged but the higher pressure being pushed into the reg the faster it goes in there fore it pushes it harder, thus the RT. thats how it has been explained to me and thats how i logicaly understand it. looking at the way the valve is built i dont see how ulregged air can push on the pin when its after the reg.

                      -matt

                      Comment

                      • Army
                        Moderator of DOOOOOOOOMMM!

                        • Oct 2000
                        • 5785

                        #12
                        Originally posted by SR_matt
                        how does unregulated air push the pin down the the on/off sits after the reg. i understand that air in the chamber does not push it down but the air passing by it to the chamber is what forces it down. the air has already been reged but the higher pressure being pushed into the reg the faster it goes in there fore it pushes it harder, thus the RT. thats how it has been explained to me and thats how i logicaly understand it. looking at the way the valve is built i dont see how ulregged air can push on the pin when its after the reg.

                        -matt
                        The top of the pin extends into the inbound air passage..before it gets regged by the rear of the valve. The air then returns to the on/off below the head of the pin.

                        Pull trigger, the pin rises into the heavy pressure passage...pressure then tries to push it back out, resulting in the RT effect.

                        Comment

                        • Sprye Bane's Comm NCO
                          Registered User
                          • Feb 2007
                          • 15

                          #13
                          no complete guide you say?

                          I FOUND ONE!!

                          heres the complete guide.

                          Look at the top left of the screen you are looking at now..then go down to resources...thats the third one to the right now...There ya go!

                          lots of other very important Mag and paintball in general related information there too.

                          hope it helps...if not, send it to BE.

                          /he will seriously tune it.
                          //but charge you return shipping ;-)

                          Comment

                          • madcrisis
                            Registered User
                            • Nov 2005
                            • 256

                            #14
                            thanks but i read that all last noght and tuned my level 10. i have 2 screw in the thumbscrew pretty tight with an allen wrench and turn velocity all the way down and bam no more leak.

                            Comment

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