What are the differneces in automags?

[JG2790]

Don't forget the PTP Micro E-Mag. Basically a Micromag with an E-Mag frame. Uses a combined rail and body.

-Jan

[mudpie]

Wow, so much information to digest. So I'm most interested in the micromag for its compactness and simplicity. But I'm an information/research junkie, so I must know more!
Much obliged to anybody who can answer more questions?
Is that a powerfeed I see in the pic?
Can it accept a Level 10 anti-chop?
Any pitfalls with the micromag compared to a minimag in terms of reliability, serviceability, etc.?

Thanks! I love this forum!

[Nick E]

1: Yes, that's a powerfeed. Also note the wierd looking thing on the side? I think that's an early detent.
2: Yes, it can accept level 10/lvlx. I think every AGD marker can(even original r/ts) except for field rentals and sydarms.
3: Not really. The tolerances on micromags are notoriously shady. Not really bad, but it can be annoying when you need an on/off pin that's shorter or longer because your rail is taller or shorter. They also tend to be more expensive, though just about as reliable.

PS: One thing, even if you antisiphon and regulate, you still won't be able to run co2 on a rt/emag/xvalve well. It's possible, but it doesn't work well and is hell on your o rings, no matter what you send it through first.

[Cryptkeeper]

is there a differance in accuracy

I was wandering if you use N2 in all the guns is there a differance in accuracy between the classic vs RT vs emag vs Xmag assumeing all else is the same all but the valve. or is the differance only in the rate of fire

[C.J.]

I was wandering if you use N2 in all the guns is there a differance in accuracy between the classic vs RT vs emag vs Xmag assumeing all else is the same all but the air and valve. or is the differance only in the rate of fire

You're going to get a bunch of people telling you HPA is more accurate.

Accuracy is a function of consistency which is how your gas source will affect your marker

HPA is not inherently more consistent than CO2. HPA IS more consistent than POORLY MANAGED CO2.

If you know how to handle CO2, which means using anti-siphon and putting a regulator or two between the CO2 source and the AIR valve, it CAN be made as consistent as HPA.

I've done it, on two markers now. Both are the most accurate markers I've ever shot - ball on ball to 75'+, hitting masks at 150'. I can put a ball through a 2-inch crack in a bunker on the first try, running anti-siphon CO2 with either double PPS Stabilizers (Blazer) or a single PPS Stab' into the Classic Automag AIR valve regulator.

The reason CO2 got the bad rap was a case of people not understanding it. HPA is easy: fill bottle, screw it on, go. CO2 is liquid in compressed state. If you don't know what you're doing with it, you'll get liquid into the marker and you get inconsistent velocity which leads to poor accuracy.

[phizz]

warp right mag with x-valve

my old z-body mag with a classic rail cocker threaded body that gives you a flatline effect

sydarm. The agd handgun. Twist lock barrel

minimag body classic rail. Classic 68 valve

x-mag I sold it! interchangable breech, cocker threaded

dallara body(right)cocker threaded and karta bodied (left) emag. both of which I sold too

smae markers switched around

[phizz]

my first emag basically your plain old emag, emag valve lvl10, twist lock body

karta (cocker thread) with rt pro rail

q-bow with hyperframe

q-bow without hyperframe. Tac one body, with a longbow stock

micromag unibody no need for a rail, cocker threaded

[[email protected]]

an Rt ULE AKA Rt Pro

My (Rt-ULE)Mag with X-Valve:
X-valve w/lvl ten bolt
Chrome ULE Body
DW Dallara Rail
Intelliframe
Viperblade Pro Trigger by RPG
Sp All American 14"
CP On/Off ASA
Dye Sticky3 Grips

[gruntbull]

Remember the first time you were shot with an Automag? Mine was in 1995... aw that sucked (I got hit in the groin)

Anyways...
Great markers.

Classic- Old school, think bare bones.
Mini- old school but shorter
Micro- not as old but still old and shorter and smaller (integrated Rail/body combo)
E-Mag Electromag Battery pack as a foregrip, Electric Hybrid or Mechanical operation at the flip of a switch uses magnetic HALLS (correct me if I am wrong on the lingo) switch
XMag CNC E-Mag few were made

Some other notables:
SFL E-Mag Shocktech made these
Tac-One (body with Rail Integration System- Pictanny Rails)
Logic, Rogue, Tunaman, Cerebus, and a few others make aftermarket parts that are used.
Level 10 or LVL 10 or LVL X bolt, there is a video of someone using their tongue to show how light it is on the ball before firing... its like a small spool valve on the bolt that you adjust so that minimal pressure is forcing the bolt forward until the ball is completely chambered into the barrel (who needs eyes with a Level 10???) SWEET IDEA!
X Valve- HPA only HIGH PRESSURE around 800-900 is best (some even say more I believe)
Classic Valve- C02 or HPA high pressure is best

That may help a little, if I am wrong on something please correct gents.

[Lenny]

So can you put a aftermarket E frame on a RT??

Sure you can! Automags are one of the most easily modifiable guns out there.

Now, there are a couple of ways to do this:
1. Buy E/X-Mag lowers
2. Buy a Hyperframe
3. Get ahold of a Devilframe or Logic electro frame
4. Modify a Spyder frame to fit (or send it to Luke, he's famous for these mods)
5. Build yourself an EP frame (using a compatible board, or using an Ion board without the capacitor; Pneumagger and a few other can do this mod for you)
6. Build a pneumag (okay, so pneumags aren't electro, but they offer a VERY light and short pull comparable to electros; Pneumagger, CyberRave, and a few other do this mod also.)

Some of these are parts specific, though. E/X-Mags can run using a Classic valve, but not with satisfactory results; you'll want an RT valve of some sort with an EMag on/off or else you may run into issues.

The Hyperframe needs a bit of tweaking so it wont chew up the bolt. Either a tuned RT/ULT or a Hyper on/off.

The Devil, Logic, EP mods, and converted Spyder frames require a tuned ULT to function correctly. If you are using a Classic valve, you will need an RT on/off (RT on/off offer a lighter trigger pull than Classics without the fear of excessive short stroking).

The pneumag will operate using any valve or on/off, but, the heavier the on/off, the heavier the trigger pull weight. This is because the LPR will need to be putting out a higher pressure to trip the sear. Even with a heavy on/off, the trigger pull will still be obnoxiously light.

Remember the first time you were shot with an Automag? Mine was in 1995... aw that sucked (I got hit in the groin)

Dude! Me too! But in '98 for me. The first time I ever played, there were these two real cool black guys lookin' all rasta with thier dreadlocks and tie-died camo (seriously, camo colored ti-die shirts) and rockin' MiniMags. I had never played before and didn't think to wear a cup. First game, whack! Right in the gonads.

That sucked.